"Emergency Parallel" switch and "Second Battery Charging" indicator

[sysinu]

I know this has been asked previously, but I'm asking it in a different way.

The emergency parallel switch is there to allow current from both batteries to which ever switch is on (in the case of starting the boat or supplying more potential energy to the house switch). This I get.

There is a "second battery charging" indicator that I have as well. I assume the house battery is the "second battery", is that a safe assumption?

When you put the batteries in "emergency parallel" is it sufficient to assume that is a bidirectional switch (and that it's just completing the circuit making them parallel? Or does it have some directional current diode in place?


I ask this because I have a solar panel that I wired to my house battery from the controller unit. I want to top off both batteries between outings (I don't have big stereo amps or any of that such stuff that drains a lot of power). I don't want to wire the batteries in parallel each time, so I have been using the emergency parallel switch, assuming that would allow the house battery to charge my starting battery. Recently I have had some low voltage warnings from the tac's suggesting my starting battery is low.

If the emergency parallel is not directional current, then I know I have a bad battery and will replace it . If it's directional, then I am hoping to know that . I assume it would be directional since there is a "second battery charging" device in the mix, but that would be a pretty expensive "emergency parallel" switch in that case to have it provide directional current.

If it is directional, then I guess I have to manually parallel the batteries each time I get done (which isn't a big deal, but I would rather flip a switch that exists than put in a new switch and line).

TIA!

 

[sysinu]

Also... the '14 242 LS's... is the default battery a Group 24 or a Group 27? The boat is in the slip, and I'll go have a look later, but I have 2 group 27's that I charged up to swap out with my current batteries and I have a lingering suspicion that I will need to do some battery box modifications here pretty soon.

 

[seadude]

Wired correctly, the combining switch simply parallels the batteries and as does the DVSR when the LED is lit (after charging the Start battery first).
In the e-series the solar panels are wired directly to the Start battery (on the switch), which charges the Start first and then both via the DVSR.
You should get that Start battery tested and make sure all the connections are clean and tight!

 

[sysinu]

Thank you so much for the information! I re-rigged it all now that I have this data!

Question about your solar panel. Does the second battery charging thing kick on only when the starting battery is higher volts than the house battery?

Note... it is default as a group 24 battery. Had to install new battery boxes since I put in group 27s.

 

[Jgorm]

It you have more than a 5w panel you should get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NNMEU...t=&hvlocphy=9031350&hvtargid=pla-318232540946
They charge 2 banks

 

[sysinu]

It you have more than a 5w panel you should get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NNMEU...t=&hvlocphy=9031350&hvtargid=pla-318232540946
They charge 2 banks

Thank you for this. I have a 100W Renogy 12V panel with a controller. I can't really tell if this replaces the controller or if you just take the controller output and then connect that as the input to this unit that connects to the battery. I asked in the Amazon QA, but maybe you know the answer.

 

[sysinu]

In looking at this further, it looks like a replacement controller. Is there a big difference between this controller and other dual-battery controllers?

 

[Jgorm]

Not really. It's MMP, it something like that where it takes the higher voltage and decreases it to provide more amps. You could use a diode setup if you have a charge controller.

 

[sysinu]

Now I am very confused. It looks like you take a 12V panel and then hang two 12V batteries off the back. If that isn't the case I guess I will send it back to Amazon .

 

[Jgorm]

Sort of. Most panels are higher voltage. See here. https://www.solar-electric.com/lear...d-charging/mppt-solar-charge-controllers.html

I have 300w hooked into my RV house bank, and the truck bank with that controller. I think I set it to send 20%to the truck bank with the rest to the house bank. This keeps them isolated, but charged.

 

[Jgorm]

This better describes the charger. https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/

 

[sysinu]

So if my panel is 12vdc then I am good to go.

 

[Jgorm]

Yeah, but your panel is probably closer to 15+.

 

[sysinu]

Yeah, but your panel is probably closer to 15+.

Hrm. So I still need to use my renogy controller in front of this controller? Or do I go straight from the panel to this controller? On the q&a they said I use this instead of my renogy controller.

 

[sysinu]

Looks like from the Q and A the charge controller is also needed.

 

[Jgorm]

Hrm. So I still need to use my renogy controller in front of this controller? Or do I go straight from the panel to this controller? On the q&a they said I use this instead of my renogy controller.

You won't need the old controller. Panels to the controller, then to both batteries.

 

[sysinu]

You won't need the old controller. Panels to the controller, then to both batteries.

Awesome, thanks!