Estimated Cost for Boat Work....Is It Reasonable?

[djtech2k]

So I have been putting together my list of things to get done to my boat before its warm enough to get it in the water. I have a 2012 SX210. I have been looking for referrals around the closest lake to me and then reaching out to those people with the things I want done. I am asking for their availability and any kind of ballpark on costs. I will post my list and I'd like to see if you guys think it looks reasonable or what not.

- Cavitation on Port Motor: Based on my threads here, it seems like I have some cavitation on 1 motor. Its not horrible but its like a slipping clutch. I'd like to get it looked at and fixed. I was told here that it may be the channel leading into the impeller not being smooth. Mine is not smooth. I have no idea what else it could be.

- Throttle: My throttle seems to have some play to where when moving forward, it does nothing and then suddenly starts to go. I dont know if this is normal or not, but I was guessing that it could use tuned. I also have the thing where when I open it up to full, it creeks back down. So I think I need a throttle adjustment.

- CobraJet Install

- Buffing/Polishing: I have some oxidation on top and some discoloration on part of the hull. I'd like to get it smoothed out and waxed for boat season.


That is what I asked about. Here is the response info:

- Would need to look at damage to prop and wearring. Wearring is about $330 and prop is about $300.
- Removing and resealing the pump is $450.
- Installing CobraJet is $300
- Buffing is $25/foot


Ok, so I do not know much about wearrings, other than hearing about them. I assume he means that the wearring and/or prop could be causing the cavitation. And I understand that he would need to see it to know if it needs them or not. What I do not know is about the pump remove/reseal. Is that a separate possible cause or is that needed when you do the wearring or prop?

I realize that this guy is just giving me possible estimate stuff, which I appreciate since he is 2 hours from my boat. This is not about getting a commitment from him but about me trying to estimate possible costs. I was definitely not expecting this much for some of this stuff, but maybe this is normal and I had bad expectations. Like the cobrajet install at $300 seemed high, but again I wouldn't know.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@djtech2k If you can use a wrench, a level and some sockets and follow basic directions you can do your own Cobra install in about an hour or so. Maybe two. So $300 for that I feel is high.

 

[Dave burke]

I’m with @HangOutdoors. $300 seems pretty pricey. It took me about 90 minutes to install my CobraJet. It’s really not hard and you can always reach out to Jeff if you’re stuck.

Regarding the pump, his quote of $450 to remove and reseal is crazy high. It took me maybe 15 mins to remove mine and less time to put it back. Unless he’s doing a lot more, this seems excessive.

 

[djetok]

So I have been putting together my list of things to get done to my boat before its warm enough to get it in the water. I have a 2012 SX210. I have been looking for referrals around the closest lake to me and then reaching out to those people with the things I want done. I am asking for their availability and any kind of ballpark on costs. I will post my list and I'd like to see if you guys think it looks reasonable or what not.

- Cavitation on Port Motor: Based on my threads here, it seems like I have some cavitation on 1 motor. Its not horrible but its like a slipping clutch. I'd like to get it looked at and fixed. I was told here that it may be the channel leading into the impeller not being smooth. Mine is not smooth. I have no idea what else it could be.

- Throttle: My throttle seems to have some play to where when moving forward, it does nothing and then suddenly starts to go. I dont know if this is normal or not, but I was guessing that it could use tuned. I also have the thing where when I open it up to full, it creeks back down. So I think I need a throttle adjustment.

- CobraJet Install

- Buffing/Polishing: I have some oxidation on top and some discoloration on part of the hull. I'd like to get it smoothed out and waxed for boat season.


That is what I asked about. Here is the response info:

- Would need to look at damage to prop and wearring. Wearring is about $330 and prop is about $300.
- Removing and resealing the pump is $450.
- Installing CobraJet is $300
- Buffing is $25/foot


Ok, so I do not know much about wearrings, other than hearing about them. I assume he means that the wearring and/or prop could be causing the cavitation. And I understand that he would need to see it to know if it needs them or not. What I do not know is about the pump remove/reseal. Is that a separate possible cause or is that needed when you do the wearring or prop?

I realize that this guy is just giving me possible estimate stuff, which I appreciate since he is 2 hours from my boat. This is not about getting a commitment from him but about me trying to estimate possible costs. I was definitely not expecting this much for some of this stuff, but maybe this is normal and I had bad expectations. Like the cobrajet install at $300 seemed high, but again I wouldn't know.

You got this man. Those items are well documented on here. For the cavitation, I would look around for bad spots on the caulk on the intake grate and the pump. Do that first to see if you have any bad areas. If so you can seal them up after you pull the pump.

 

[adrianp89]

I agree with all of the above.

I'd pay some for buffing and detail though. If you have the cash, let someone else do it. That is hard work and if you don't have experience it could be a waste of your time.

 

[djtech2k]

Thanks.

Last summer I did follow some instructions on here on the cavitation. I found a tiny twig in the impeller and removed it. I got marine silicone and put it in any crack/crevice I could see on the metal grate on the bottom and the back. The cavitation was still there. Guys here said that the fiberglass area that is in that channel that leads to the impeller needs to be smooth and can cause it. Mine has some stuff on it, like stuff from the water that has attached and hardened. Its not smooth but I cannot get my arm in there and I did not feel comfortable taking the pump out of the back like someone suggested.

So what are your thoughts on the stuff that the mechanic mentioned? Wearring, prop, and pump remove/reseal? I understand how a damaged prop will cause the shaking/cavitation. My prop looks fine from what I can see. I do not know anything about the wearring and the remove/reseal of the pump. Do those cause cavitation? And do you need to do all of those things to fix it or could it just be one of them?

I really want to get this cavitation fixed so that I don't have to worry about it. It only happens when I hit the throttle aggressively on the port engine, but I'd like it to not be an issue.

 

[djetok]

Thanks.

Last summer I did follow some instructions on here on the cavitation. I found a tiny twig in the impeller and removed it. I got marine silicone and put it in any crack/crevice I could see on the metal grate on the bottom and the back. The cavitation was still there. Guys here said that the fiberglass area that is in that channel that leads to the impeller needs to be smooth and can cause it. Mine has some stuff on it, like stuff from the water that has attached and hardened. Its not smooth but I cannot get my arm in there and I did not feel comfortable taking the pump out of the back like someone suggested.

So what are your thoughts on the stuff that the mechanic mentioned? Wearring, prop, and pump remove/reseal? I understand how a damaged prop will cause the shaking/cavitation. My prop looks fine from what I can see. I do not know anything about the wearring and the remove/reseal of the pump. Do those cause cavitation? And do you need to do all of those things to fix it or could it just be one of them?

I really want to get this cavitation fixed so that I don't have to worry about it. It only happens when I hit the throttle aggressively on the port engine, but I'd like it to not be an issue.

I would read up on @swatski pump sealing posts. How many hours on the boat.

Cavitation could be a simple as your twig , or all things combined.

 

[Dave burke]

There’s a good YouTube video by somebody I this forum about how to fix a cavitation issue (sorry I can’t remember the name but will find it if you can’t). If the impeller looks good as you say then it likely some unevenness in the sleeve.

if after watching these various videos you’re still not comfortable, let us know

 

[djtech2k]

I would read up on @swatski pump sealing posts. How many hours on the boat.

Cavitation could be a simple as your twig , or all things combined.

My boat has about 150 hours. I removed the tiny twig last summer and the cavitation was still there. It was still there after I did the silicone as well. Maybe it was less, I do not know. I bought the boat in late August so I only was able to get on the water like 3 times before it was too cold and I winterized it.

BTW, just FYI I do not have vibration or shaking. I only had the rpm shooting up like a clutch thats slipping in a car. The RPM shoots up and eventually slowly comes down. It happens when I accelerate.

 

[djetok]

My boat has about 150 hours. I removed the tiny twig last summer and the cavitation was still there. It was still there after I did the silicone as well. Maybe it was less, I do not know. I bought the boat in late August so I only was able to get on the water like 3 times before it was too cold and I winterized it.

BTW, just FYI I do not have vibration or shaking. I only had the rpm shooting up like a clutch thats slipping in a car. The RPM shoots up and eventually slowly comes down. It happens when I accelerate.

Yeah I was reading through you previous posts. I would definitely seal things up in the intake area.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/performance-cavitation-impeller-slippage-in-twin-engine-jet-boats-help-me-understand.11846/

 

[djtech2k]

Thanks. I just read that thread and watched the videos.

Thats interesting that they say its normal to have more cavitation in the port than starboard. I definitely see that. As I remember it, when I did hit the throttle real hard one time I got the similar behavior to one of the first videos on one engine. The engine was making that rapid "up and down" revving. I backed off and sped up more slowly and it didn't happen.

On a normal circumstance, when I hit the throttle on hole shot, the port rpm's shoot up most of the time. It does creed back down like things "catch up". After reading that thread, I do not know how much of an issue I have or not. I realize that a boat, particularly my boat with the 110hp motors, will not have torque like a car. I get that. I just don't want to damage the boat by running it if it is not right and I would like to be able to hit the hole shot sometimes, especially when towing a tube or something.

The estimated costs I got from the boat shop caught me by surprise. I did not expect that kind of cost for each individual thing. Is the pump remove/reseal something that can cause cavitation? Does it need to be done with the wearring or are they totally separate, unrelated things? Also, does the wearring affect the kind of cavitation that I described that I have?

 

[agannole93]

If you are not comfortable with the pumps, etc. don't do it yourself. Lots of good write ups on here and if you follow instructions and are somewhat handy/mechanical you might give it a go.

I would second what others have said, absolutely try to do the cobra yourself. They are not difficult, Jeff provides great instructions and is easily reachable for help should you get stuck. $300 for that is high.

I would also maybe look around a bit more for other quotes on a buff and a wax. It is hard work and maybe that's a fair price where you are. I found a couple guys locally to me that would do our 23 footer that has a lot of oxidation on it for around $300-$350, so maybe closer to $15-18/foot vs $25.

 

[djtech2k]

For reference, here are some pics I took from last year when I was posted here about it. After this is when I put new silicone all around the edges of the metal grate where it appeared missing or any gaps. I don't know if this could cause what I experienced or not. Like I said, the wear ring and the
pump reseal I am not familiar with.

 

[djetok]

For reference, here are some pics I took from last year when I was posted here about it. After this is when I put new silicone all around the edges of the metal grate where it appeared missing or any gaps. I don't know if this could cause what I experienced or not. Like I said, the wear ring and the
pump reseal I am not familiar with.


View attachment 145819View attachment 145820

I would start with sealant.

 

[djtech2k]

I would start with sealant.

Seal where? I put the silicone all around the outside edge of the grates last year. The inside of the tunnel area seems very rough but I cannot reach it. The mechanic I am talking too was very concerned about those pictures. He said that cavitation comes from too much prop to wear ring clearance. He said I could destroy the pump if running it with cavitation. He said something caught it in would do it too. He said he would guess it’s a clearance issue but of course needs to get it taken apart.

I may try to do the cobra jet fins myself. I’d rather not but $300 is enough to consider doing it myself.

 

[the MfM]

Some people dont think running a business be like it is but it do.

 

[djtech2k]

Out of curiosity, what is the material that has all the bubble looking things on it from my picture? Is that a metal surface or fiberglass? And is it possible to smooth it out? As of now I am planning to take it to the mechanic that I mentioned above, but the potential cost does make me nervous. He said the picture looked in rough shape, so of course that makes me nervous.

 

[djtech2k]

Ok so I dropped my boat off to the mechanic today. He showed me how the wear ring and the prop interact and what happens with cavitation. They pulled mine out to diagnose and he said it needs wear ring and prop. He said the prop was burned up, like he showed me on one in his shop. Looks like the cost for parts and labor will be about $1200. I am not super happy about it but it’s where we are. He says it is hard to get props now so he is searching. I am now hoping that the other engine does not have the issue.

So since this is the case with mine, I have to ask how often does this happen? He told me that if you feel cavitation, you should stop driving it ASAP. He said that running it with cavitation makes it worse and causes damage. I think he means the prop damage and the space between the prop and wear ring, which causes the need to replace them.

So that’s where I am. Does this all make sense to you guys?

 

[Wisefam22]

Is he a yamaha mechanic regularly or just a marine mechanic?

 

[djtech2k]

He is at the closest lake near me that I got several recommendations to go to. He is not a Yamaha dealer mechanic but he apparently does a ton of jet boat work. He seemed very knowledgeable.

He said that my prop and wear ring definitely needed replaced. He said it may be difficult to find a prop since they’ve been hard to get. He said that running the boat with any cavitation will make it worse. I told him to order the parts since I have no real other choice.