Winterization of SX 192 (2014) -Engine Water Evacuation

[Tingo]

Hi All - New owner but handy mechanically. Live in a very cold climate so concern over winterization...especially water evacuation from the engine. Boat is stored on slings in a covered boathouse (over water and unheated) on an angle (rear is lower...does not matter for water in the engine?). Main concern is getting water out of the engine. I flushed the engine with fresh water and revved the engine to clear the exhaust as per the manual. Hooked up antifreeze to flush hose connector, started engine and added anti freeze until it ran out the intake grate. It never got to the point where anti freeze came out the cooling water pilot holes. Revved engine to clear exhaust.
Everything I have read talks about how easy it is to winterize and flush out water - can it really be that easy? I am concerned as to whether what I have done has in fact evacuated all the water in the engine.
Would appreciate some advice from more seasoned / mechanically inclined jet boaters.

Just as an FYI - I was surprised at how small the flush hose connector opening for adding anti-freeze/flushing actually is.
Thank you very much!

 

[d_coyne1984]

Blowing the water out the back is really the only major thing you need to do. I do a few times though bumping of the throttle with about 20-30 min in between each time running the engine. I personally like to change the oil in the fall before putting it away so it doesn't sit with dirty oil in it all winter. I change the oil, then run it for a few min to get clean oil circulated through the engine, then run antifreeze through, then fog. Fogging is known to foul the plugs so I replace those in the spring after I have burnt off the fogging oil. Most don't run antifreeze though, but I do for piece of mind since it gets pretty damned cold in MN. Some guys don't fog and I have never heard of it causing problems and many choose to change their oil in the spring. That stuff is more of a personal preference.

 

[Tingo]

Blowing the water out the back is really the only major thing you need to do. I do a few times though bumping of the throttle with about 20-30 min in between each time running the engine. I personally like to change the oil in the fall before putting it away so it doesn't sit with dirty oil in it all winter. I change the oil, then run it for a few min to get clean oil circulated through the engine, then run antifreeze through, then fog. Fogging is known to foul the plugs so I replace those in the spring after I have burnt off the fogging oil. Most don't run antifreeze though, but I do for piece of mind since it gets pretty damned cold in MN. Some guys don't fog and I have never heard of it causing problems and many choose to change their oil in the spring. That stuff is more of a personal preference.

Thank you for the reply - I live in Ontario so I know the "cold weather pain" that you feel in MN. The idea of bumping the throttle a few times with time in between is a good one .Thanks.

 

[Eloring]

I'm new at this and need help

I heard that you need to complete the following:

-Fill Gas Tank
-Add Stabilizer.
-Run Engine for 5 minutes to mix it all up
-Hook up water to boat and spray Fog into intake slowly until engine stalls and unplug hose.
-spray fog directly into each cylinder
-Run engine without water hookup to blow all water out.

-HOWEVER with the supercharged AR120 there is an additional step.
-I have no idea what that is.
It gets well below freezing where I live.

 

[d_coyne1984]

I do the fogging step differently. I think you'll burn off the fogging oil while you pump the water out so I pump the water out first. I start the motor and fog while the engine runs dry a couple times for about 10 sec each time while leaving 10-15 min between each to keep the engine cool. I also have the wife dump a gallon of marine antifreeze into hose connection port while I am doing that. Most will argue the antifreeze step is not necessary and I'm inclined to agree, but for a couple of bucks I say what the hell, especially for as cold as it gets in MN. Then fog each piston and bump the motor a bit with the starter (take the lanyard off the kill switch).

For adding the stabilizer, it would be best to add it before you trailer it for the last time so the sloshing around does a good job of mixing it in. Just running the engine I wouldn't think would do a great job of that.

I don't believe there are any steps that you have missed. I like to put a good wax on it in the fall and change the oil so that everything is ready to go for the spring, but that is a personal preference.

 

[Eloring]

I really appreciate your help here!

 

[d_coyne1984]

No problem. I got a reply on my email today to Gold Eagle (the company that makes Sta-bil). I asked them if they recommend the usual Stabil Storage or the 360 marine for winter boat storage. I used the Stabil Storage my first two years and switched to the 360 Marine the last two and have never had any problems with either, but it was reassuring to know what the manufacturer recommends.

 

[Eloring]

No problem. I got a reply on my email today to Gold Eagle (the company that makes Sta-bil). I asked them if they recommend the usual Stabil Storage or the 360 marine for winter boat storage. I used the Stabil Storage my first two years and switched to the 360 Marine the last two and have never had any problems with either, but it was reassuring to know what the manufacturer recommends.

Which one did they recommend?

 

[d_coyne1984]

Ha! Oops. I forgot that part. They recommended the 360 Marine.

 

[Dave Kruse]

I got this from another forum about the superchargers in the 192..

 

[Buoy23]

I got this from another forum about the superchargers in the 192..

Yes, I read that Tech Exchange also while I was looking for info on fogging the 1.8L supercharger engines. Very confusing on what should actually be done!?!?!?

 

[Buoy23]

The confusing part is the part about disconnecting the pressure sensor. and the fault code it throws - (code 29) and using the current YDIS to the unit. What the hell is a YDIS and does this have to be done for the boat to run again come spring????? Someone please help clear this up for me. Thanks. If not i'm ust fogging the cylinders and calling it a day.

 

[Bonsy17]

Hey guys I have a few things to note here as I recently winterized my 2017 ar195.

First have any of you actually followed the flush water hose that you are running antifreeze into? I did and it runs to a tee down by the jet pump. So when you are "flushing" your engine with antifreeze it actually is never going into the engine it drains directly through the red flush hose to a tee in the main water cooling line down by the jet pump and straight out the jet pump. Don't worry I did a similar procedure as you mentioned above thinking I was really getting the water out until I looked into it a little further. So what do you do now?

I blew compressed air from the cooling water pissers on the side of the boat to blow any water out of the engine and intercooler. I am not sure if that is sufficient enough but I am hoping so. I bet a cup or more of water came out the pump when I did this.

Second I did not do anything special when I fogged the engine. I removed the air box and filter and sprayed fogging oil directly into the supercharger. The engine did not have any issue with it. Is this the correct way? That I'm not sure of but I'm not sure what else I would do.

 

[Buoy23]

Hey guys I have a few things to note here as I recently winterized my 2017 ar195.

First have any of you actually followed the flush water hose that you are running antifreeze into? I did and it runs to a tee down by the jet pump. So when you are "flushing" your engine with antifreeze it actually is never going into the engine it drains directly through the red flush hose to a tee in the main water cooling line down by the jet pump and straight out the jet pump. Don't worry I did a similar procedure as you mentioned above thinking I was really getting the water out until I looked into it a little further. So what do you do now?

I blew compressed air from the cooling water pissers on the side of the boat to blow any water out of the engine and intercooler. I am not sure if that is sufficient enough but I am hoping so. I bet a cup or more of water came out the pump when I did this.

Second I did not do anything special when I fogged the engine. I removed the air box and filter and sprayed fogging oil directly into the supercharger. The engine did not have any issue with it. Is this the correct way? That I'm not sure of but I'm not sure what else I would do.

Good information on the flushing part of your post Bonsy17. Can anyone chime in on the Fogging portion of his post? Can you spray directly into the supercharger to fog the inner motor? Thanks,

 

[kyle]

I want to know also. I'm winterizing soon and kind of confused on the process since it's supercharged.

 

[Midnight2V]

Hi everyone, just wanted to share something that occurred to me regarding engine fogging.

Engine fogging is all well and good for metal engine components that move or are exposed to oxidation...but are there any parts that engine fogging is not particularly good for?

2 things specifically come to mind that are almost certainly detrimentally affected by fogging...or more specifically the oil fouling that is inherent to fogging.

The first thing is the air flow sensor. Oil fouling can severely affect the accuracy of a mass air flow sensor and charge air temperature sensor. Keeping these components clean is pretty important.

The second thing is specifically for supercharged boats - the intercooler. Spraying an oil mist onto the air side of an air to water intercooler...well let's just say I think there are MUCH better ways to preserve an intercooler. In fact, I really can't really think of a more harmful act to the performance of an air-to-water heat exchanger than to foul the air side with an adhesive oil.

I'll say this, fogging is a very good thing for certain parts of a high performance marine engine that sits very still for long periods of time. However, the method published by Yamaha for winterization leaves A LOT to be desired. Yamaha's published method is setup for simplicity and time but not much more than that.

There are much better methods than the published instructions that have been discussed.

 

[4wheeldeal]

If you have a ribbon installed still fogging is useless in my opinion. I will be spraying down each plug hole and turning it over once or twice and repeating, that is all. Just to coat the rings and cylinders. Everything else has oil on it already.

I'm worried about freezing and removing all the water out of the cooling system though. Like mentioned about the flush is connected to the plump, there is also water in the exhaust as well. On my seadoo I use to pour antifreeze down the tube going to the head. Then tossed some into the water box as well. Besides pumping it into the flush has anyone tried that?

Also is there an actual perceedure from Yamaha someone can post so we can reference it?

 

[pete4180]

I want to add to this discussion, what about fogging the engine on the CARB boat with catalytic converter, not supercharged? Do I spray it thorough the intake manifold or directly to the cylinders? Or don't fog it at all since unburned oil can damage the catalytic converter over time?? Can't find anything online about Yamaha. Some manufactures say don't do it through the intake just directly to the cylinders, other say add 2 stroke oil to the fuel and some say don't do it at all. Confusing stuff.

 

[4wheeldeal]

If I'm remembering this correct the Scarab boats with seadoo engines say not to even fog the motor if it's under 6 months storage. Something to consider. If you live in a cold dry winter area like I do in Canada I wouldn't be worried. I never fog my old Honda that's parked for the winter.

Just spray some down the cylinders flush out any coolant and you should be fine.