Anode end-all?

[CrankyGypsy]

i did a manifold change on both engines because there was some obvious internal deterioration (eating away of the water channels) i've attributed to salt corrosion. the previous owner stated he used Salt-Away after every trip - though i'm questioning if it was done that evening or a few days later. there's a few posts on this subject, but i'm still confused. i'm looking for some definitive, end-all answers:

1) are all three of the boat anodes (nozzle, ride plate, internal engine) the same composition? @Cobra Jet Steering LLC has said the nozzle anode is magnesium (intended for fresh water). if they are the same, then looking at the info below, it seems Yamaha intended their boats to be used "strictly" in fresh water

(from defender.com)

• Zinc Alloy Anodes = Salt water only
  • Not recommended for use in fresh water
  • Alloy is manufactured to meet or exceed US Military Specification (MIL-A-18001K)
• Aluminum Alloy Anodes = Salt or Brackish water
  • Not recommended for use in fresh water
  • Proven to last longer than zinc due to increased capacity
  • Alloy is manufactured to meet or exceed US Military Specification (MIL-A-24779(SH))
• Magnesium Alloy Anodes = Fresh water only
  • Not recommended for use in salt or brackish water
  • The only alloy proven to protect your boat in fresh water

* It is not recommended to use magnesium anodes in salt or brackish water. The result may be an accelerated corrosion rate, which may leave you with no anode protection in a short period of time and damage the metal parts of your boat.

note: MIL-A-24779 anodes contain Aluminum with small amounts of Zinc and Indium (the zinc and indium prevent the aluminum from forming it's protective barrier, allowing it to corrode faster than the aluminum part it is connected to).

2) what is the best anode for OUR boats in: a) salt water; b) fresh water; c) all around
3) you don't want to mix anodes - so if we convert one anode, shouldn't we be converting the other two (nozzle, ride plate, internal engine)?
4) if so, has anyone found a non-OEM option for the internal engine anode? if there is no option, would it be wiser to remove it if primarily in salt water?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Quote:"* It is not recommended to use magnesium anodes in salt or brackish water. The result may be an accelerated corrosion rate, which may leave you with no anode protection in a short period of time and damage the metal parts of your boat."

They are saying that the anode will deteriorate faster and disappear, thus leaving you with "no anode protection".

So, salt water boaters should switch out the anodes on the drives but finding ones for the motors may be difficult and in my opinion unneeded.

Remember that our boats are trailer/lift boats and do not live in the corrosive environment 24/7. Anyone who wet slips for extended times with stray current nearby is at the highest risk.

 

[christopherglenn]

We prefer to run aluminum for non fresh water, and mag for fresh water. If you are wet slipped you need a "fish type anode" (think soap/anode on a rope). West marine has a grouper anode, it is zinc, and as I said aluminum and mag are preferred. In some areas the epa is starting to notice zinc contamination of the water, so on the industrial side, we try to avoid it.
Mag in salt water will corrode like an alka seltzer tablet, and over polarize the aluminum parts on the boat, causing alkali damage to them. Don't run mag in salt water any longer then you have to.

 

[Kross]

anyone have a link to buy aluminum or zincs for our boats?

- Kross