Catching this one up just in case it might help someone later.
To replace the original bilge pump plastic fitting (using a metal one:
Blowsion. Bilge Fitting Straight ), mine on a 242 Limited S was behind the shower tank on the STBD side, just aft of the the seating compartment behind the helm chair. So I took off the large plastic circular access plate inside the engine compartment on the STBD side so I could remove the two hoses from the top rear of the shower tank. Then I crawled into the seating compartment behind the helm and removed the hose on the front of the shower tank just at the pump. You'll see it mounted a just inboard and at the forward edge of the shower tank. Then removed the two screws holding the clamp/bracket that goes from front to rear of the tank over the center of it and just lifted that clamp/bracket up and pulled the shower tank forward and out of the compartment. Once the shower tank is out, you can clearly see the plastic bilge fitting and a vent fitting just forward of it (which was one of the two rear top hoses you disconnected earlier). Loosen the hose clamp, undo the nut on the back side of the plastic bilge fitting and its ready to come out of the hole from the outside of the boat (mine was loose already so I just poked it through the hole easily).
Before selecting sealant and putting new metal bilge fitting from outside into the hole, I made a template of the hole in respect to the bumper guard just above it (or what ever that is called) so I could make a hole the same distance from it just further back for the second bilge pump fitting I was putting in as well. I then used some 4200 and pushed the new metal fitting into the original bilge hole and went inside to put on the metal nut and tighten it down. Just use enough 4200 to do the job, cause you're going to have to clean up even more of it after you tighten it with a wrench anyways. I used acetone to clean up the pressed out extra 4200 once all tight. Then reconnect your bilge hose and reverse steps to put everything back together.
Second bilge pump fitting: There was a carpeted divider board just after the shower tank, and no room to put in the second bilge fitting and hose for me. So I removed the rear STBD speaker in the very back to see the other side of the divider board and then used the stencil I created from the first part above and picked a spot so that inside it would be just behind the speaker but not too far away from the first bilge fitting, all while missing that divider board. I used painters tape and with a 1" forester bit I ran my drill backwards until I was through the gelcoat, and then fwd to cut through the fiberglass till all the way through. I used my dremel ( with this drum attachment:
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Mandrel-Sanding-Bands-430/dp/B0035PZ34U/ref=sr_1_49?crid=32DSEMROQV41R&keywords=dremel+sanding+drum&qid=1651629667&sprefix=dremel+sanding+drum,aps,86&sr=8-49&th=1 ) for like 2-3 seconds (maybe) with a barrel sanding wheel to smooth out a couple loose fibers and again used 4200 to seal the 2nd metal bilge pump fitting into the hull. I bought reinforced 3/4" tubing (semi clear) I got from hardware store and SS hose clamp to finish it off. The other end of the hose went down into the very rear bilge where your drain plug is at the back of the boat.
2nd bilge pump: I used a Rule 40A Rule-A-Matic Plus float switch (
Rule 40A Rule-A-Matic Plus Bilge Pump Float Switch, 12, 24 or 32 Volt, Moisture Tight Seals , White , Small : Sports & Outdoors ) so I wouldn't have to worry about debris getting under the float and a 800GPH bilge pump I got from Academy sports nearby for the pump (
Shoreline Marine 800 GPH Bilge Pump | Academy ). 3/4" hose fitting on pump.
Mounting: This took me a bit to figure out without drilling or screwing anything into the fiberglass for these two items.
The pump I used 3/4" cutting board off of Amazon (same as marine board material, only $20 for a big board -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079TD46RL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and cut to fit with countersink holes to match the two bolts that come through the bottom of the bilge on the Port side from outside bracket that's under the port jet, and then used a SS washer and SS Nylon lock washer to tighten through the 3/4" board to make a vertical mounting point about 6-7 inches long, and about 3-4 inches tall. Smaller version of drill bit I used (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5COI5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 ) This is where I mounted the bottom screen from the bilge pump and when done just clicked the bilge pump into the bottom screen that was mounted to this board. Very nice, and if I have to change to another bilge pump/style I just reach down and unscrew it and mount the next one up - again without drilling anything into the fiberglass. (I later used up another portion of that marine board to put a 3/4" riser ring in the jet plug area...but that is another upgrade idea I got from this site - Oh, and I've still got some more marine board pieces left to make future mounts!)
The float switch I got another 1/4" cutting board, yes from Amazon (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W4OC80/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 ), for like $7 and cut it to nearly a square centering the float valve on the nearly square board. I took two SS screws and mounted the float valve to the 1/4" board making sure the screws where flush on the bottom side of the board (dremel works great for cutting off screws flush -
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-EZ406-02-Cut-Off-Mandrel-Cutting/dp/B000FBLRVA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2A7TNMOXBD28U&keywords=dremel+metal+cutting+wheel&qid=1651629905&sprefix=dremel+metal+cutting+wheel,aps,98&sr=8-6 ). I then took 4200 and since the bottom of the 242 in the very back isn't flat, I put a line of 4200 on both bottom edges (port/stbd) and pushed it just forward of the pump and kept it centered on the very bottom.
Power to 2nd bilge pump: I used Weld Mount AT-5 (Ebay 30 pack best price) for the 12AWG tinned electrical wire I routed to Port side up to batteries with a 5amp fuse right at the battery and directly connected to my starting battery. I pulled the rear port speakers to be able to reach in easier to put these mounts in with epoxy. 24 hours for all of this to cure along with putting in another 3/4" marine board (still had plenty left over from Amazon purchase mentioned earlier) and mounted a strip left of centerline just inside the lip on the rear deck by the jet plugs (cover was removed for easy access) so I could mount some 12v positive and negative posts with covers. That way the wiring that came with the float valve and pump I terminated right on these pos/neg posts. Won't have to mess with wiring again if I swap out the float switch or the pump later on, just re-terminate to these posts and done. Posts I used were these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P2Y5XJH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I water tested it and it works like a champ! In reality, the 2nd bilge pump is now the primary and factory the secondary due to the second one being lower and furthest to the rear of the boat now. 2nd one is hard wired with float to actuate, and factory I'll always leave on when running so should be good to go where I've always got at least one of them ready to actuate at any time.
