-
Welcome to Jetboaters.net!
We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!
Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)
Replacing steering cables on a 2008 Yamaha SX 230 jet boat
- Thread starter mark clemm
- Start date
- Tagged users None
- Messages
- 7,076
- Reaction score
- 6,009
- Points
- 527
- Location
- Naples Florida
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2005
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
Use the other to fish back a pull rope then pull both through at one time.
bronze_10
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 4,672
- Reaction score
- 4,643
- Points
- 387
- Location
- Raleigh / Wake Forest Area..
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
Sounds like u gonna have to get the fuel hatch up... No way around it.
captainhook
Jetboaters Captain
- Messages
- 911
- Reaction score
- 697
- Points
- 217
- Location
- Southern Maryland
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- Limited
- Boat Length
- 23
Having just tackled this and this thread being in the FAQs, I thought I’d add a few tips I learned.
First, the nut that holds the steering cable in is recessed so you need a special wrench. I found some mentions here of people using a 22MM O2 socket, which I had and it worked well. Nice to use the socket again that I used one single time to install headers on my GTO about ten years ago. I did take one jet pump off and that side was easier but it is not totally necessary to do so.
Socket
Here’s the side with the pump removed:
With it still on:
I also bought two couplers so that I could attach the new cables to the old to pull them through. I can’t remember the size but I just took one of the new nuts that functions as a lock nut to the hardware store and found the right size. They were $4. The thread on one of the old cables was slightly marred up at the end somehow so I was only able to use the coupler with one cable which worked well. The one that didn’t work I used duct tape and zip ties, which also worked well. I had anticipated a lot more difficulty and thought I was going to have to pull a lot harder but once you push the end with the nut on it through, it pulls pretty easily. It helps if you have someone help you, I didn’t have any help but it would’ve been easier if I had another set of hands to feed the new cable through.
Here’s how I attached the two cables together without the coupler:
And finally, wrap the ends of the cables (new and old) so you don’t put a hole in your vinyl or scratch anything up. The cables end up all over the boat during the pulling.
First, the nut that holds the steering cable in is recessed so you need a special wrench. I found some mentions here of people using a 22MM O2 socket, which I had and it worked well. Nice to use the socket again that I used one single time to install headers on my GTO about ten years ago. I did take one jet pump off and that side was easier but it is not totally necessary to do so.
Socket
Here’s the side with the pump removed:
With it still on:
I also bought two couplers so that I could attach the new cables to the old to pull them through. I can’t remember the size but I just took one of the new nuts that functions as a lock nut to the hardware store and found the right size. They were $4. The thread on one of the old cables was slightly marred up at the end somehow so I was only able to use the coupler with one cable which worked well. The one that didn’t work I used duct tape and zip ties, which also worked well. I had anticipated a lot more difficulty and thought I was going to have to pull a lot harder but once you push the end with the nut on it through, it pulls pretty easily. It helps if you have someone help you, I didn’t have any help but it would’ve been easier if I had another set of hands to feed the new cable through.
Here’s how I attached the two cables together without the coupler:
And finally, wrap the ends of the cables (new and old) so you don’t put a hole in your vinyl or scratch anything up. The cables end up all over the boat during the pulling.
Michael Bulaon
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 50
- Boat Make
- Boatless
- Year
- NA
- Boat Model
- Other
- Boat Length
- NA
What should be used to seal the new cables at the stern?
captainhook
Jetboaters Captain
- Messages
- 911
- Reaction score
- 697
- Points
- 217
- Location
- Southern Maryland
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- Limited
- Boat Length
- 23
I just had to do this again having uncovered my boat for the year and could barely turn the steering wheel. I could not find the Seastar cables for a reasonable price. In 2018 they were $240 shipped for both, everything I could find now was like $350+ for the pair.
I saw someone posted to always check SBT for parts so I did and noticed they had a different part number which was F0R-U1470-00-00. I almost ordered from them because they were free shipping but decided to Google the part number and found several sellers with replacement parts made by Promarine. The Promarine part number is 3-12-F0RU147R and I found them on eBay for $127.25 each with free shipping. The total with tax was $269.77 and they were delivered via FedEx in three days from Florida. I was a little concerned when I got them today because they are gray and corrugated not black and smooth like OEM/Seastar, but they worked very good. The gray jacket is a little thicker than the black Seastar jacket so I had to use a coupler to connect new and old and fit it through the hole in the clean out tray. I tried taping them together like I did last time but the bundle was too thick to fit through the hole.
It took about four hours and this time I didn’t have the difficulty I did last time where one side was barely long enough to fit into the fork thing at the nozzles. I had plenty of length this time despite these being 17’ just like the Seastar.
I saw someone posted to always check SBT for parts so I did and noticed they had a different part number which was F0R-U1470-00-00. I almost ordered from them because they were free shipping but decided to Google the part number and found several sellers with replacement parts made by Promarine. The Promarine part number is 3-12-F0RU147R and I found them on eBay for $127.25 each with free shipping. The total with tax was $269.77 and they were delivered via FedEx in three days from Florida. I was a little concerned when I got them today because they are gray and corrugated not black and smooth like OEM/Seastar, but they worked very good. The gray jacket is a little thicker than the black Seastar jacket so I had to use a coupler to connect new and old and fit it through the hole in the clean out tray. I tried taping them together like I did last time but the bundle was too thick to fit through the hole.
It took about four hours and this time I didn’t have the difficulty I did last time where one side was barely long enough to fit into the fork thing at the nozzles. I had plenty of length this time despite these being 17’ just like the Seastar.