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I'm at a Loss! <trailer post lights don't work>

Bribo475

Active Member
Messages
25
Reaction score
20
Points
32
Location
Mandeville, LA
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
FSH Sport
Boat Length
21
I purchased and installed a pair of CE Smith lighted post guides over the weekend, but I can't get the post lights to work. I spiced the wiring for thelights into the Brown wire for the running lights on each side. I grounded the lights to the trailer. After install, the lights do not work on either side. My trailer lights all still work. I've rebuilt the spices on both sides just to be sure, and used new rings on the ground side. Continuity checks good from the taillight bulb sockets to the post lights, but the post lights never come on. Any ideas what to check? hard to believe both lights are bad, but not sure what else to check?

Thanks!
Brian
 
Did you get to bare metal for a ground on the trailer?
 
use voltmeter before finishing the wiring and confirm its a live connection
 
I purchased and installed a pair of CE Smith lighted post guides over the weekend, but I can't get the post lights to work. I spiced the wiring for thelights into the Brown wire for the running lights on each side. I grounded the lights to the trailer. After install, the lights do not work on either side. My trailer lights all still work. I've rebuilt the spices on both sides just to be sure, and used new rings on the ground side. Continuity checks good from the taillight bulb sockets to the post lights, but the post lights never come on. Any ideas what to check? hard to believe both lights are bad, but not sure what else to check?

Thanks!
Brian
What are you using to splice? The connectors they sent, butt connector or soldering?
 
Yes, they are LED post lights.
I used butt connectors the first time, but the second I used Solder Splices. That's what we always used in the military, so I trust them more. The ground is good, and tested with a multi-meter. Both lights came with the ground terminal on the black/white wire, and no connection on the black. I was wondering if they came backwards from the factory? Continuity is good from back to front and up to the post lights. My taillights (non LED) work perfectly. I would think if the splices were bad, I'd have trouble with the taillights too.
 
I'm not familiar with those lights, but do the guide lights only fire on brake/signal voltage maybe, vs. headlight(running) light voltage? Very strange problem indeed.
 
I believe they are supposed to work off the running lights and be on all the time. FWIW, they did not come on when I tested the lights after install to make sure everything else was working (IE Taillights, Brake Lights, Turn Signals). Everything else works, just no post lights. I'm going to call CE Smith and see if they can help.
 
When I wired up an "all-around' LED light. I couldn't figure out why a new light didn't work. until I reversed the wires... Apparently it matters.
My existing wires were both identical in color.

I wouldn't mix LED with incandescent lights. That may cause issues too.
I am by no means an expert just sharing my experiences.
 
Quick Update: checked with CE Smith, they suggested connecting the lights directly to a 12 V source, and if they don't light, then the lights themselves are bad. He said the LEDs come from China, and they do get some batches that are bad out of the box. After testing, if no joy, they will send me a new pair.
FWIW, they confirmed White/Black wire is ground, and all Black is Power. That's how I have them.
 
I've been intending to replace the incandescent taillights with sealed LEDs, but haven't pulled the trigger. Maybe now is the time to bite the bullet and do it since I'll be back under there anyway.
 
Most LED lights will work off of a 9 volt battery. I test each light I am about to install with one just to make sure the light works and the polarity is correct since most of this stuff is made in China. Hate to finish a project only to find that it doesn’t work because the lights were manufactured with the wire colors bass ackwards from the directions.
 
That's a great point about testing prior. I wish I had done so. I did talk to Chris at CE Smith, and they are sending new 2 new light kits to replace the bad ones. I will be sure to test those before they go on!
 
Well, I got the new lights from CE Smith, and tested them with the 9V battery. They do come on when hooked to the battery. Cut off the old lights, and installed the new ones. And.. They don't work on the trailer. The original lights do work when connected to the battery, so the original lights were good. No freaking clue why the lights won't work on the trailer. I used heat shrink butt splices to connect to the brown wire on each side. Tailights and side markers work fine. Same symptoms. My taillights are incandescent, but should it matter? 12 Volts is 12 volts
 
What are you grounding to?
 
I'm grounded to the bolts that attach the guide posts to the trailer. I was planning to run to the store later and get some short self tapping screws and screw directly into the trailer. Using an Ohmmeter I have 0 ohms resistance from the ring terminal to another part of the trailer. I've tried using different bolts on the trailer to ground to. I've not tried drilling into and connecting directly to the trailer, but that is the next step.
 
I'm grounded to the bolts that attach the guide posts to the trailer. I was planning to run to the store later and get some short self tapping screws and screw directly into the trailer. Using an Ohmmeter I have 0 ohms resistance from the ring terminal to another part of the trailer. I've tried using different bolts on the trailer to ground to. I've not tried drilling into and connecting directly to the trailer, but that is the next step.
I was having the same issue. Once I went right into the trailer, lights started working.
 
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