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New To Me 2005 AR210 Two Stroke Help

Hoppy

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
179
Reaction score
526
Points
142
Location
North Platte, Nebraska
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2003
Boat Model
LX
Boat Length
21
So I just bought this 2005 AR210 and I'm assuming this is the correct form because it is the two stroke and most like the LX210. The boat is in good shape only some small chips in the gelcoat and small tares in the upholstery. The previous owners lost an oil line and had a shop install a SBT engine, eliminate the oil injection, and rebuild the carbs. The SBT engine has not even been broken in an still has a year and a half warranty remaining. All six cylinders show 120psi of compression and I ran it for a short time on a hose it did not run very smooth but I'm not sure what is normal. So the questions so far are:

1. The new engine has water leaking out between the cylinders and the exhaust when running on the hose from the gasket is there any tricks to get that to seal? The gasket looked fine when I disassembled it, SBT recommends coating it with copper gasket adhesive and there was no trace of any on it. So far I'm not Impressed with the shop that did the work there is no way they ran this engine and missed this leak along with finding multiple bolts that were overtightened and damaged threads.

2. I intend on reinstalling oil injection (with new lines and filters) I have found the most of what I need on Ebay I may still need hold down straps for the oil tank and one blead valve that was not pictured so I don't know if it will come with??? Is there a rebuild kit for the oil pumps available anywhere or should I worry about rebuilding the replacement ones if they work? From what I understand the pumps never fail only the lines.

3. I'm concerned with the quality of work of the shop that installed the engine it has me questioning the quality of there carburetor rebuilds, any suggestions on that?

4. Has anyone converted the tower to fold down? I have some thoughts on doing it but if someone has done it already I would appreciate pictures and ideas.

5. The back middle seat cushion is missing I can not find one on ebay has anyone got a place to look? I'm sure I could make one or have one made but thought I would ask.

6. Has anyone got any tips on preventing the windshield hatches from getting broke? The ones I have are near perfect but they look so easy to break, I'm thinking of adding a grab bar to the side of the console to give people a place to put there hands. Some way to reinforce them would be good I think.

7. Is there a suggested hour meter to add to this boat?

8. Is there any commonly neglected maintenance I should look at specific for this model of jet boat.

Thank You to all, I'm sure I will have more questions.

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Clean boat I had one that had an exhaust manifold leak is that whats leaking ? I did remove reinstalled a new one with the Cooper gasket sealer and the leak stopped maybe the shop didn't clean off the old gasket material leaving an uneven surface
 
I’d get the leak fixed and see how it runs then worry about the carbs. But I’d be suspect of their work too.

make sure the plastic scupper valve has been replaced.
 
Clean boat I had one that had an exhaust manifold leak is that whats leaking ? I did remove reinstalled a new one with the Cooper gasket sealer and the leak stopped maybe the shop didn't clean off the old gasket material leaving an uneven surface

Ya I would call it the manifold partzilla calls it the muffler, I took it apart the manifold is flat the block has some warp to it. My precision strait edge will rock back and forth on the surface and I (with my wifes help) can get a .006 feeler gauge to fit under the end where it was leaking. I'm not sure what the specs are on it but that seems like a lot for a 13" span. Is there a free downloadable service manual available for this boat available on line?
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I’d get the leak fixed and see how it runs then worry about the carbs. But I’d be suspect of their work too.

make sure the plastic scupper valve has been replaced.

On the carbs, I'm suspecting that the rear cylinder may not be getting fuel/oil, looking inside the cylinders with the manifold off there is a lot less oil on the cylinder wall of the rear cylinder compared to the front two, also the short time I had it running I could feel heat in the front two spark plugs after I killed the engine no heat on the rear spark plug. I don't think any damage has been done yet as it has good compression but something is defiantly wrong.

The scupper valve, yes it still has a plastic one. I was thinking I should replace it also just did not want to spend the money but you have inspired me to do so is this the one to go with? It looks to be the right one and will fit to me.

 
I found a manual for a GP1200 for some engine specs and as attached it shows .004 max for the cylinder head warpage limit I will have to assume the exhaust manifold ports warpage limit is similar and I measure .006. I'm thinking I will call SBT and get there recommendation on what is allowable because it is there engine.

Anyone have a link for a free downloadable service manual for a 2005 Yamaha AR210?


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I found a manual for a GP1200 for some engine specs and as attached it shows .004 max for the cylinder head warpage limit I will have to assume the exhaust manifold ports warpage limit is similar and I measure .006. I'm thinking I will call SBT and get there recommendation on what is allowable because it is there engine.

Anyone have a link for a free downloadable service manual for a 2005 Yamaha AR210?


View attachment 182857
Here’s a service manual for all lst1200 boats through 2003. All the ls/lx/ar boats were the same hull.

your 05 should be pretty much the same specs.

 
I visited with SBT this morning about my block to exhaust manifold water leak due to the engine sealing surface not being flat and they are going to warranty the engine. Any one got tips on removing the pto coupler from the crank? The SBT guide shows putting a rag in the exhaust port and a chain wrench on the coupler and unscrewing it counter clockwise. It dose not want to move I'm starting to get concerned I will damage the crank trying to remove it, I guess if I do it is a no fault warranty... The service manual only shows being torqued to 27 ft/lbs with Loctite it is defiantly tighter than that.
 
I visited with SBT this morning about my block to exhaust manifold water leak due to the engine sealing surface not being flat and they are going to warranty the engine. Any one got tips on removing the pto coupler from the crank? The SBT guide shows putting a rag in the exhaust port and a chain wrench on the coupler and unscrewing it counter clockwise. It dose not want to move I'm starting to get concerned I will damage the crank trying to remove it, I guess if I do it is a no fault warranty... The service manual only shows being torqued to 27 ft/lbs with Loctite it is defiantly tighter than that.
Never mind i got it, used the rag in a cylinder, straped it to the bench, chain wrench with cheater pipe, heated pto with heat gun for 5 minutes, held torque on the cheater pipe, and smacked the cheater with my dead blow hammer.
 
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