Ignition Key/Switch problem

[Big Daddy]

I"ve been having a problem with my key switch on the port engine of my 1999 LS 2000 jet boat. When turning the key "OFF" to shut the engine down....the engine continues to run? The only way I can shut it down is to pull the lanyard cord. Now when I turn the key to "START" the motor.... I have no juice? Nothing happens. I checked the safety switches in the transom and they are fine. Could this just be an ignition key switch replacement or something else causing the problem??

 

[Beachbummer]

Both of those together do point at the key switch as a potential problem. Are you handy with a Multi meter? Perhaps you can bench test it before you try to swap it? With the battery switch off you should be able to check continuity to the right places. Best of Luck!

 

[Big Daddy]

Thanks for your help. It seems Yamaha has discontinued this part? [HASH=532]#GU1[/HASH]-68307-00-00. I checked dealers and Ebay... nothing available. Any ideas on other suppliers to check??

 

[Beachbummer]

perhaps superseded? The switch should be nothing special, NC contacts at each position. Any generic key switch ought to work... Perhaps something like this?
Amazon.com: RUPSE Ignition Switch Key Assy for Yamaha Outboard Motor Control Box 703-82510-43-00: Sports & Outdoors

In theory you could replace with one switch and two temporary buttons. Button to shut off, button to start and switch to simulate key in On Position. Switch should have Off | On | Start and bridge those connections on each of those positions.

Also, I bet the switch inside is not very complex...perhaps spray with contact cleaner and jiggle/actuate with battery switch off to see if that fixes it while you look for a permanent fix?

Test it before you buy anything, this is a potential cause until verified.

 

[Beachbummer]

And..this is the new number, I think...
Yamaha GP1-68037-00-00 - Switch Assembly, Key : Yamaha Sports Plaza

 

[Big Daddy]

I bought and installed a new ignition switch today and the same problem exists..... no juice to start or stop!! Thinking it has to do with the lanyard "kill" connections??? What else can it be?

 

[Beachbummer]

Can you check if there is connectivity between the black and white wire when they is not in OFF (and with the battery switch off)? that's the "normal" way for the engine to be told to shut down because the lanyard is not on, or because the rear hatch door is open.

 

[Beachbummer]

Also, you also have a no start problem... What about cables connected to the battery? are you sure all cables are connected? There are several total on the ground side if you recently replaced it or disconnected maybe you missed one?

To Clarify...it seems for a time you could start the boat, but not shut down, and now you can't either start (obviously you can't also check shut down if you can't get it started) Is this accurate?

 

[Big Daddy]

Yes... you are correct. Engine worked fine.... started and stopped.... then problem shutting it down and now neither start nor stop! I switched the kill switches in the clean out plugs and the starboard engine starts and stops with key but nothing on the port side. I don't thinks its a missing battery cable because it was working fine at first?

 

[Beachbummer]

You should check continuity of the White and Black Wire as well as the Br wires that trigger the Neutral safety lockout. Both of those go to the clean out hatch. Make sure those cables show the right continuity to allow the boat to start. On the rear hatch switch Black and White together make the boat stop, they need to NOT touch each other to allow the boat to have ignition and start. The other Brown wires must touch each other/have continuity or the boat won't crank. This is the same circuit that forces the boat to start only in neutral. You can use this access point to test all these with a voltmeter on Resistance/Ohm settings while messing with the rear hatch switch.

 

[I_squared_r]

I had issues with the ignition switch on my AR192 after the rubber seal had come off the key and the salt water quickly destroyed the switch. The result was the boat wouldn't start. I was able to find a generic yamaha outboard switch at the local marine supply parts store and it worked perfectly. Maybe it will work the same for your boat.

 

[Beachbummer]

@Big Daddy Any updates? Do you need help figuring out the multi-meter? Best of Luck!

 

[Big Daddy]

I put this project on the back burner for a while but now getting ready to tackle the problem again! Situation still the same... I have a multi-meter but no clue how to test for continuity?? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Beachbummer]

Set it to Ohms or Omega symbol, and touch the leads. It will show a value close to zero if you separate the leads it will show 1 on the very left, or some other way to signify infinity... This means no connection.

If there are multiple options for Ohms, pick the one with the smallest scale (it may say 200,2000,20000,etc on the knob. For this use, pick the smallest number)

 

[Beachbummer]

This measures the resistance of the connection. We don't care so much for the value, but whether there is infinite resistance (cables not connected) or zero or very low resistance (cables are connected)

Practice with the tester first to see what it does, then try it on other stuff to practice. Aluminum foil, or set the scale higher and try it with your hands or skin. You are conductive too, but not as much as Cooper or aluminum

 

[Big Daddy]

Thanks.... I will try it out, practicing today and will be on the boat tomorrow. I should test the leads on the black, white and brown wires to the kill switch on the clean out plugs??

 

[Beachbummer]

Yes, and test the switches too, making sure they act as expected.