Going to tackle 10hr service myself - need a bit of help

[bleudyno]

Hey all,

With the boating season fast approaching, I'm going to tackle the 10hr service myself and save myself the trouble of driving the boat an hr away to do it at the dealer. I've have a list of the necessary items and just wanted to confirm with any of you that have done it yourself to make sure I have everything I need and whether I need to do all of it. Anything else I should check while I'm doing all of this?

Boat info:
2020 AR190
10hrs on the clock so far

1. Oil Change -
Yamalube Oil change kit - Can someone confirm that the proper oil is the Yamalube 10W-40 4W? Is 4 quarts enough? When I search oil for a 2020 AR190, the search comes up with serveral different oil weights so I want to make sure I use the correct one.
Oil extractor - This one or This other one

2. Replace spark plugs - Do I even need to replace them or just check the spark plugs to make sure they're still good? What is the correct torque setting when re-installing them?
1.8 Litre Yamaha spark plugs

 

[Crob83]

1.) Yes that is the right oil change kit, yes 4 quarts is enough (3.5qts is what it calls for, do not over fill) Make sure to change the filter as well.

2.) Changing the plugs is super easy, go to the NGK website and it will give you torque ratios. I wouldn't worry about them at 10 hours personally, I just changed mine for the first time at 40 hours just for preventative maintenance.

I bought the 4 uncle's or whatever it's called in your first link for the extractor it works well. Where are you located?

 

[bleudyno]

Thanks, I did put two oil extractors on the original post from Amazon under the link for the oil change kit. Are either of those the one you have?

 

[bleudyno]

Torque setting from NGK for a 14mm thread diameter shows 25 to 30Nm (2.5 to 3.0 kgm) - does that sound correct?

 

[VitaminSea]

Thanks, I did put two oil extractors on the original post from Amazon under the link for the oil change kit. Are either of those the one you have?

I have the EWK and have used it 3 times thus far. It works great, no need to hook up to an air compressor, as the included pump makes easy work of extracting the oil.

Spark plugs are inexpensive, if you are going to check them, it’s just as easy to replace them. I find the most cost effective to order from a local auto parts store vs online. Usually around $4-5 a piece.

Missed where you boat...if in salt a great time to spray down the engine and bilge clamps with an anti corrosion spray.

 

[Crob83]

Thanks, I did put two oil extractors on the original post from Amazon under the link for the oil change kit. Are either of those the one you have?

Ya the four uncles brand you listed is the exact one I bought, I like it

 

[bleudyno]

I have the EWK and have used it 3 times thus far. It works great, no need to hook up to an air compressor, as the included pump makes easy work of extracting the oil.

Spark plugs are inexpensive, if you are going to check them, it’s just as easy to replace them. I find the most cost effective to order from a local auto parts store vs online. Usually around $4-5 a piece.

Missed where you boat...if in salt a great time to spray down the engine and bilge clamps with an anti corrosion spray.

I boat in both salt and fresh so I guess it wouldn't hurt to spray down everything

 

[bleudyno]

Oh yea, is it best to run the engine for a short while before I do the oil change? Then refill oil partially, run engine again, and check level and top off?

 

[VitaminSea]

Oh yea, is it best to run the engine for a short while before I do the oil change? Then refill oil partially, run engine again, and check level and top off?

You’re gonna get many differences in opinion regarding this. If you are in a cold environment, it will help with warming the oil. I’m in FL, and have never run my engines prior to an oil change. Also the nice part of using the extractor, is you know how much oil you removed.... just add that much back in. When checking oil level, its suggested its best to do while on the water and the engine is level, not on the trailer. My suggestion would be to take a quart with you and check the level when you are back out on the water.

I attached a screen shot from the service manual for my VX Cruiser HO (I believe its the same 1.8L engine), the covers checking/changing the oil per Yamaha.




* Edit to add 2nd page to address your spark plug questions...

 

[HangOutdoors]

@bleudyno You are correct. Do not assume you should add the amount you took out. You could be low already or have way too much in there. Yes dealers have overfilled the oil upon initial delivery. Always run your engine a bit before removing the oil it is just not only to make it more fluid, but also any sediment or particles that are around will mix with the oil and you can have a better chance of getting them out. Especially during the 10 hour services when there will be shavings and possible particles from engine breakin, in the oil.

I add a bit less than I took out. It is good to check the oil level before removal warm so that you have a reference point. It may be too high or too low. The optimal amount is just under half way. I keep mine mid way between low and half way. Any more and it may decrease performance. Too much and it could slop up your air filter.

I put in enough for it to come up to low, run it on the hose for a bit, and then add a more to the proper level. Then I check on the water again.

After the first time, it becomes second nature.

 

[swatski]

Torque setting from NGK for a 14mm thread diameter shows 25 to 30Nm (2.5 to 3.0 kgm) - does that sound correct?

It depends. If using anti-seize, which is recommended if you are in salt, those numbers could be way off.

Best to do it the old fashioned way, hand tight and then 3/4 turn with a wrench, with or w/o anti seize.

--

 

[marcham]

1. Spark plugs. Personally, I would inspect, check gaps and for unusual deposits and then re-install.

2. A big part of the 10 hr service is crawling through the entire boat checking for loose connections. Gently check each fastener, especially hose clamps for tightness. This includes the rear deck. you'll need to remove the 22 screws and re-seal the cover with marine silicone afterwards. Include the large nuts in the pop-up cleats in your inspection. I had 1 loose at the 10 hr inspection and found another laying on the carpet at the 50hr oil change.

3. As mentioned above and irrespective of climate, I would run the engine prior to doing an oil change. In theory, this takes heavy deposits in the oil pan, places them in suspension and ensures that a good portion are removed with the oil change.

4. Personally, I like to change oil filters at 10hrs and I cut them for inspection. I do this again at 60 hrs to ensure the metal deposits have subsided.

Mine took about 3 hrs.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@marcham makes an excellent point on plugs. Some of my plugs where out of gap significantly at the 10 hour maintenance I did, which were put in at the factory.

 

[JBehrens]

Kind of piggybacking off of others but here is some things I recommend

1. I would change the plugs if you already have them out, its good pice of mind and our boats like clean plugs, don't forget to add anti-seize.

2. I like to spray BRP XPS on the engine, especially for running in salt, spay on the engine mounts, clamps, anything that can rust really. A little goes a long way.

3. Don't forget to pre-fill the oil filter, you don't want to be running the engine dry. Get some shop rags to help soak up the oil.

4. Don't forget about the trailer, check the bearings (add grease if needed), air pressure, straps, lights, bunk bolts, ect.

If your looking for a good oil pump the LuMax is the way to go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059HK8JW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Anti-seize: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FW7VGE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
BRP XPS: https://www.amazon.com/Ski-Doo-Can-Am-Sea-Doo-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B01D50HXXI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=KWG7AODAJAOO&dchild=1&keywords=brp+anti+corrosive+spray&qid=1614784694&sprefix=BRP+ani,aps,215&sr=8-2

 

[VitaminSea]

In theory, this takes heavy deposits in the oil pan, places them in suspension and ensures that a good portion are removed with the oil change.

Thanks for edification here. I never though about it from this perspective.