Trying to replace trailer wheel bearings

[Santa_sleigh]

Does anyone know how to identify the appropriate parts to rebuild/replace the wheel bearings on my trailer? I am planning a long trip and would like the peace of mind of knowing my wheels are in top shape.

Are these universal parts? Or do I need shorelander specific parts?

 

[dgfreeze]

Very universal, for the most part. I see in you don’t have a Yamaha, do you know for sure what pound axle(s) it is? Most are 3,500#….

 

[Santa_sleigh]

Very universal, for the most part. I see in you don’t have a Yamaha, do you know for sure what pound axle(s) it is? Most are 3,500#….

Oops I have to update my profile data. I have a 2015 212X (just got it last week). Still not sure abou tthe axle rating is though.

 

[biffdotorg]

Oops I have to update my profile data. I have a 2015 212X (just got it last week). Still not sure abou tthe axle rating is though.

Most trailers have a tag on the tongue listing specifics. Axle rating and tire specs. If not, the mfg and model of the trailer is there and you can look it up.

 

[usmcgoose]

For a lot of the trailers, they are universal. Rather than swapping just the bearings, I changed out the entire hub assembly. The cost wasn't too much more for the hub at Northern Tool over the bearings and seating ring (~$50 for the entire hub). Overall, complete replacement takes little to no time.

 

[dgfreeze]

Ok, it’s almost guaranteed to be 3,500#, which is the #84 spindle. Just search around for a bearing kit for a 3,500# axle, and it should be all you need. I’d also recommend a bearing packer. It’s the best way to get grease into the bearing. I’d kinda recommend getting a decent name brand kit, and not a random kit with no brand name. Bearings pretty much all come from China, it’s more about the quality control. I sell the kits for $18, and it has both bearings, both races, the seal, and a cotter pin. You should be able to find them local for about the same, or order them online from somewhere. You might also have a sleeve that the seal rides on, just be careful not to damage it. One last thing, be sure to use marine grease, after assembly, pump grease into the bearing buddy until you see the spring loaded mechanism start to compress.

 

[AlpharettaRK]

I am certain Shorelandr has no proprietary bearings. Bearing ID numbers are surprisingly universal. Look for Number stamped on inner race and google it. You will probably find a bunch of manufacturers make the the bearing. Me, I would choose a brand like Timken or SKF and order from Amazon. Yes they are all made in China but a brand gives you a little quality assurance.
For example google “LM11949” from the bearing in this pic and you’ll get a bunch of options. This was the bearing on a previous trailer I owned
Cheers
Randy

 

[YoDaddy292]

Also, it’s a good idea to carry a spare “loaded “ hub. We travel a lot in the summer and it is great piece of mind. Make sure you carry the tools to swap it too. Nothing worse than blowing up a vacation because you are on the side of the road killing a day or more (plus a possible tow bill) getting it all fixed.

 

[Cambo]

For the bearings the info above seems to be accurate my parts guy described as big bearing and little bearing compared to one odd ball trailer using two big bearings. Shorelander is an odd ball with the bearing seal and wear sleeve they use a larger inner diameter seal and larger wear sleeve that work in conjunction. This combo has worked well my 2018 trailer for the 242xe the grease had no water and looked to be in great shape after the 6th season of only adding grease with long road trips and salt water use. I would have left them alone but the rotors were rusted badly with large pits. My parts guy sent me the wrong seal and wear sleeve when I had everything apart I checked the wear sleeve on the spindle it gets glued in place by shorelander with loctite 262 it didn't move or pull free by hand. Then I slid the seal on just to see how it fit before knocking it into the hub it was tight and when I rotated it the wear sleeve broke free and came off. At the time It didn't concerm me just thought it was normal. After putting it back together I found this post that a member had listed the correct info.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/replacing-bearings-wear-ring-and-axle-temps-for-2014-shorelander.23357/#post-659520

Below is a picture of the correct seal and wear ring. When fitting the more common seal that has an inside diameter of about 1.64 onto the shorelander wear ring # 4410-089, you can wedge it on but it was so tight when trying to rotate it it was very hard and I used so much force that the ring sliced into my finger. While it fits forcefully the question is what will happen to the seal? Will the seal hold the wearing and spin it on the hub until it heats up and melts the seal or will the wear sleeve grind down the hub allowing water to seep in.

Just to show how different those dimensions are if you use the shorelander seal on a generic wear sleeve it will not hold grease under the pressure from a bearing buddy. The rubber of the seal doesn't even touch the wear ring .