• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Bilge and Dry Storage

AuburnVFR

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
86
Reaction score
151
Points
112
Location
Auburn, AL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
19
I am trying to figure out how to keep the rear storage compartments dry on a 2016 SX190. I keep it on a trailer, but the old shipping cover leaks when it rains and I find standing water in the rear compartments. I am waiting for a new cover, but at some point they will all start leaking. The cupholders are plugged and the transom and internal compartment plugs are open. I have several inches of water in the ski locker even with the plug open, but no signs of water in the bilge at the transom. The bilge pump in the engine compartment seems to drain the standing water from the ski locker, but it seems crazy to have to keep the battery/bilge pump on when trailered.

Am I correct in assuming that this water is leaking into the rear "dry" storage compartments?
Can I seal something to stop it from entering the storage area?
Is there a trick in getting the water into the bilge where it actually drains out?
Is there a non-cycling automatic bilge pump that fits where the OEM one is? Since the base sits below the floor of the engine compartment, I don't see where an external float or sensor would go unless water was already in the engine bay, and the internal float/sensor models appear to have a different footprint. I don't see where a direct wired second bilge pump in the transom bilge would help since it is already dry with the plugs open.

Thanks
 
Lots of questions there. Couple of things.

This hull holds water badly. I've had my trailer tipped up so far that the articulating keel touched the ground and I still have water in the ski locker. It's just this side of impossible to drain. I shop-vac it out at the end of the season usually, and even then I'm not sure I get it all out. Once it's in there, it might just stay there. If you can, keep the front end significantly elevated when parked to promote the water running towards the rear of the boat. The more elevation the better. It'll look goofy, but your boat will stay drier on the inside.

Plugging the cup holders is a good start. Make sure they are ALL plugged. The swim platform cupholders will drip directly onto the rear storage area. This is what it looks like behind that rear bulkhead. Notice how the cupholder would drip onto that flat area, and then run FORWARD to the storage area. Plug that cupholder up (or put a drain on it like I did)
1620847265437.png

Make sure the scupper is clear and free flowing, and that all the channels around the seats are good and clean. Since I've plugged the cupholders, and cleaned all the drains I can sit in a monsoon level rainstorm on the lake and the storage area's stay relatively dry. I've literally had the cupholders FULL of water after being caught in the rain and it's still dry back there.

If I'm sitting idle in the rain, the ski locker fills. Sat for 3.5hrs waiting on the locks, in the rain, in Nashville back in Sept of '18. Went to take off when we finally got through, and the boat felt sluggish. Opened the ski locker and there was about 2ft of water in there. Had to stay just off plane for 10min to get all the water to drain into the bilge, and then get pumped out.

I had a bilge pump fail on me in the early parts of '20, and I temp replaced it with a manual style from Bass Pro Shops. It clipped right into the factory blue "mount" in the boat, and if I turned the switch on, it ran. Something like that with a float switch right beside it would keep the boat empty(-ish) of water, and not require the battery to be on at all times. Here's the cheap Bass pro pump on the left in the factory Rule mount, and the seized RULE Automatic on the right. I got the 800gph version of this pump.
1620847755185.png

Honestly, in your case, I would consider adding a second bilge and float switch in the "true bilge" below the cleanout tray in the very rear of the boat, then wiring that directly to the battery. A second bilge pump is never a bad idea, and the float switch will keep it from draining the battery.

In the end, if you can just get the water to run aft instead of fore, then I think you'll have a good portion of your problem solved. Just raising the tongue is the best measure here. Then coat the new cover with something like Never-Wet or similar to get it to bead the water off instead of soaking in, and you should be in good shape.

My boat survived this rainstorm in '19, and the carpet in the bow was a little damp, but the boat was otherwise dry on the inside. That's the Yamaha black "premium deluxe" mooring cover on there, with poles in place.
1620848084440.png
 
Thanks. Scupper and seat channels are free and clear and the cupholders hold water. I had the trailer jack up all the way up, but it was on a slight down and side slope in the yard. I suppose it could have overflowed the seat channel due to the angle, which is consistent with more water being on one side. However, the items on top were dry which is why I suspect seepage from the mystery part of the bilge.

Your picture of the rear bulk head removed was helpful. How do you remove the plywood bulkheads for a better look in person? I have not had a chance to dig that far into it yet to figure how things interconnect.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top