DIY Wakeboard/wakesurf fishing rod holder rack for center consoles

[brian86992]

I was hellbent on getting a center console and surfing off it so here I am. No tower for a board rack and the T top tube diameter is too small to attach a rack. Not to mention, I walk on the gunnel all the time so I'd constantly be smacking my head. Surprisingly few threads online about no-tower wakeboard racks so I'll share mine.

Yamaha will be coming out with a product in the next months to help a bit which stores a board on the T top: Surf Carry Pocket. I had been using bungees to strap the surfboard to the T top but it's not very secure and a pain.

There's also a company called Manta Racks that has a product similar to what I built but at $450. I thought that was pretty steep. Manta Racks B3



Going the DIY route, here's my final product. Total cost under $140 and I could build one again in 30 minutes.


Parts:
$130 Three board rack, adjustable tilt with inserts for multiple tubing sizes
$2 1.5" SCH 40 PVC
1.5" PVC internal connector Any component to slide in the 1.5" PVC will work but it is very difficult to find parts that insert in PVC pipe.

Build:

1. Decide which rod holder to use. I used the stern starboard holder. Keeping the rack close to the rear of the boat will minimize shock in rough water and it's also out of the way for my port side surfing.
2. Pull out the rubber insert in the rod holder. On the FSH, it's a perfect 2" (or just shy of) ID which fits the 1.5" PVC (1.90 OD) like a glove.
3. Install internal coupling in PVC with generous glue. This creates double wall thickness for your notch that will prevent the rack from turning.
4. Cut the coupling next to the shoulder.
5. Notch the PVC to accommodate the rod holder support bar. Do not be sloppy with this. Make the cut at least perfectly perpendicular or even better undercut it at an angle (opposite on either side) so as the tube tries to rotate it will hold itself in the holder instead of lifting out and spinning. With three boards on the 15deg rod holder, it's a fair amount of torque.
6. Install rack to PVC tube at your desired height. I put mine with just a little clearance to the gunnel. I put strips of the included rubber insert between each layer of spacers to prevent rotation.
7. Cut excess PVC above the rack clamp.
8. Reinforce rod holder?

I don't yet have the connector installed here to double the wall thickness. I'm nervous about the PVC cracking a the notch with all the torque.









With three board on the rack, there is a fair amount of torque to rotate the pipe which should be no issue for the rod holder. The cantilevered weight does make me a bit worried about the rod holder's fiberglass attachment. I will probably pull the rod holder and put captive nuts on the back side so it's not just screws holding in fiberglass but they have a nut to bite on. I might also try to find a way to fill the area around the rod holder with foam so after it expands it will support the force of the rod holder. While the boat is trailered I can bounce the weight of the boards (more than they would while on the water) and there is only minor deflection of the gunnel so I don't expect that to be an issue.

First weekend out with the rack was a game changer. I wasn't moaning and moving people around the boat every time we wanted to swap a board. Crossing back over my surf wake was no issue for the rack which has surprisingly little movement because this location is more or less the pivot point of the boat.

 

[J-RAD]

Great solution! Nice work.

 

[brian86992]

Late update to the last part of this project. the only trouble I had with this setup is the torsional force on the PVC lifting it off the rod holder's cross bar so the board rack starts to rotate. To fix this I needed to make the plastic thicker and cut a deeper notch.

I ordered a PVC internal coupling which is a very uncommon part for the 1.5" PVC.

Campbell Well Point 1-1/2 " - Pipe Fittings - Amazon.com

Campbell Well Point 1-1/2 " - Pipe Fittings - Amazon.com

smile.amazon.com

I glued in the coupling the cut off the remaining tail sticking out. I then used my oscillating tool to cut the notches that the rod holder cross bar fits into. Just like before, they're cut at an angle so a clockwise rotation only holds them into the rod holder harder.




Here you can see the wall thickness is doubled for extra strength.




All good with three boards at full speed.

 

[Stang7tl]

Nice this was my plan if I couldn't get that same rake to mount to my t-top. So far it looks like it will work beside having to drill and tap another hole b/c angles. But still might do this like you did! NICE Work man!!!

 

[brian86992]

I actually played around with getting the rake to mount right on the T top and had success with the rod holders. The diameter of the tubing on the side of the T top is far too small for any rack without major modifications but the rod holders are about right.







I ended up not doing this for three reasons

• I already have clearance issues getting the boat under the house.
• I'm tall and would smack my head on the boards when standing next to the helm.
• The angle of the rack mounted here is about flat and I'm concerned they would come loose at speed.

If you could find a way to mount the rack to the T top some other way, that would be excellent. It might require welding which honestly isn't out of the question if you're serious enough about it.

 

[Stang7tl]

 

[brian86992]

That looks excellent! Does it work well?

 

[Stang7tl]

Yes so far will be doing more testing soon.

 

[brian86992]

Well crowd, I have to admit my own shortcoming. A few weekends ago in Lake Travis while making a rough crossing I turned around and realized my wake surfer wasn't on the rack any more. It must have wiggled its way out in the rough waves.

I knew deep down that I did a subpar job with the elastic cords. So after breaking out the credit card for a new wake surfer I've improved my setup.


10' of 7/8" ID garbage disposal hose. Great combination of stiffness/protection.

UDP 7/8 in. ID x 10 ft. PVC Disposal Discharge Hose T44006003 - The Home Depot

Black PVC Appliance Drain Hose is suitable for use as a flexible dishwasher and washing machine water drain hose. Reinforced with spiral polyester for pressure and stability and is kink resistant. The

www.homedepot.com

4 pieces cut and shoved on make the wake surf and wakeboard slots narrower (and more cushioned).
I've added new bungee cord now... will put up pics later.


Snug fit of the surfboard so its truly in contact with top and bottom fingers. Same with the wakeboard(s).



So that was my $400 lesson. Make sure your rack holds your boards securely!

 

[Wake_Dude]

First off. Excellent idea!

Second, can I be a dick for a minute? Why did you choose PVC for your tubing? I personally would have went with thick walled 6061 aluminum tubing. One day you'll be bouncing around and lose the whole works. That's a lot of weight for PVC to harbor; even if solid. If hell bent on using some sort of polymer, UMHW rod would have been a better choice. Just trying to help you out buddy. PVC is very brittle; especially with prolonged exposure to the elements.

 

[brian86992]

Well, that's an easy question to answer. I had the proper size PVC sitting in my shed whereas aluminum I'd have to order.

I also think that the slight flex of the PVC might be advantageous. The highest stresses I worry about are on the rod holder where it connects to the fiberglass. You can actually see some slight deflection in the fiberglass where it's mounted so the PVC will offer a little shock absorption. Either way, I haven't had issues with any of that. (And try to snap a 2' piece of 1.5" PVC! It takes a lot of torque.)


Since I was working on the rack last weekend I went ahead and put this strap on it to further help the rotation. It attaches to the cleat and doesn't allow it to rotate any further towards the stern.

 

[vidnoye]

Nice job!!! I'm about to copy you. I was looking at the Manta Racks but I didn't want to spend $500 for a rack so I started searching and found this.
How's it holding up? I'm planning on reinforcing the rod holder (using 1X 6 PVC board underneath the fiberglass and then I'll use nuts and bolts to hold the holder).
PVC pipe seems pretty strong specially if is double-walled, the idea of using an aluminum pipe is also good. I'll see if I can find it but I'll start with the PVC.
question: there are Rod holder that are straight instead of being 15 or 30 degrees. do you think a straight (0 degree) holder will provide better hold?

thanks