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Milky oil 1.8 NA Part 3 Engine Disassembly

14SX190

Jetboaters Lieutenant
Messages
726
Reaction score
627
Points
172
Location
South Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2014
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
19
So, in order to find out reason for contamination I went all out and glad I did.
Will feel confident I found problem on low compression on cyl#3 then #2 dropped.

Head is off to machinist to be re worked back to new for $250 plus parts.
Dealer was charging over 1k to take head off. Doubt they would of check block anode.

Have to get block water jackets clean next. Has crud stuck around cyl wall.

Need to find way to remove oil gear to replace TC while I'm at it.

Will keep updating as engine is reassembled
 

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We like pictures. Keep them coming. Is this engine exclusively in salt water?
 
We like pictures. Keep them coming. Is this engine exclusively in salt water?

I am 3rd owner if not 4th.
PO definitely ran salt as do I.

I hope others find thread useful and shows that anyone with right tools can fix their own boat/ski or at least diagnose. Doesn’t hurt to have neighbor who is Snap On dealer
Service manual Is a must and so is the micro fishe schematics.
 
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Compared to mine your cylinder head, cylinder block, and water jackets look to be in fantastic shape. My milky oil problem was a corrosion channel in the cylinder head between a water cooling passage and the top of cylinder#1.
 

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Update

Took off mid bearing and shaft has play but there are signs of water intrusion.

On the older VX the dampener was a single part. The housing and black ring are one. So I ordered new one since seal has salt behind it and pushing seal forward.

Will post pictures of head when it come back next week.

Looking at setting timing.
I'm not good at SM pictures and one liner.
Any suggestions or links to procedure of other pictures?
I don't have tools to remove old TC so I'm stuck for now.

Questing having dealer assemble head on block and replace TC since I dont have PTO tool of shaft holder. On other forum there was a tool request where person paid deposit until returned if anyone has it and interested in renting it out.

Also, clean cooling jacket. There's still some scale but small patches that are baked on. Its hard to see in picture but will attach if asked
 

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One wrong detail confirming suspicion motor had its bad days. My dipstick assembly #34 is below #35 not like in microfiche.
Not sure if that contributed to milky oil if water was getting through dipstick.

So much wrong.

Tally in parts for this so far including new reverse and throttle is about $800. To do pump was over $300
Not to bad to freshen up engine.
 

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How did the old head gasket look? Looking at the cylinder head in Post#1, It looks very wet. What is that about?
 
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How did the old head gasket look?

Only took that one
Just informed it is on BO.
Luckily a turbo shop near me has yamaha parts.


Can you see top of cylinder the brown scorn ring.
Not much I can do there?
 

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What is all the debris in the bottom right corner of the head gasket in Post # 8?
 
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What is all the debris in the bottom right corner?

New pictures
Top of piston and cylinder wall are covered in fluid flim
 

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So... I may be a bit confused. I thought you changed the oil a bunch and had gotten it to run clean (which is normal once there is water in the oil).

Then you disassembled the engine in search of the source of the water intrusion. Along the way you found the anode mess. Great teaching point there; will have to check mine.

Great pics and very informative. Great breakdown of the engine. But I have not seen anything yet that suggests that the initial water was not from a flooding event. Am I missing something?
 
So... I may be a bit confused. I thought you changed the oil a bunch and had gotten it to run clean (which is normal once there is water in the oil).

Then you disassembled the engine in search of the source of the water intrusion. Along the way you found the anode mess. Great teaching point there; will have to check mine.

Great pics and very informative. Great breakdown of the engine. But I have not seen anything yet that suggests that the initial water was not from a flooding event. Am I missing something?

I don't know history and PO was not forthcoming when I got it about end of May. It was flooded by deduction after the fact.
You are correct. Abused neglected in maintenance all the way.

I did everything at water test but check oil.
Tried boat once after water test and discovered milky oil. Never checked oil. Dumb of me and totally and kicking me in the ass
After 2nd flush and thinking everything was good, it came back but was toothpaste in color on oil cap and thick sludgy oil.
That started my exploratory deeper expedition removing intake/head and seeing signs of clogged cooling jacket thanks to anode.
Pictures were attached of valves and the one side of head gasket. Looks abused and neglected.

So a freshen up is in order. Machinist said he'll make head new again and bring back the lost of compression in #3 and after 2nd trip cyl#2 dropped 10% indicating the bad head gasket.
Hopefully the cleaning of anode blockage in block, leaky exhaust valves in head, new head gasket all new seals and o'rings I solve the Milky oil

If it had water or moisture in it, it's all out by now. I hope
 
Ok, good. See, 5 changes before you have flushed the milky oil is totally normal for a flooding event. If there was only milk after the 2nd change, that would be completely consistent.

So there are likely 2 issues here: the likely flooding and then an older engine (loss of compression, etc.) being refurbished. Just don't want people following this thread to think this is all of what they need to do if there is milky oil. We will have scores of people pulling off heads!

Still love the pics, so please, keep posting!
 
Ok, good. See, 5 changes before you have flushed the milky oil is totally normal for a flooding event. If there was only milk after the 2nd change, that would be completely consistent.

So there are likely 2 issues here: the likely flooding and then an older engine (loss of compression, etc.) being refurbished. Just don't want people following this thread to think this is all of what they need to do if there is milky oil. We will have scores of people pulling off heads!

Still love the pics, so please, keep posting!

I hope they don't jump Part1 and Part 2 of ongoing thread where I tried the oil flush but it came back.
I would recommend to anyone who has Milky oil taking off Oil Cooler with 3 bolts and making your on pressure tester is super easy and not difficult at all. If it returns and oil cooler has passed pressure test the next course of action was disassembly to find bigger issue as I did.

May be do something worthy of adding to FAQ.
 
Update.

Head back from machinist
He pointed out where gasket lifted near oil galley
 

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The old TC has a bind in the link shown along tile.

All other links move freely but that one
 

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