Troy JK
Jet Boat Addict
- Messages
- 137
- Reaction score
- 183
- Points
- 102
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2020
- Boat Model
- 242X E-Series
- Boat Length
- 24
Thanks again to mark west, I definitely felt safer knowing I could follow someone’s step by step instructions. I even had the IPad by the boat for reference. ?
Even tho I suck with computers, There are a cpl ideas I had that may help with this job. One thing is that I found what might be an easier route for the wires, both work, I just didn’t want to mess with the stereo wires. I had the clean-out access panel out to seal it and happened to see that there is a hole right above the starboard exhaust through the rear of the engine bay. There are a couple wires already run through there, one is for the transducer. So I ran my actuator wire into the engine bay then through the starboard storage. Had my son inside the console where he reached the wires as I pushed them through a gap at the front of the starboard storage compartment. Done. Didn’t remove the rear stereo control or use a fish tape, just a handful of ty-wraps.
I also modified my [HASH=5736]#14x1[/HASH]-1/4 screws. The shaft (without the threads) of The [HASH=5768]#14s[/HASH] are about 3/16” and they recommend a 3/16 bit. That sounds too tight so I wanted to relieve them slightly. I used a thin cut-off wheel on a side grinder to make a relief cut to help cut threads.
I used a countersink tool to center my hoes. The #14 screw is nearly the same size as the hole and doesn’t leave much room for error. I removed the 1/8 pilot bit and set screw, held the tool into the hole and ran a longer 1/8 bit through with the drill. Then drill to 3/16 and tapered the hole to remove gelcoat.
I used 3m 2 sided tape to hold the 2’ level while I mounted the tabs. Then I laid a 1/2” drill bit on the level to mark the spot for the upper actuator mount.
Also, I used a flapper wheel to take all the sharp edges off of the tabs to minimize foot wounds. Those tabs have some seriously sharp edges.
I mounted the controller in the same spot as mark, looks factory ?
Even tho I suck with computers, There are a cpl ideas I had that may help with this job. One thing is that I found what might be an easier route for the wires, both work, I just didn’t want to mess with the stereo wires. I had the clean-out access panel out to seal it and happened to see that there is a hole right above the starboard exhaust through the rear of the engine bay. There are a couple wires already run through there, one is for the transducer. So I ran my actuator wire into the engine bay then through the starboard storage. Had my son inside the console where he reached the wires as I pushed them through a gap at the front of the starboard storage compartment. Done. Didn’t remove the rear stereo control or use a fish tape, just a handful of ty-wraps.
I also modified my [HASH=5736]#14x1[/HASH]-1/4 screws. The shaft (without the threads) of The [HASH=5768]#14s[/HASH] are about 3/16” and they recommend a 3/16 bit. That sounds too tight so I wanted to relieve them slightly. I used a thin cut-off wheel on a side grinder to make a relief cut to help cut threads.
I used a countersink tool to center my hoes. The #14 screw is nearly the same size as the hole and doesn’t leave much room for error. I removed the 1/8 pilot bit and set screw, held the tool into the hole and ran a longer 1/8 bit through with the drill. Then drill to 3/16 and tapered the hole to remove gelcoat.
I used 3m 2 sided tape to hold the 2’ level while I mounted the tabs. Then I laid a 1/2” drill bit on the level to mark the spot for the upper actuator mount.
Also, I used a flapper wheel to take all the sharp edges off of the tabs to minimize foot wounds. Those tabs have some seriously sharp edges.
I mounted the controller in the same spot as mark, looks factory ?
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