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First Experience Winterizing

djtech2k

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
249
Reaction score
27
Points
97
Location
WV
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
After a lot of planning, I finally got to winterizing my boat today. I followed all the stuff I have read here and answers I got to my questions. I thought I would post back my experience.

I decided to change the oil in both engines but not change the plugs until spring. I did not want to get them dirty with the fog or let them sit all winter. SoI’m the spring I will change them.

The oil change was not too bad. I did the port engine first. I used the pet pads to not make a mess. I used the EWK oil extractor that I bought. I ran the engine for about 10mins with water running into the fish port. Pumping the oil out was easy and simple. I got about 2 Liters out of that motor. I put one pad below the oil filter but it is kind of hard to get to. Far more oil came out when I removed the filter so it went on the pad, on the boat, and drained under the motor to the middle of the hull/bilge area. It was a mess. I wiped it up the best I could. I put the new filter on and out in 3 quarts of oil. I ran the motor for a couple mins with water and checked the oil. I did make a mistake and left the water on after I shutoff the engine for about 30-60 seconds so after I turned the water off, I ran the motor for a few seconds to hopefully push out any water.

The starboard engine was easier because it’s easier to get to and it was my second time. About 1.5-1.7 liters came out of this engine. I put in 3 quarts and did the rest the same. All good.

I also fogged the engines. On port engine I pulled out the air filter, blew it out with air, pulled the intake hose and sprayed the fog in in spurts with the engine running with water running. It only took a few squirts before it shutoff. It maybe took like 6-8 squirts. Once it shut off. I ran the motor for a few seconds without water to blowout water. After it ran, I shot some air into the flush out valve to also flush out water.

I did the exact same for the starboard engine. It took several more squirts of the fog before it shut off but everything else was the same.

I did a quick wash on the outside but it got cold so I couldn’t do an in depth wash. I was planning to do a deep clean, buff, and wax the boat, including the hull, but I think I am going to wait until spring to do that. I’m short on time and it’s a much bigger job than I expected with doing the hull. There’s some discoloration on it that I thought was dust/dirt but it’s doesn’t wash off.

I plan to remove the batteries before I park it for the winter. I also put in the fuel stabilizer and will top off the fuel tank on the way to park it.

Did I miss anything? Hope this helps any new person walking the same path. The FAQ was my main source of instruction, along with my other threads on here.
 
Sounds good, good job!
I agree on the plugs I run it a couple of times in the spring then change them out. I also pull the plugs and squirt some fogging oil (hold onto that squirt straw) in the cylinders, turn it over for a second or two and put the plugs back in. You want to put the stabilizer in before you run (although maybe you did) the engines for the last time to get it through the whole fuel system. I use the Yamaha fuel stabilzer or Sta-bil 360 all season long every fill up, then put a heavy dose in for the winter. I have dual batteries, so I leave them in (too lazy to undo everything and research shows it doesn't effect them). I setup a timer to go on two days a week to keep the batteries topped off utilizing the onboard Noco Genius Charger. Make sure to top off the batteries with distilled water, if not AGMs.
 
I suggest you consider pulling the clean out plugs. They are normally full of water and could possibly freeze internally. I just disassemble them, wash them out and then put Vaseline on the internal mechanical parts. Store in the basement until spring.
I also add the fuel treatment prior to warming the engines. This way the fuel is treated all the way to the fuel injectors.
 
My clean out plugs need rebuilt so they are already sitting out of the holes. I have the rebuild kits but will wait until spring for that too. I didn’t think to put in the stabilizer earlier but I wish I had. The tank is already almost full but I put it in yesterday and will top off the tank on the way to park the boat for winter.

I may try to disconnect my clean out plugs and keep them in my garage over the winter so I can rebuild them but I do like them being connected that that cable from the factory. I’m not sure if I want to cut that cable to disconnect them.
 
Sounds like a job well done. I should be doing mine this week. I’ll probably be doing the fogging like you, too lazy to pull the plugs just for that.
 
Check your cables on the clean outs. I am able to thread them through the loop without cutting anything.
 
I think you hit the nail on the head.

I did my first on-water oil changes this weekend. I thought I wouldn't have to deal with the hoses, and I could level the boat by using my lift. Since I knew I was pulling it later in the day anyway.

Two quick tips if you only got 2ltrs out.

1. You warmed the oil, that was the right idea. I honestly got my engines hot, on a quick "last cruise" That was probably a mistake. But it cooled by the time I got to the second motor. It was steaming in my catch bottle.

2. when using the oil pumps. Keep fishing that hose down the dipstick hole more and more. But about the time you think you have it all, pull the hose out slowly. You will find that the hose gets pushed in so far, that it starts curling back up the block. You will pull it back down into pockets of oil to be sucked out.

I ended up getting 3qts/engine out this weekend. That was my personal best. I also used the button on the throttle trick at the landing to bump my engines RPM up a bit to blow additional water out. Gotta clean, drain and fog and she is ready for bed. Sad weekend, pulling docks and lifts too.

AB32664D-0A25-432B-B363-6963FC504874.jpeg
 

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Nice disassembled photos of your dock. Would like to see what it looks like when in use. Thanks for sharing.
 
One tip to prevent such a mess with the oil filter is to use a ziplock bag. After breaking it loose, put a ziplock bag over it as you unscrew it. I have used both incontinence pads and pet pads to keep oil off the engine bay floor. They look almost identical and I'm able to stuff them well under the engine to catch any oil. I rarely have any mess. After removing the oil filter in the ziplock bag I don't pull the pad right away as there is still some oil dripping. I leave the pad in for a minute or two while I use a paper towel to clean up under the oil filter where some oil has gotten on the engine block. Then I carefully remove the pad. Just make sure you have the absorbent side facing up. This year for the first time I accidently put it face down and had to carefully remove it as it wasn't doing what it was supposed to do. It was also getting dark so I'll blame my failing eyesight on that one.
 
I changed my oil successfully this past Saturday. Did the final ride of the season to warm up the oil first. Love the pump to get the oil out. Definitely going to try this with the car, the lawn mower, etc. I was worried it or the filter removal was going to be a mess but it wasn’t. I used the ziplock bag and “pig pads” to keep things clean.
2446C0EA-76AE-4DB5-8D2B-3CE7826B7F8C.jpeg
 
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The pump works for engines that have no drain plug, or not easy access. But it would be wise to use the drain plug on engines like your car that have it located at it's lowest point. As it may be nearly impossible to snake that tube all the way to the bottom of the oil pan on a large engine.
 
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