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Check Engine - Chap 223

blackhawkpilot

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
239
Reaction score
178
Points
122
Location
Enterprise, AL
Boat Make
Chaparral
Year
2016
Boat Model
VRX
Boat Length
22
26-ish hours on the boat that I've only had for 2 weeks now. Got the Check Engine" light with a"P013A" code. Google tells me that's a bad O2 sensor (for everything BUT the Chap boat - can't find any info on a code for a boat, so I'm going with that). Boat ran great, even after the light came on. Temps were good, voltages were good. Yeah, we did suck in the rope on that engine 2 weeks ago, but it's all been removed. I haven't seen any others with the Medallion display post anything, so I'm starting one. Will post my initial review of the Chap in a later thread.
 

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I would have to imagine that the p013a code is the same "o2 sensor slow to respond" deal you'll find elsewhere. There are a few ways to go about this and also a few scenarios regarding how troubling this issue could be.

Fixing it: The first thing I would do is wipe the outside of the o2 sensor off. I seriously doubt that it will fix anything, but it's free. Next, disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor and look for any oddities. Reconnect the harness and see if that fixes it.

How troubling is it: I will begin by saying that I am not familiar with brp's engine management system, but I am familiar with writing tuning files in automotive applications. The oxygen sensor is going to report the air to fuel ratio to the ecu. in closed loop operation (idle, low load conditions) the ecu will adjust fueling to maintain stoich in real time based upon information sent from the o2 sensor. Now, one you open up the throttle (open loop fueling), o2 inputs are ignored and the air to fuel ratio is commanded in a few tables in a grid. I would imagine throttle position vs rpm, or something like that. Anyway, the air to fuel ratio will be maintained via fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse width. The o2 sensor will be either be ignored (narrowband) or used for logging (wideband) in nearly all cases. The ability to have closed loop fuel control under all conditions is normally reserved for the aftermarket engine management systems on race cars (FAST, Holley efi, haltech etc.) A bad oxygen sensor can really ruin the day in that case, but it's a minor emissions inconvenience otherwise.
 
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Sorry, with all that yappin I forgot to get to the point. A sensor that is slow to respond still responds. A sensor pegged in on direction or another may be trying to tell you of a vacuum or boost leak. I would notify a dealer of the issue and have it replaced at your convenience provided that wiping it off (externally) and a "reseat" of the connector does not fix the issue.
 
Called the Chap dealer yesterday and talked to the service guy. He has O2 sensors on back order and will call when he gets them in. He also said that it's no big deal to go ahead and run the boat with the light still flashing - won't hurt it. Looks like we'll be out again this weekend.
 
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