No Wake Engine Code

[VONCE]

I finally checked my codes to see why my check engine lights were on. The codes on both engines were for the No Wake Mode switch. I recently replaced all of the switches in the boat. I never really use one engine more than another, and every time I turn on no wake mode I simultaneously turn it on both engines. Because of this, I just combined both into one switch. I got a momentary double pole (two separate circuits) switch. I tested the old switch with my multimeter, and it simply connects the two wires that go into the switch. So I thought my new switch would work fine since it operates the same way. The fancy Yamaha diagnostic software has a live engine monitor, and the no wake switch was something you can monitor live. The new switch in its current setup seems to be working fine. It's off until the switch is pressed. Once the switch is pressed, the monitor shows it is on. I deleted the code. Well, I still have my check engine light when I start the engine. The code comes right back. Any ideas?

 

[buckbuck]

When you push the switch do you see the encoder reporting back the 40 steps.

 

[VONCE]

Sorry, but I'm not real sure what that means. I just opened the program, went to the engine diagnostics screen, scrolled down to the no wake mode switch, and watched it cycle from off to on when I pressed the switch. There is also another menu of "diagnosis" and the no wake switch was on there - it showed a "normal" status.

 

[VONCE]

I still have the old switches. I plugged one in and started the engine. No check engine light and I have the same status of the switch on the software. If I leave the wires unplugged (or use the new switch) I get the check engine light. The original switches have 4 pins, but only two wires hook up to the switch. I was assuming these switches were just a simple switch that connects the two wires together (and did a simple resistance check with my multimeter to confirm), but these troubleshooting tests tell me there might be more to these old switches than what meets the eye. Maybe I'll take apart an old switch and see how it works. I hope they are still available to order if I break it!

 

[VONCE]

Sure enough! There's a little resistor or something in the old switch. I'm trying to get a grasp on how this switch works but I'm confusing myself. It looks like that resistor leaves the two wires connected all the time, and when you press the switch it allows full resistance-less connectivity. I guess I'm going to somehow have to incorporate a resistor in my new switch.

 

[2nazt]

@Mainah is a wiz with this and may provide some insight on this. Interested to hear as well.

Is there a diagram on the back of the switch you could also post to help with diagnosing?

 

[Scottintexas]

was your old no wake switches functioning properly and you just had a the light going off or were you not able to enter no wake mode,
the no wake functionality is very sensitive to battery condition,

 

[Mainah]

Yep looks like a 4.1k ohm resistor with a 5% tolerance (if I am picking up the color codes right) that provides a different resistance across the two poles depending on the position of the switch. I have seen this kind of thing in the past when wiring aftermarket car alarms/auto starters into factory door lock switches. It is just a fancy way of of a computer determining when a rocker switch is pressed one way or the other with only two wires. You can wire your own inline resistors to do the same thing.

 

[VONCE]

There is no diagram on the switch. The old switches were functioning fine. I re-did the dash and added a bunch of new illuminating switches and red LEDs and all that fancy stuff. I still have to get everything installed and cleaned up, then I'll take better pictures and make a post for that (and some other winter mods) at a later time. All of my new switches illuminate red when the nav lights are on, so I got a new double pole No Wake momentary switch (to operate both engines at the same time using the two separate poles) since the old one had no illumination. I did some more tests with my multimeter and I agree with @Mainah regarding the size of the resistor. That's what I found when researching the colors and testing with the multimeter. My local Radio Shack doesn't have any in stock, but I ordered some online. When the switch is off, there is 4.72k ohm resistance across the two terminals the wires connect to. This means those wires are always "connected" to each other with said resistance. When the switch is pressed, the resistance drops to 0 and there is no resistance. On the new switch, I think simply jumping the two terminals for the circuit (the terminals the no wake harness connects to) with that same resistor should correct my problem. There will be a constant 4.72k resisted connection across the wires at all times, and then a full resistance-less connection when the switch is pressed. Does all this make any sense? Clear as mud? I know 12v electric systems, but I'm definitely no electronic engineer. Most of my 12v education comes from years of trial, error, experience, and mistakes! Additionally, my battery is new and fully charged. I think I even still had it hooked up to the charger when doing these tests. I'll keep everyone posted with the result. I didn't realize people were interested in this. I hope I can get it to work because I personally love my new dash setup. The red looks really cool and the switches are a lot easier to read, especially in the dark. Plus these switches weren't cheap... But stay tuned for pictures!

 

[tdonoughue]

They do this so that the circuit is self-diagnosing. If they didn't do it this way, then the computer would have no way to tell the difference between the switch being disconnected and the switch being just unpressed. With the resistor in there, the computer can check for the resistor resistance, infinity resistance (switch closed) or no resistance (circuit is open and there is a problem).

 

[VONCE]

No more check engine light! I got a resistor with the specs mentioned above from Radio Shack (part number 2711330). I just wired it between the two wires that connect to the no wake switch (essentially connecting the two wires together constantly). Not sure if polarity matters, but I wired it the same way the original was wired with the gold band (painted on the resistor for identification) closest to the blue no wake wire. Everything works! Now, time to get this dash back together so I can show y'all some pictures of these switches and get this boat ready for water!

 

[tdonoughue]

(there is no polarity on a resistor--so you are good)

Nicely done. Good investigative work!