Help me please!

[Av8tor07]

Good evening. I have a 2016 212X. I decided to add a blue seas “add a battery package with the ACR”. Before I had the blue seas battery selector that includes the 4 selections, off-1-2-1+2 It looks like I screwed up the whole thing. I always Had 2 batteries, I had the dealer install a second battery when I bought the boat new. The dealer installed 2 cranking batteries, I’ve had them since 2017 and never had an issue with them. I decided to install 2 new deep cycle group 27 batteries along with the new 4 post selector. now everything seems to work, except that my port engine will just crank and crank and it won’t start. The starboard engine will not do anything when I try to start it. I installed push start on the engines years ago and never had a problem with them. I checked the usual things like throttles and landyard. Almost forgot to mention that I don’t know how the boat is wired, I don’t know which cables are for engine start and which would be like the house cables. They’re not labeled. Please help, any ideas are appreciated.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Do you have pictures of the wiring around the Battery and Switches?

 

[Av8tor07]

Here’s some pictures. The battery selectors There’s 2 wires that are labeled G1 and B1. The B1 was hooked up to the common port on the 3 prong selector. The other 2 red wires go towards the engines but I can’t see where they go exactly.

 

[VitaminSea]

Do you know if the new batteries are fully charged? Where you able to start the motors prior to installing the ACR?

The B1 wire, can you tell where that runs to? I am suspecting this is your “house” positive, whereas the other two positives run to the engines. Can you locate a wiring diagram online?

If it were me, I would back track and hook all the similars wires (positive/grounds) directly to one battery, if the motors crank, then work my way back from there following the ACR instructions.

I don’t have an ACR, so can’t help in that arena.

Good luck.

 

[Av8tor07]

Do you know if the new batteries are fully charged? Where you able to start the motors prior to installing the ACR?

The B1 wire, can you tell where that runs to? I am suspecting this is your “house” positive, whereas the other two positives run to the engines. Can you locate a wiring diagram online?

If it were me, I would back track and hook all the similars wires (positive/grounds) directly to one battery, if the motors crank, then work my way back from there following the ACR instructions.

I don’t have an ACR, so can’t help in that arena.

Good luck.

I did have both batteries on the trickle charger. I will make sure that they charged and follow your suggestion using just one battery. I also believe that the B1 is the house positive, because the blower and radio won’t work if it isn’t hooked up. In my previous arrangement, the B1 was hooked up to the bottom post on the 3 prong selector.

 

[sunbyrned]

I can go check out my batteries in the morning. The cables that go to the house or engines are longer. I just don’t recall which. Do you have a set of cables that are longer than the other?

 

[Av8tor07]

I can go check out my batteries in the morning. The cables that go to the house or engines are longer. I just don’t recall which. Do you have a set of cables that are longer than the other?

The 2 cables that I believe go to the engines are longer. They are long and separated, while the one labeles B1 is all wrapped up in a harness. Thank you.

 

[marcham]

G1 is a ground. How many ground wires do you have connected to the batteries? Is there a ground wire joining the two negative posts in parallel?

 

[Av8tor07]

G1 is a ground. How many ground wires do you have connected to the batteries? Is there a ground wire joining the two negative posts in parallel?

I unplugged Everything so that I can start from scratch. both Batteries had a negative cable tying them in parallel. Besides that there were 3 other negative cables, one was the G1. The other 2 were not labeled.

 

[InmyElement]

Hope this helps..
Bottom 2 coming in to the switch are +starting and +house batteries ACRs are next up left and right side for house and starting. Top left 2 cables are supplying + bus bar at the helm and +bus bar to left. Top right 2 cables are going to the engines. Feel free to reach out with questions. I went over Blue Seas videos and diagrams a thousand times making sure I had it correct, so far knocking on my head, no issues.

Add-A-Battery Video - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

 

[Av8tor07]

This is my setup so far. 1 and 2 bottom posts have a positive going to each battery. 1 top is why I think the house circuit is, labeled B1. 2 top is both positives that go to the engines. So far I only have 2 grounds wired, the one labeled G1 for the house circuit and a negative wire between both batteries. If I turn the switch to on. I get blower and radio, my tachs go nutty sweeping back and forth saying “engine comm issue” I had this yesterday, it went away when I wired the rest of the negative cables. My question is. Does it matter which battery the negatives go to? Thank you.

 

[Av8tor07]

Another question is. Can I have both wires that I assume go to the engines on one post? I believe that this is how I had it yesterday too when I couldn’t get the port engine to start and the starboard engine wouldn’t even crank

 

[sunbyrned]

Here's a post from another thread with a pic. Not sure this helps you though because I'm not familiar with the Blue Sea stuff. The pic is the set up I have though.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/battery-config-crisis.31872/post-517762

 

[Av8tor07]

Here's a post from another thread with a pic. Not sure this helps you though because I'm not familiar with the Blue Sea stuff. The pic is the set up I have though.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/battery-config-crisis.31872/post-517762

I can’t really make sense of it using that picture. Thanks

 

[VitaminSea]

Does it matter which battery the negatives go to?

No it should not. Ideally, you would want a bus bar as @InmyElement has in his set up. You can run a ground to each battery, or have they all tied to one battery post as long as you keep both battery negative terminals wired together.

 

[Av8tor07]

No it should not. Ideally, you would want a bus bar as @InmyElement has in his set up. You can run a ground to each battery, or have they all tied to one battery post as long as you keep both battery negative terminals wired together.

Ok. Thank you, I did order one of those bars but it was shipped to my moms house instead of mine. I will install it though.

 

[TimW451]

1) It would help to have a fully inventory of all wires "coming out of the boat" that got/get plugged into the batteries and switches. Especially the grounds, because...
2) I am concerned that the black cable labeled "G1" is not a ground. I understand this is unlikely/abnormal, but I've read before about many boats having a rogue black cable that was actually a positive cable on this board and scanning for "G1" the most recent dialog was about it actually being a positive cable. think about where this cable was before, was it on a battery or the "Common" of the original switch?
3) To your question, yes with the new switch all the engine/start positives will go on one post and all the house positives on the other post, then the batteries each go to a different, opposite post. (like @InmyElement 's pic) One exception may be if you have an "always on" positive, you'd put that on the same post as one of the batteries.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Av8tor07 On mine I have a bilge wire which is always hot so that goes on my starting battery post. Also if you are using the ACR you need to add the ground wire with a 10 amp fuse as recommend to the connector at the bottom front of the ACR.

 

[Av8tor07]

1) It would help to have a fully inventory of all wires "coming out of the boat" that got/get plugged into the batteries and switches. Especially the grounds, because...
2) I am concerned that the black cable labeled "G1" is not a ground. I understand this is unlikely/abnormal, but I've read before about many boats having a rogue black cable that was actually a positive cable on this board and scanning for "G1" the most recent dialog was about it actually being a positive cable. think about where this cable was before, was it on a battery or the "Common" of the original switch?
3) To your question, yes with the new switch all the engine/start positives will go on one post and all the house positives on the other post, then the batteries each go to a different, opposite post. (like @InmyElement 's pic) One exception may be if you have an "always on" positive, you'd put that on the same post as one of the batteries.

The B1 was hooked on the common post in the old selector. I believe that I have everything correct the way I have it. The boat is completely dead until I wire B1 to positive and G1 to ground, then the radio, blower and everything else works. I now believe that my problem is behind the dash. I was doing some splicing back there because I’m also installing a Fell MOB wireless kill switch. I noticed that a few wires weren’t connected, once I did, I was able to start my starboard engine. I will play around in there and see. Thanks for the help

 

[Av8tor07]

@Av8tor07 On mine I have a bilge wire which is always hot so that goes on my starting battery post. Also if you are using the ACR you need to add the ground wire with a 10 amp fuse as recommend to the connector at the bottom front of the ACR.

Mine says that I need a 1 amp breaker. I haven’t installed it yet but will today