hub bearing and brake question

[robert843]

So I put new tires on my trailer the other day when I got back to storage I was going to grease the bearings and realized at the bearing hubs were rusted pretty bad to the point they where not going to take grease also one rim and bearing hub were extremely hot so I think one of the brakes locked up as well. Does any one know which hub kit fits the 2011 mfi 24ft trailers? I'm going to replace the whole thing at once instead of just the brearings as there is some rust where the tires bolt on as well. Also has anyone else just removed their brakes I seriously considering doing that in stead of dealing with the hassle of repairing them as I think the need serious work as well the are rusted pretty seriously also.

 

[Bruce]

Removing the brakes would be illegal. Depending on what you are towing with it could be quite dangerous.

 

[robert843]

Removing the brakes would be illegal. Depending on what you are towing with it could be quite dangerous.

I'm not familiar with the laws what would I have to have for it to not illegal? My second boat has a tandem axle trailer as well with no brakes and its about the same weight as the Yamaha and I have had no issues towing it so far.

 

[Bruce]

The laws vary from state to state. AAA has a good summary at http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/

I remember your second boat being older. It is likely that trailer was built before brakes were required.

If you got into an accident the lack of brakes could be a factor in assigning fault and possibly in whether or not your insurance covered the accident.

 

[robert843]

You are correct I was looking as well it looks like the trailer brake laws are newer than my other boat. Now I guess I just need to decide if it's better to spend 1000-1500 on this trailer or buy a new one.

 

[Duane652000]

Just get new hubs and bearing buddies and bearings. It should run a few hundred deer, but no where near a grand.

 

[robert843]

Shop told me roughly $60 per hub kit plus $100 hour labor and thats before they touch the brakes. I figure they will gouge me and charge roughly two hours labor to replace all four hubs. I already know they are going to want to replace most of the braking system as it is rusted pretty bad I'm guessing another $500 there in parts and labor if I'm lucky. I dont have the time to do it or I would try and tackle it myself whats really killing me right now is they told me at least two to three weeks before I get it back which usually means 3-4 weeks for this shop. If someone on here wants to make some money come on through and do it I will gladly pay the same shop rate to get it back faster

 

[tdonoughue]

Hmmmm.... Tempting offer. Do we get to gouge you like the shop would, too?

 

[Bruce]

@veedubtek, do you have any advice for Robert?

 

[veedubtek]

Shit, we homeys now! Been providing support via text, and planning a trip down if he don't get it figured out soon.

 

[Bruce]

@robert843, would you have time to swap out axle assemblies if you purchased complete axles with hubs?

The non-braked idler axle assemblies are around $200.

Is your surge brake system on the tongue in bad shape? If so you might replace the braked axle with one with electric brakes which can be purchased for around $300.

 

[Bruce]

Shit, we homeys now! Been providing support via text, and planning a trip down if he don't get it figured out soon.

In that case, forget my suggestions. I am at best an amature mechanic who is good at taking a bag of parts to the pros!

 

[robert843]

@Bruce if the shop doesn't get to it this week I'm going to jump on it this coming weekend. I just got to find out which hub kit I need. I think the fromt end of the brakes are fine just need to replace calibers and all the stuff around it probably to be safe I'm sure I could get away with less then that but might as well switch it all out if I'm under there.

 

[Bruce]

I am planning to replace my springs and shackles before Bimini. I replaced the shackles on one corner where the nuts were rusting away last year. How do yours look?

 

[bronze_10]

Do what I did.. and just get a aluminum trailer!

 

[JDSCHMOO]

I replaced both axles with non-MFI axles last year after I had a bearing blow out and destroyed the rear axle that had the brakes. My buddy owns a shop, had him replace both axles with a different, more common brand, I forget the brand at the moment, and had him add brakes to the other axle as well. Replaced all the springs and hardware as well. Now I have a trailer with brakes on both axles, new equipment, and easily acquired , less costly replacement axles should the need arise to replace them again. The MFI axles are more $$$ and harder to find. Only trailer mods was a small mounting plate he had to weld on about 4" x 4". Now it rides like a dream, haven't noticed any changes in braking even with both axles with brakes, but I feel better knowing I won't be out more $$$ and time if I need to replace them again.

 

[robert843]

Do what I did.. and just get a aluminum trailer!

The thought has crossed my mind. I want one with aluminum bunks as well.

 

[bronze_10]

Ohhhh. Aluminum bunks! I didn't know they had those.. we bought an easy load trailer.. the different in ride between the mfi spring suspion with bias ply tires and the torsion axel suspension with radials is absolutely amazing.. there is no comparison.

 

[tdonoughue]

Hmmmm... Do I want aluminum bunks? At first it seems tempting (after all, no rotting wood, nothing to replace there). But then I am thinking (and on a weekend--oh, the horror)...

What happens when the carpet wears out? You just scrape on the aluminum? Eeek. I think for that I would rather wood.

Also, when loading, the wood gives a little as you hit it. I don't know that the aluminum would have the same give. Seems like a rougher load. And more carpet wear.

Am I missing something here?

 

[Bruce]

I agree on the aluminum bunks. The wood is soft and bends. I would not want rigid bunks. Replacing the wood and carpet is easy.