Abyss Lights Install Video??

[Geiger41]

Well I have ordered 2 and am scared as shit to do the install. Has anyone made or know of an install video? If not is anyone who is good at this willing to record the process so all we non-crafty people can do it ?? Info on supplies/procedure will help a lot of us out.

 

[0627Devildog]

Looks like you just signed your self up to be the guinea pig. . . . I look forward to your video install. = )

 

[txav8r]

Come on over...this is a piece of cake! The hardest part will be getting into the clean out tray and reinstalling it. Send me a light to install, I will make you a video! Seriously, you need a switch, run wire to the switch, from switch to light, and a wire from ground to the light. Deciding where you want the switch, and the route through the boat to it is up to you. If it doest come with a fuse, it needs to be fused too. Remove all the panels to get access, drill the transom for the line and screw holes, bevel them (drilling in reverse) so they don't crack, pull your light cable through the center hole, use life caulk around the moat ring around the cable, in the 3 mounting holes you drilled, then place the fixture on the transom and have someone pull the cable through the hole from the back, install screws. Now go back up in the boat from behind and caulk liberally the screw holes and wire. Your done on the transom. Extend the wire to your switch and ground, and connect the switch to positive for power. Your done!

 

[maboat]

hows this?

 

[txav8r]

Don't caulk the way they did in the video. Only the screw holes and the small donut around the wire get caulk. Abyss lights are designed to have cooling water behind the fixture.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

First test them. I can't tell you how many products that I've gone to install that were bad out of the box.

 

[0627Devildog]

Come on over...this is a piece of cake! The hardest part will be getting into the clean out tray and reinstalling it. Send me a light to install, I will make you a video! Seriously, you need a switch, run wire to the switch, from switch to light, and a wire from ground to the light. Deciding where you want the switch, and the route through the boat to it is up to you. If it doest come with a fuse, it needs to be fused too. Remove all the panels to get access, drill the transom for the line and screw holes, bevel them (drilling in reverse) so they don't crack, pull your light cable through the center hole, use life caulk around the moat ring around the cable, in the 3 mounting holes you drilled, then place the fixture on the transom and have someone pull the cable through the hole from the back, install screws. Now go back up in the boat from behind and caulk liberally the screw holes and wire. Your done on the transom. Extend the wire to your switch and ground, and connect the switch to positive for power. Your done!

This is TERRIBLE advice, @txav8r obviously has ZERO mod experience . . . . He forgot the MOST IMPORTANT STEP OF ANY MOD JOB. . . . .Never start a project like this without a BEER.

 

[BoaterGuy]

I have started my install. I have it mounted in the transom. Didn't have to remove the clean out tray. When I go back and finish this week I'll see what I can do.

I'm wiring mine to my courtesy light switch in the helm.

 

[txav8r]

This is TERRIBLE advice, @txav8r obviously has ZERO mod experience . . . . He forgot the MOST IMPORTANT STEP OF ANY MOD JOB. . . . .Never start a project like this without a BEER.

The helper doesn't buy the beer!

 

[0627Devildog]

I have started my install. I have it mounted in the transom. Didn't have to remove the clean out tray. When I go back and finish this week I'll see what I can do.

I'm wiring mine to my courtesy light switch in the helm.

Is your courtesy light switch a direct 12v connection? Or does it pwr a relay?

 

[BoaterGuy]

Is your courtesy light switch a direct 12v connection? Or does it pwr a relay?

I don't know I haven't gotten that far yet. I'll let you know when I get back to the boat to finish.

 

[MikeyL]

[QUOTE="txav8r, post: 27462, member: 4]"The helper doesn't buy the beer!"[/QUOTE]
Not unless, of course, he's either a Moderator, or Staff Member, in which case they CAN afford it, unlike us peons.

 

[0627Devildog]

I don't know I haven't gotten that far yet. I'll let you know when I get back to the boat to finish.

If it hits a relay just make sure your picking up power on the right side of the relay .

 

[Geiger41]

Looks like @RobA get first dibs on the install video record lol

 

[Geiger41]

Curious as to all the "panels" that be removed ?? What panels and where?

 

[txav8r]

You probably don't have to remove panels to fish the transducer cable through. The reason to remove it, and this is dependent on what model and year boat that you have, is so you can finish sealing the screws and line from inside. I can see that it would be easy to reach (I think) on my 240, but my 230 was not easy to reach from the inspection ports. And my stock transducer and speedo line was globbed with silicone and both were leaking. I could not clean those up or adequately reseal them through the inspection ports. So removing the clean out tray was an easier thing to do that not getting them sealed back up. It was funny too, the bilge stayed dry every time out...unless we lounged on the swim deck. That extra weight on the swim deck pushed the stern down enough to cause water to leak into those openings. Any screw or hole you put through needs to be sealed from inside too. You may find that running the transducer cable from the engine compartment forward, is easier too, if you remove the floor over the fuel tank. If yours isn't removable, then you have to go around the floor more than likely. Those are the compartments I was referring to if that is what your asking about @geiger41 .