Scarab Mechanic Needed East Centre Florida

[JoeScarab]

I have a 2014 195HO Impulse with code P0524 and an oil pressure alarm when I go over 3k rpm. The boat has a completely new drivetrain, only 9 hours. It also has a charging issue but the stator and regulator are new.

If there someone who knows these boats and willing to work on mine please let me know. Thanks!

Also, if anyone would like to buy the boat (with these issues) I’m open to making a good deal.

 

[Jet Boat Tom]

Whats your "Good Deal" Price?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Check your oil filter install. Check your oil level. If both of those are good, I'd consider checking your oil pressure sensor.

 

[JoeScarab]

Whats your "Good Deal" Price?

I see you are in Northern Michigan, and I'm here in Florida, if you are seriously interested I'd be more than happy to chat with you. The boat has over $8k of new parts including the motor and it is in great shape and has a Magic Tilt trailer. You can email me directly at jaddalia@gmail.com if you'd like.

 

[JoeScarab]

Check your oil filter install. Check your oil level. If both of those are good, I'd consider checking your oil pressure sensor.

Thank you for taking the time to reply to me. The filter and gaskets are new and check fine. Oil level is in the middle of the notch and checked while sitting in the water. Do you know if there's a way to check the sensor? It was just replaced but maybe it has gone bad again.

Also, do you know if a bad sensor would put a drain on charing? It seems like it's running on just the battery.

Thanks again for your time and thoughts!

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Various details attached.

It's based on resistance... so I don't see how it could drain your battery.

 

[JoeScarab]

Thank you, great info again! Would you know or mind pointing me to the part number for the sensor?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

http://epc.brp.com/

Get your engine model number.

Then select Rotax JPS>AA=2014, AB=2015 and so on>Amount HP>Engine type with cat or without>Crankcase

Presumably part #31. Part BRP#0462493

But please double check this.

Keep this site for future reference.

 

[JoeScarab]

Thanks again, you’re a huge help. I can’t seem to find 0462493 but I recently replaced it with this part:

Amazon.com

Do you know where I can find a cross-reference chart or website? Or do you know if the part I have is correct?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Sorry, can't confirm. But yes, it really looks like it's the same part and matches up with the Sea-Doo GTX which has an almost identical engine. Many of these parts are identical.

Pretty sure this works.

 

[JoeScarab]

Thanks again, I’m going to pull it out tomorrow and test it.

 

[ChrisM]

0462493 OIL PRESSURE SWITC - Johnson/Evinrude, OMC | Crowley Marine
Edit: that switch appears to be NLA...

OIL PRESSURE SWITC 0462493 462493 Evinrude Johnson Spares & Parts
This UK site appears to have one...

Your pressure switch is an open or closed only, so once the oil pressure reaches a certain amount, (looks like above 32 psi from the diagnostic page) the switch should stay closed.
Your resistance measure will only show you if the switch is open when the engine is off, or closed when there is enough pressure with the engine running. You can also perform the same test using the "continuity" setting on your multimeter meter, which gives you an audible signal.
If the switch tests good, you will need to remove it and install a pressure gauge on the switch port and understand that the actual oil pressure is within proper range at cold, and hot operation.

 

[JoeScarab]

Thanks everyone, it was the sensor. I’ve replaced it and ran the boat a few times and no alarms/codes.

I also replaced the voltage regulator and I see the voltage going up to around 13.1 at 5500 rpm, however I read in the shop manual it says I should see 14.1v at 5500 rpm. I ran the boat in the driveway with water so it only ran for a minute but just wondering if anyone has any experience with this. Thanks again!

 

[ChrisM]

Yes, 14.1 - 14.2

 

[JoeScarab]

Hi Everyone, I could still use some help. I finally had a chance to run the boat on the water and I got a P0523 “possible sensor stuck” but this is the new sensor. I also throttled-up and the engine ran fine and did not go into fail safe mode. I tried resetting via CANDOO and the fault just returns.

Also, the system still isn’t charging. I replaced the regulator (and stator) I’m only getting voltages between 12 and 13 volts, nothing near the 14.1+.

I’m beginning to wonder if there’s an issue with the ECM. Does anyone have any experience with replacing or troubleshooting it?

Thanks!

 

[ChrisM]

You probably need to back up a bit and check the magneto and stator AC output (pigtail off #38), I don't have numbers right now, if you search, the DC output should be the same for all 1503 engines.

 

[ChrisM]

My book, (from 2008) says "Magneto generator output" 360W @ 6000 RPM.

 

[Gatorbait2018]

Hi Everyone, I could still use some help. I finally had a chance to run the boat on the water and I got a P0523 “possible sensor stuck” but this is the new sensor. I also throttled-up and the engine ran fine and did not go into fail safe mode. I tried resetting via CANDOO and the fault just returns.

Also, the system still isn’t charging. I replaced the regulator (and stator) I’m only getting voltages between 12 and 13 volts, nothing near the 14.1+.

I’m beginning to wonder if there’s an issue with the ECM. Does anyone have any experience with replacing or troubleshooting it?

Thanks!

Hey Joe, my name is Elliot I have a Vortex in Daytona Beach. I believe the same engine as yours. How was the process of replacing the stator? Both my engines are at 511 hours, and the the voltage doesn't go above 13.1 when running. Last time I took it out, it lasted for about 6 hours. On the way back to the ramp the music died, and within 30 minutes of that happening, the boat completely shut down and would not restart. This is not the first time this has happened either. I think I need to change the stator but from what can see in the manual it looks like a challenge. I've already changed to new and larger batteries. Changed the rectifier because that melted at the connector. The picture seen below is running on two new batteries.