Water In Oil with pictures, looking for opinions

[Yellowbird911]

I researched but found nothing like this. Am getting some water in the oil, not a lot as the volume does not increase at least that I can tell. Have drained and filled oil 3 times and then took boat out for a about 4 hours of running, which included taking the kids tubing so several engine start stops. Oil is milky again so clearly there is a problem. Pulled spark plugs and did a compression test. All cylinders are between 110-120 and spark plugs all look exactly the same. Unfortunately I didn't have my bore scope with me so I couldn't look into cylinders. When I first spun the motor over cylinder no.2, second one forward of the oil tank I did see a few drops of water blow out but again the spark plug for that cylinder looks exactly like the other three. So next I pulled the exhaust manifold as from research I expected to find a corrosion bridge from the water galley to the exhaust port which I did not. The gasket is clearly suspect but not completely blown out. Pictured is the exhaust port and manifold port of the no. 2 cylinder. You can clearly see that the port above the exhaust valves is cleaner where as the other cylinders have an even coat of carbon. The exhaust manifold it also cleaner indicating water or more likely steam is traveling down the port. My question is how much of a water leak at the exhaust port could cause water to back up in to the cylinder. When motor shuts down is there enough water trapped in the head that it can run back in to the cylinder from a leaking gasket. Will replace gasket and clean out the motor oil again to see if it fixes it but I am doubtful. Seems more likely there is a crack in the head but the compression test is ok and this engine, port side, makes 300 hundred more than the starboard and run perfectly. Any advice is welcome.

 

[Scottintexas]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/hi-looking-at-a-2008-232-limited.14714/#post-254281

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2005-ar230-saga-continues-now-i-have-water-in-the-oil.10555/

I don't have any suggestions other than maybe these two posts,

 

[Yellowbird911]

Thanks. I've read both of those. Kind of curious if anyone has ever seen water in oil with just a leaky gasket or if it take having a large leak like a blown out manifold. Have already sourced a head if need which is probably the real cause but still hopeful. Head looks pretty easy to do in the boat.

 

[WREKS]

My milky oil thread dealt with corrosion in the cylinder head. Are you the original owner of the boat? Has it ever overheated? I wondered about your exhaust manifold gasket. It looked like it may have been loose. But exhaust side blows away from engine, not into it.

 

[Yellowbird911]

Not original owner and plenty of corrosion inside the water ports. Don't know about being overheated but not with me. Exhaust does blow away from engine but most all 4 stroke engines pull some air back into the cylinder during the intake stroke due to valve overlap. Exhaust gasket looks suspect and will get replaced as soon as it comes in. The plug in No 2 looks no different then the other 3 three. Would think if water was coming in through a cracked head the plug would be super clean. The compression test at least rules out a cylinder to water head gasket failure but could still be a water to oil gasket failure. Will bore scope the cylinders when I reinstall the exhaust manifold. If the gasket doesn't fix it I'll just pull the motor and dive into it, seems easier. Thanks for the replies.

 

[14SX190]

Check block anode.
Mine was in two pieces and had head gasket blow due to blockage.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/milky-oil-1-8-na-part-3-engine-disassembly.27718/#post-459507

 

[Yellowbird911]

Will check. As I look at more engine pictures I can see there is a fair amount of corrosion in mine.

 

[WREKS]

The manifold under your gasket picture does not seem to match up with the parts diagrams. Is that original equipment? Yours looks like one part. There are actually two parts, 9.Exhaust Pipe Assy 1.

 

[Yellowbird911]

Very different from mine. Looks like the manifold from the Jet Ski version of the MR1.

 

[Sean R]

Is this issue from old age or old age and not flushing after salt water?

 

[Yellowbird911]

Don't know yet. Once I find the problem I will report back. I've only had it freshwater but previous owner clearly had it in salt.

 

[FX195]

Have you removed cylinder head? You can send to a machine shop for inspection and pressure test.

 

[Jgorm]

Mr1? That happened to mine. 110 is super low compression. I would do a full oil drain and retest compression and do leak down. Pulling the heads in the boat sucks. Like doing a puzzle at the bottom of a trash can. I have a big thread on my mr1 tear down.

 

[WREKS]

@Yellowbird911 I agree with @Jgorm If there is any way you can remove engine from boat, do it. Whatever you do, do not turn head upside down. You will lose lifters and spacers. The spacers are all different sizes. Definitely get a service manual, and read what is involved in removing the head. That is the perfect time to check valve clearances.

 

[14SX190]

@Yellowbird911 I agree with @Jgorm If there is any way you can remove engine from boat, do it. Whatever you do, do not turn head upside down. You will lose lifters and spacers. The spacers are all different sizes. Definitely get a service manual, and read what is involved in removing the head. That is the perfect time to check valve clearances.

Definitely the way to go.
Your engine is different but I'm sure there is service manual for MR1 somewhere on here.

I took head off in boat but ended up taking bottom end. It was easier to take out alone that way. Label the shims underneath the 4 bolts holding engine to mount. You'll wish you did as it makes seeing every detail that needs attention easier.

Once you get head off and as [HASH=3846]#WREKS[/HASH] said there are round aluminium pucks with spacer underneath that will fall out if turned upside down.
Procedure should be the same as TDC#1 and look for the arrow on cam caps. The cam will have a mark(like drilled hole) lined up with arrow.
Scribe a make on cam and/or take picture for re assembly where things line up. There is an order to undo the 32 bolts

Your doing the right thing.
If you need parts call Hedi at ParkPak ext#101.

 

[Yellowbird911]

Thanks for the advice. Will definitely pull engine if head needs to be removed. 110-120 seems low but all the cylinders are about the same which is more important I would think, also I ran over and picked this tester up from Harbor Freight so may not be the most accurate. Will probably end up being something more than the exhaust gasket but boat is floating at a buddies dock so will need to go back together for the 4 mile drive back to the ramp. On a side note I almost got out of fixing it because the scupper valve failed just sitting there and about sunk the boat, luckily my buddy noticed the bilge pump running and looked into it. Water did not get above the very bottom of the motors so no worry about water in oil from that. Was able to move his boat and put mine on the lift. What a stupid ass design. New METAL scupper valve will be here today.

 

[WREKS]

The service manual states to replace them, but I had no issues reusing the laminated stainless steel exhaust and head gaskets. The first time I replaced them. After that, I decided to try to reuse them. A member on this site suggested spray painting them. It seemed reasonable. It has worked. For added assurance I added Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Liquid Sealant. That may have been overkill. Whatever you do, make sure that the exhaust is properly torqued.

 

[Yellowbird911]

Got to the boat last night and of course USPS has lost my exhaust gasket. So as a temporary repair/ test I used a very thin layer of high temp rtv just around the actual exhaust ports. Also replace the scupper valve which is a fun job. Suctioned out the oil 4 times and the oil is still milky looking. Of course I am only pulling out around 2-2.5 quarts using the vacuum method but surprising the oil is not more clear after than many changes. Takes very little oil to make oil milky. Ran motor for around 10 seconds between oil changes and motor was out of water. As a test I put maybe 4 ounces of the used oil in a jug with a quart of new oil and shook it, viola milky oil about the same color. Will be using the boat this weekend and will monitor closely oil level. If oil level does not increase I will probably be putting 4-6 hours on the motor so if the oil level increases or does not take on a more oil color I will be pulling the motor on monday.

 

[Babin Farms]

Should probably run it more than 10 seconds between oil changes. All of the components & passages are covered in the milky oil and need to be warmed up to loosen off of everything.

 

[WREKS]

Before you pull engine, it may be good time to check coupler clearance. Once the engine is out of the boat, before removing cylinder head, do a leakdown test. That should help you determine and/or confirm your suspicions about the source of the milky oil.