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Part 5 End of Milky Oil New Cylinder Head

14SX190

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Well after months of waiting new 1400 cylinder head is otw with 2day delivery from Yamaha Parts, Suzuki Parts, Husqvarna Parts Online

Next step is talk with machine shop to reinstall valves springs retainers and new seats from one to other. He will do the new cam shims as well.
His rate is $350 plus parts.
He suggested cutting the vavle guides be machined flat.
Any thoughts? His was at high rpm stem vibrates and breaks piece sticking out in port.

Will post pictures of new cylinder when it arrives

Fingers crossed.
 

Scottintexas

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Valve guides are not typically machined "flat" as they're a round bore inside and outside. I'd personally make sure the guides meet spec and clean them up and then cut the seats along with making absolute sure the head surface is flat too which may require fly cutting.
 

14SX190

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That new head
this sounds like a @Canuckjetboater or @the MfM question,
Any insight would be great

Valve guides are not typically machined "flat" as they're a round bore inside and outside. I'd personally make sure the guides meet spec and clean them up and then cut the seats along with making absolute sure the head surface is flat too which may require fly cutting.
Its brand new. I hope/expect the bottom has been fly cut from factory or at least suggest to machinist a pass to check or may be take a few .001/.01(not sure tolerances) to squeeze a few hp's more with a shave?
Are there other tricks that could be done to cyl head to increase a few hp's with IN/EX ports or valve's clearances?

At this point I’d say the only answers is that it’s time for a two stroke swap.
Even those are gone. I loved and would of stayed with my 95 717 Sea Doo XP. Progress is a bitch.
 

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Update

New head pictures .
Spoke to machinist and his rate plus valve seats is $390.
He will re shim 16 x $10 minus the labor is $190 is not bad and he comes recommended from mechanic doing install and TC.

New info on shaving stem guide is in case of failure guides pieces won't go into their turbo set up. It valve is going to drop it would cause less pieces going through motor.

I opted uncut.
 

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Sbrown

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Personally, I would've had him cut the guides to sit flush or close to flush inside the ports.
 

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Personally, I would've had him cut the guides to sit flush or close to flush inside the ports.

Why? I can call him tomorrow if you can elaborate. Does it also cause them to stick and leak compression.
 

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Why? I can call him tomorrow if you can elaborate. Does it also cause them to stick and leak compression.
I would do it simply to reduce restriction in the port, if for no other reason. However, I am also in agreement with your machinist in that an unsupported cast iron valve guide is prone to cracking and breaking and depositing metal bits in places you really don't want random metal bits to be. To answer your second question, A. No I dont think it will make them prone to sticking, but point B, If the random metal pieces get between a valve and its seat, then there would be a definite loss of compression.
 

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My old head the IN were brass color but EX look like aluminum(unsupported) nubs but I could be wrong. They definitely looked different.
I'll try to upload pictures.

You can see new ones from the top.

The new one IN and EX both look like brass guides.
 

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Sbrown

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They're not brass, they're usually bronze or cast iron. Bronze is better. Either way, I would trim them back.
 

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Although, if they're bronze the risk of them coming apart is MUCH less.
 

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Personally, I would've had him cut the guides to sit flush or close to flush inside the ports.

Went cut guides.
I guess its knowing if valve drops, I won't be looking for fragments from guide as pieces of a valve if it was to be ingested by motor before being spit out through exhaust. I like the least resistance/friction it can have on valve.

Ill update when I get head back with pictures and if I get install and TC.

Hopefully I'll be able to post up video cruising IC and report no more milky oil next.
 

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You must be careful about shortening the guide. The shorter you make the guide, the more prone to the valve not running straight at high RPM. In terms of doing it for flow, there are better ways to scientifically blend the port than shortening the guide.
 

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Its alive
:singing:

New head installed with new head bolts new HG properly torqued with proper timing this time.

New mechanic is was great and worth wait to have him do install.

compression he said were all over 180.

Tuesday is the big day.
 

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