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2022 255XD Audio Upgrade Project

Trucon01

Well-Known Member
Messages
47
Reaction score
59
Points
57
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
255XD
Boat Length
25
Even though the 255XD has the upgraded wet sounds system, I felt it was lacking bass with just 1 under-powered subwoofer. So I grabbed the following:
  1. JL Audio 600/1
  2. 2 x m6-10IB-S-FmTi-i-4
  3. 4 x 1 inch spacer
  4. 2 x 1/2 inch spacer
* Spacers are from trimmedoutinc.com and are a perfect fit for these subs! JL Audio 10” M3/M6 Subwoofer Spacer Ring - Trimmed Out Inc

One of the only places to put these are on the drivers side, below the cup holders, but the subwoofers are about 6 inches deep but there is only about 4 inches of clearance between the fiberglass in the cabin to the hull, so I need spacers...

I also made an amp mount out of some PVC trim board from Home Depot (Glued edges, brackets in the back and then some U channel on both sides for extra strength. Here are some progress pics so far. I'll post more tomorrow when I hopefully can finish it up...
 

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@Trucon01 Where did you find a big hole size like that?
Is it the correct size for the sub holes?
 
All done.. just need to tidy up the wires under the console!

@212s I ordered a 9in hole saw off Amazon. I also ordered an 8.85in but the 9 inch was almost perfect. I used it in reverse until I got some slight gooves in the fiberglass then went forward to cut the hole. Came out perfect
 

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I am planning on adding 2 subs in same location. Did you move key switch because you did not want subs back behind cooler area or is there other things that kept you from putting subs further back?
 
So 2 things..

1. I wanted the cooler to be able to be there and not interfere with the subs
2. I wanted a decent amount of space between the subs so there wasn't just a sliver of fiberglass, thus a weak spot.

Moving the switch was really easy, just had to cut the 4 wires and extend each one.
 
I also made an amp mount out of some PVC trim board from Home Depot (Glued edges, brackets in the back and then some U channel on both sides for extra strength. Here are some progress pics so far. I'll post more tomorrow when I hopefully can finish it up...

How are you attaching the PVC trim board ? I see the bolts/washers but not clear.
 
How are you attaching the PVC trim board ? I see the bolts/washers but not clear.
So the board is 3/4 thick. There are about 3-4 spots on that wall that are backed by wood. I measure those out in the board and then recessed the screws / washers so the amps could mount flat.
 
So the board is 3/4 thick. There are about 3-4 spots on that wall that are backed by wood. I measure those out in the board and then recessed the screws / washers so the amps could mount flat.
Makes sense, thanks for the info.
 
So how does it sound, did the 2 subs help? Were you able to split the factory signal without adding anything additional?
 
So how does it sound, did the 2 subs help? Were you able to split the factory signal without adding anything additional?
Oh my yes. It's night and day different, almost too much when it's turned all the way up, luckily I have the JL volume knob to where I can control the sub output independently.

As for the signal, I just tee'd off the factory channel 5-6 into the new amp. I believe it was the red/black and white/white with black stripe from the factory harness. Pretty simple as the wires are labeled with some blue lettering with the channel number and "Sub" on them.

Let me know if you have other questions
 
So the board is 3/4 thick. There are about 3-4 spots on that wall that are backed by wood. I measure those out in the board and then recessed the screws / washers so the amps could mount flat.

What’s the possibility that you wrote those measurements down somewhere and still have it? I’m in the process of mounting new amps, but my boat isn’t here to measure that out at the moment and it’s slowing me down.
 
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