‘06 SX210 - starboard motor cutting out when put into reverse

[djkahn86]

So today I drove out about 15 minutes and docked. When I went to drive back I wanted to test how the lateral thrusters were going to work and when I put it into reverse the starboard engine shut off. I was probably going just above idle when I put it into reverse so I wasn’t going forward very much. The starboard engine would then not crank over and I waited and tried several times over a 30 to 40 minute period. At that point I had to call the tow boat and got towed back to the marina which took another 45 minutes. I tried again to start the starboard engine and it won’t crank over. Anybody have any suggestions or solutions for me to look into tomorrow. I am going to have the boat put on a work rack and then try and dry start it to see if it fires up. Super frustrating and kinda scary. Second time out on the boat and was hoping to have a successful outing with the wife and kids.

 

[Seadeals]

I am sorry for your trouble and know that must be frustrating. It’s a bit of a weird situation. With a boat you are new to, it can be easy to feel some regret; but the sx210 and the 1052cc engine are very reliable overall. You may just have a few bugs to work out. In general, you are only using reverse at slow speed; but nothing mechanically precludes you from doing so at WOT either other than a sticker (search sub move). Were you in shallow water? The engines don’t really stop uncommanded unless you get something stuck in the impeller (suck a rope).

Did you run on only one engine at anything faster than no wake speed?
Did you check to make sure the cleanout hatch was closed tight and the kill switches under the hatch were closing?
Did you make sure both levers were in neutral (straight up) when you tried to start it?
Also, you can run slowly on one engine with no issues (save the tow) or you can clamp the inlet line on the dead engine and go faster on one.
Here to help. It will be a great boat for the family.

 

[djkahn86]

I am sorry for your trouble and know that must be frustrating. It’s a bit of a weird situation. With a boat you are new to, it can be easy to feel some regret; but the sx210 and the 1052cc engine are very reliable overall. You may just have a few bugs to work out. In general, you are only using reverse at slow speed; but nothing mechanically precludes you from doing so at WOT either other than a sticker (search sub move). Were you in shallow water? The engines don’t really stop uncommanded unless you get something stuck in the impeller (suck a rope).

Did you run on only one engine at anything faster than no-wake speed? - I kept it at No wake out of fear of damage to the other engine

Did you check to make sure the cleanout hatch was closed tight and the kill switches under the hatch were closing? - Funny you ask. The week before, our 1st outing, I had mistakingly not locked the starboard plug and it pushed up when I went to plane. This lifted the door slightly and killed the engine. I fixed this and put in EZ lock plug before we took it out this Sat. I check it as well and depressed the button to make sure it was ok. Nothing moved and the door was tight and shut. Thus eliminating this variable.

Did you make sure both levers were in neutral (straight up) when you tried to start it? Both levelers were in neutral

• I figured I should:
  • swap out the plugs in the starboard engine
  • Flush out the starboard engine while on the work rack with the flush-out kit.
    • am I able to run the engine and maybe try putting it in reverse to see if it dies while I am running off the hose??
  • Change my batteries.
    • one is dead as I was never told about shutting the switch to OFF. It's Off now and I understand the concept of a
      • starting battery
      • deep cycle battery for running radio when at the beach, etc...
• Also, my throttle is very hard to move and I want to have that looked at. It was /is very difficult to move and especially into reverse. I feel that was also part of the problem that I really pushed into gear, maybe too much due to the resistance.

I am grasping at straws. The local marina mechanic is kinda weak and I plan to take it to a YAMAHA dealer once the season ends in mid OCT in Maryland. Let them take a crack at it. My wife and kids enjoyed going out and restoring the boat. I don't want to scare them taking them out a few more times and having mechanical issues which could sour them on the whole thing. That's worse than having a bad boat.


Any Help is appreciated

 

[Doncore3000]

Is the starter turning the motor and it's just not firing up, or is it not responding at all when you're turning the key?

 

[Seadeals]

The engines get picky with old plugs, so if you don’t know when they were last done a fresh set of four in the starboard is a good idea. It will also “reset” your coil connections. NGK CR9EB is the stock plug.

You can start and idle the engine without being on the hose if you only run it briefly before it can overheat. I am not a fan of heat-cycling it rapidly so I personally limit run time to 20 seconds but that gives you plenty of time to see if it starts and shift into reverse.

Batteries need to be good to avoid issues. Stock was only a single battery, so if you have two you need to determine how the second was wired/installed. I personally do not run a “start” and “house” setup but keep each batt isolated running off one and keeping the other as full insurance. The resistance of the cable and reverse bucket movement would not affect the engine until you move past the reverse detent all the way back. That would rev the engine, not kill it. I am trying to think of anything else circuit-wise that could do that; but it really is independent. Start switch, kill switch and clean-out hatch switches are the factors in an electrical kill of the motor short of a short/fuse blow.

Throttle and steering cables wear out and if they have not been replaced, you are likely overdue. Before biting that bullet, check the cable end at the reverse bucket. That is where water enters and rusts out the cable and housing. Some good penetrating lube sprayed while going from forward to reverse repeatedly may free it up. Same with the steering. Also a dab of thick grease where the steel rod enters the brass housing at the black plastic seal will help keep water out and prolong life.