- Messages
- 1,561
- Reaction score
- 891
- Points
- 247
- Location
- Ottawa, Canada
- Boat Make
- Scarab
- Year
- 2015
- Boat Model
- 165 G
- Boat Length
- 16
As a new Scarab boat owner, this post is worth your time. Please take a few minutes to read this before posting. I don’t want to discourage conversations, but after years of supporting Scarab boat owners, I’m familiar with all the typical questions and problems people have.
This post isn’t about covering everything, but hopefully it proves useful.
You got yourself a Scarab, congrats! You can’t wait to get on the water or have already. You’re running the engine out of water to troubleshoot because it’s a “new to you” boat. Let’s start with the immediate MISTAKES new owners commonly make. Let’s PREVENT you causing some issues.
1. If you suck something up, under NO circumstances should you attempt to remove the intake grate under the boat. The bolts look removable but they aren't and you’ll cause a slow leak that is VERY difficult to fix. It requires that you go UNDER the engine to reach the nuts that are covered in silicone permanently.
2. When flushing your engine or running the engine out of water it’s important to follow proper procedures.
Engine ON, water ON, water OFF, engine OFF in THAT order.
In essence, no water pressure unless the engine is running. Without engine back pressure from the exhaust, it's possible to get water inside the engine which is called hydrolocking. The water can work its way UP the exhaust system all the way inside.
Never run the engine out of water for more than 2 min, ideally below 1 min.
There is an important seal called a carbon seal (sometimes called a carbon ring, drive shaft seal, etc.) where the drive shaft exits the hull to reach the impeller which is inside a tunnel where the pump is located. The carbon seal is only water cooled when the boat is sitting in water. The hose to the flush port won't do it.
3. If you break down and have to get towed, keep it very slow (under 5 mp/h / 8 km/h) unless you clamp the correct hose or hoses depending on your engine. I recommend identifying these ahead of time with flashy tape. Keep a hose clamp or two of the right size in the boat. Here's the diagram
Tow Clamp Diagram.png
4. I highly recommend reading the BRP Operator's Guide. You'll learn tons!
BRP GUIDES
Select Rotax>JPS>Two letter code where AA = 2014 and up, engine HP.
Your engine is made by BRP which is essentially the same engine as used in a Sea-Doo PWC. MANY components are identical, but many others are NOT the same.
5. Scarab also has a manual for the boat Scarab specific components. Look at the bottom of their page to find the owner's manual section. Good read but not as important as the BRP one. Scarab does NOT make your engine. They make the hull, all the accessories, and parts that interface the engine to the boat.
This post isn’t about covering everything, but hopefully it proves useful.
You got yourself a Scarab, congrats! You can’t wait to get on the water or have already. You’re running the engine out of water to troubleshoot because it’s a “new to you” boat. Let’s start with the immediate MISTAKES new owners commonly make. Let’s PREVENT you causing some issues.
1. If you suck something up, under NO circumstances should you attempt to remove the intake grate under the boat. The bolts look removable but they aren't and you’ll cause a slow leak that is VERY difficult to fix. It requires that you go UNDER the engine to reach the nuts that are covered in silicone permanently.
2. When flushing your engine or running the engine out of water it’s important to follow proper procedures.
Engine ON, water ON, water OFF, engine OFF in THAT order.
In essence, no water pressure unless the engine is running. Without engine back pressure from the exhaust, it's possible to get water inside the engine which is called hydrolocking. The water can work its way UP the exhaust system all the way inside.
Never run the engine out of water for more than 2 min, ideally below 1 min.
There is an important seal called a carbon seal (sometimes called a carbon ring, drive shaft seal, etc.) where the drive shaft exits the hull to reach the impeller which is inside a tunnel where the pump is located. The carbon seal is only water cooled when the boat is sitting in water. The hose to the flush port won't do it.
3. If you break down and have to get towed, keep it very slow (under 5 mp/h / 8 km/h) unless you clamp the correct hose or hoses depending on your engine. I recommend identifying these ahead of time with flashy tape. Keep a hose clamp or two of the right size in the boat. Here's the diagram
Tow Clamp Diagram.png
4. I highly recommend reading the BRP Operator's Guide. You'll learn tons!
BRP GUIDES
Select Rotax>JPS>Two letter code where AA = 2014 and up, engine HP.
Your engine is made by BRP which is essentially the same engine as used in a Sea-Doo PWC. MANY components are identical, but many others are NOT the same.
5. Scarab also has a manual for the boat Scarab specific components. Look at the bottom of their page to find the owner's manual section. Good read but not as important as the BRP one. Scarab does NOT make your engine. They make the hull, all the accessories, and parts that interface the engine to the boat.
