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Retrieving my boat, HELP what am I doing wrong?

njmr2fan

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Ive had to winch my boat in from 1-3' the last couple times ive retrieved it out of the water. I know everyone says this is not good practice and thats why Im asking for help.

Am i not coming in fast enough to drive the boat up the bunks? I usually leave about 18" out of the water as i was instructed by a better boater than I. Should I have them almost completely covered? They frown on powering onto the bunks once your on.

So what am I doing wrong?
 

sysinu

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I prefer to winch in... I usually winch 4'. Back the boat in so the fenders are just under the water, slowly bring the boat onto the trailer, attach the winch and bring in the slack, back the truck up another foot and winch it the rest of the way in.

You may be on a very low pitched boat ramp that isn't really steep and because of that you're getting more contact from your bunks. I've heard of people putting stuff on their bunks (lubing them up) to help with this.
 

Murf'n'surf

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If you don't want to power on then you'll need to put those bunks under the water a good 12" in order to float on easy.
 

itsdgm

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@njmr2fan sounds to me like you just need to back the trailer in a bit further. Sometimes I start with the trailer backed in on ours with about 12" of bunks showing. Then after I get the boat most of the way on the trailer, I'll have my wife back up the trailer a few feet more in order to get the boat (power loaded) up to the bow stop. But everything is dependent on boat model, ramp, etc. So results may vary.
 

njmr2fan

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Thanks. I'll try sinking the trailer lower. Maybe leave 8" on top of water instead of 12-18. I usually come up to it in wake1. Maybe I need wake2? I still get pretty nervous since I haven't even broken 10 launches/retrievals and don't want to crash into the trailer sides. Maybe just more practice...
 

H2OBoy

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I generally will back my trailer with just the very tops of the fenders showing out of the water. This gets me within a foot or so of the bow roller. I then either power on or winch the rest of the way. If I go much further into the water with the trailer the boat tends to float around and will not always center on the bunks.

Also I tend to come in initially at the first "no wake" mode then back to idle speed.
 

Bruce

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I find that perfect positioning varies by ramp. I always completely submerge the bunks to get them wet then pull forward. I typically look for the fenders to be just under the water. I want to have the tips of the bunks just out of the water to stop the boat if it comes in too fast. I typically crank it on while Rana gives it a little throttle.
 

Scottintexas

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I usually come up to it in wake1. Maybe I need wake2? ..
faster IS NOT the answer, remember never drive faster than you want to hit something, nothing wrong with winching and every trailer and ramp is different so just keep experimenting,
 

smthng

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Get some Liquid Roller on those bunks... it'll help a lot. Depending on the boat and trailer, you might find that backing up too far can get the roller over the bow. On mine, the sweet spot seems to be fenders barely but completely submerged, bunks slicked up with liquid roller every few weeks, winch however far I need to if I'm not a concrete ramp where people are powerloading. If any one of those isn't right, it's major effort or lots of maneuvering.

I would NOT recommend coming in faster... it's REALLY easy to have some outside factor (like wind or current) swing the back around, causing you to miss the roller and gash your boat. I always get the boat on the bunks first, then I worry about getting the boat on the bunks straight first, then I worry about winching/powerloading.
 

LTM1964

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I have read the instructions not to winch the boat onto the trailer also but I don't find that practical. Two weeks ago I backed the trailer in to where the bunks entirely submerged but just barely. My wife was still able to drive the boat straight to the trailer. I tightened the strap and hooked the chain. As I drove out of the water, I saw the boat shift a little in my mirrors, but I didn't think it was a problem. When I got to the parking lot, I noticed that one of the hull ribs was on a bunk and this boat is too heavy for me to jerk it over by hand. I had to go back to the ramp and dunk the boat three times to get it to settle in. That is too much trouble. I am going to go back to leaving just a small amount of bunk showing. That gives my wife a better target to aim for when approaching the trailer and I don't think I am putting too much tension on the winch while cranking in about two feet of strap. Other than not needing to power on, my method is very similar to H20Boy above.

I am guessing that the no winch recommendation is to reduce the manufacturer's liability if you were to winch with a frayed strap or you attempted to winch at an angle or length that required an unreasonable amount of force on the handle, winch, and strap.
 

justason

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The positioning of the fenders and the ramp angle are all key here, totally agree. When I'm at a shallow ramp, or one that has massive sand buildup making it level, I have to power on. Once out of the water if the bow isnt snug against the roller I do a quick brake and the boat slides forward, Re-adjust all the straps.........welded bow stop here is a plus too.

if doing heavy winching evaluate the winch strap often...great candidate for sun rot in those last 12".....I replaced mine this year.

I DO NOT use any fluids on my bunks. If you decide to use anything I recommend NOT removing any straps until that boat is as close to the water as possible. I've seen boats slide right off the bunks and scratch up the pavement.......wasn't very good to the fiberglass either......same with extraction. I engage the boat buckles immediately.
 

McMark

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I just barely submerge my fenders to just barely having the fender tops out of the water. Walk my boat onto the bunks, then winch on. I only drive it on when there's not an option. Idle in then winch up.

Why no winching?
 

smthng

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Just my opinions based on two totally different Yamaha boats on three different trailers...

Why no winching for me... it's a really heavy boat and breaking that winch strap on a ramp means you're fairly well hosed. That's why I try to winch as little as possible and I use Liquid Roller on the front bunks. If I can power up gently, I do. If not, I get the front bunks to where they're holding the boat and winch up as much as I can. If I can't get all the way without serious effort, I'll make sure the bow is over the roller and back down an inch or two and try again. Too deep and the rear won't engage, which gets you a crooked boat on the back bunks. Trailer guides help this issue immensely and I'm probably going that route soon. General observation: Boats with the front "square nose" (mostly 21' and 24' - usually ones with a ladder) are much harder to get right.

I never had a problem with my LX... Back in to any depth, float off, drive on, was dirt simple. The 212X is a hassle and has been since day one. The boat hangs on the middle of the front bunks no matter what I do, how deep it is or the ramp angle. Without Liquid Roller or lots of power, it's just not going on. My friend's SX240 is similar and hits the trailer the same way, but doesn't hang up as much. Of course, it weighs way more and doesn't like being winched at all.

As for straps, when unloading, I leave the safety hook through the bow eye and will loosen the winch strap slightly, but leave it engaged and ratcheting so it won't spool out. I've never had the boat slide back until it's well in the water, even with the Liquid Roller. Loosening the winch strap slightly lets the back end float without pulling the strap or digging the nose into the roller, but still keeps it attached to the trailer should a wake, wind or sudden stop try to get it free.
 

McMark

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I expected you to tell me about folks eye pulling out of the hull. Sad part is that I wouldn't have been surprised :)
 

Christian Rodriguez

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I just barely submerge my fenders to just barely having the fender tops out of the water. Walk my boat onto the bunks, then winch on. I only drive it on when there's not an option. Idle in then winch up.

Why no winching?
I do exactly the same. I've only driven on once at a lake where there was no dock, and last week when I got my cobra jets to see how much the steering improved. I would always lose the stern when slowing down and I'm not one who likes to bounce around on the bunks. I might continue to drive it on now but will not power up to the bow stop, winch it up :thumbsup:
 

Eurocat

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I don't exactly power on, but I give just a little touch once it is lined up and almost touching the bunks. I am usually never more than 6 inch away from the roller, and normally I place the chain on and winch it a little. Once on lvl ground and out od the ramp. then I place the rear straps and finish tightening the front.
I normally submerge the trailer until the fenders on the wheels are almost completely submerged. Which is the same as only a couple of inches of the bunks out of the water.
 
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