10w-30 or 10w-40 for 04' AR230?

[ISLANDRACING]

What would be better here?

Castrol 06246 EDGE 10W-40 SPT

Castrol 06112 Power1 10W-40 Synthetic 4T Motorcycle Oil

The motorcycle oil probably would contain more of the anti-wear additives. the auto oil is SN which means the zinc/phosphorus levels are probably only 600-800 ppm

 

[ISLANDRACING]

Yamalube is great for break-in. Many Yamaha ski racers like Amsoil 10W-40 Synthetic Marine 4-stroke. I have switched to that, too. Seems great, once the engine is broken-in. Or buy from @ISLANDRACING if you want the very best!

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thanks Swat... Im an amsoil dealer, and they do make good stuff, even though i havent used their stuff for quite a while. they do have a HUGE array of products which i do like. what i dont like is not knowing what their basestocks are. and theyre tighter than a frogs azz when it comes to getting info from them. at their prices you know they're not "esters" If i were to chose one of their products for a boat, id probably go with this stuff over the marine:

The marine is "SM catalytic compatible" which means probably doesnt have the z/p levels of this oil. ...something to look into.

 

[Bruce]

@ISLANDRACING, how much is your recommended Amsoil? And will I lose RPMs switching from 10w30 to 10w40?

 

[swatski]

In the meantime, this is one of my all-time favorite "oil threads":
http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=244631&highlight=amsoil+yamaha
Actually dealing with Yamaha 1.8l engines and Amsoil with your typical cast of Greenhulk characters: "UnleashedBeast" going at it with "Raptor" dude and Rick something.
It is hilarious, and quasi-educational to boot.

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[swatski]

thanks Swat... Im an amsoil dealer, and they do make good stuff, even though i havent used their stuff for quite a while. they do have a HUGE array of products which i do like. what i dont like is not knowing what their basestocks are. and theyre tighter than a frogs azz when it comes to getting info from them. at their prices you know they're not "esters" If i were to chose one of their products for a boat, id probably go with this stuff over the marine:

The marine is "SM catalytic compatible" which means probably doesnt have the z/p levels of this oil. ...something to look into.

@ISLANDRACING I would totally switch to the Amsoil you are recommending and buy it from you, here is what I typically get -- FYI -- from my latest order of Amsoil (I would get 8 quarts and 2 filters per oil/filter change of course, but already had some inventory hence a partial order):


I change it every 30 hrs or so.


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[Vedner19]

My manual says 10w-30. I've always used Yamalube and was considering switching to a synthetic and was wondering 10w30 or 40 but if Yamalube is now 10w40 seems like a no brainer that I should run a 10w40 synthetic. Is anyone against the Mobil 1 10w40? They have 5 quarts at Walmart for $25.

 

[Speedling]

My manual says 10w-30. I've always used Yamalube and was considering switching to a synthetic and was wondering 10w30 or 40 but if Yamalube is now 10w40 seems like a no brainer that I should run a 10w40 synthetic. Is anyone against the Mobil 1 10w40? They have 5 quarts at Walmart for $25.

Careful with mobil 1 that you know what you are getting as well. Some are full synthetic. Some are not.

 

[Vedner19]

How about this one?

 

[Speedling]

How about this one?

Should be fine cuz it says full synthetic on it. Don't know what the high mileage adds to the mix.

 

[tdonoughue]

The only thing I would offer for full synthetics is this:

If an engine (any engine--car, boat, tractor) is started on full synthetic, then replacing with full synthetic or dino causes no issue. However, if you start on dino and go to full synthetic, then you will after a couple or three years have very slow oil leaks develop in your engine. Why? Dino absorbs better into the gaskets and makes them swell just a liiiiittle bit. When you switch to synthetic, the gaskets shrink just a liiiiiittle bit--just enough to develop a small annoying leak. Not enough to damage anything--just enough that you will notice an occasional drip off the bottom.

Therefore, if you have had dino in your engine previously (like Yamalube), I recommend sticking with dino or doing a blend.

 

[KXCam22]

I am running the 0W40 mobil 1. They are getting incredible results with it in the dirt bike racing world. It is the euro formula which is a bit better than the NA formulas, I am told. Runs nice in the yamaha. Won't truly know for another 1000 hours or so. Amsoil is very good oil. It is all I run in truck differentials due to its low temp performance. Cam.

 

[ISLANDRACING]

Thanks guys, Amsoil is funny when it comes to mail order the product because we have to pay shipping in, and then charge shipping out, on top of having to pay yearly to be a dealer for them. I usually do not stock Amsoil for this reason, but If I place a big enough order to offset some the shipping i can offer a 10% off list for "Jetboaters" members ( and also no tax when shipping out of state ) not much of a savings but its something. If there are certain Amsoil products that people definately want, I would start stocking those particular products so they are readily available.
We are placing a HUGE Klotz order in the near future for those willing to switch to the "dark side" ,,, The Klotz Estorlin 10/40 is excellent stuff.

 

[FloJet]

Count me in for the Full synthetic Amsoil then!

 

[Vedner19]

Ok I'm in Walmart now trying to pick up the Mobil 1 10w-40 but they're out. They do have the 0w-40 but it says European car formula...will this work?

 

[Speedling]

I wouldn't get it. Probably fine but i would wait or look elsewhere.

 

[Vedner19]

Yeah felt the same way. I put it back. I'll just order it online.

 

[tdonoughue]

Good choice (to put it back). That stuff is thinner and breaks down faster in the cold (like on engine startup or if it is really freezing). If you put in too high a number, then the oil is too thick and you lose gas mileage. Not good, but at least you don't break anything (until you get way out of spec). If you put in too low, then you are toying with the oil breaking down too quickly and not providing lubrication. That, my friend, is how you can break things.

 

[Gym]

The only thing I would offer for full synthetics is this:

If an engine (any engine--car, boat, tractor) is started on full synthetic, then replacing with full synthetic or dino causes no issue. However, if you start on dino and go to full synthetic, then you will after a couple or three years have very slow oil leaks develop in your engine. Why? Dino absorbs better into the gaskets and makes them swell just a liiiiittle bit. When you switch to synthetic, the gaskets shrink just a liiiiiittle bit--just enough to develop a small annoying leak. Not enough to damage anything--just enough that you will notice an occasional drip off the bottom.

Therefore, if you have had dino in your engine previously (like Yamalube), I recommend sticking with dino or doing a blend.

I left the 10w30 full synthetic for a 10w40 blend for this exact reason. I was getting annoying oil pan leaks on both engines. Over the last two seasons of a blended 10w40 the leaks have vanished. I agree the full synthetic does not properly wet the gaskets in the MR1 engines.

 

[ISLANDRACING]

The problem with "BLENDS" is that you never know what you're getting. You can be getting an oil that is 80% petroleum and 20% of a group 3 ( lowest synthetic catagory ) and still legally be called a "synthetic blend".
Probably one of the best "blends" we've come across is the MAXIMA SYN-BLEND which is a true 50/50 blend of 50% ESTER synthetic ( top synthetic catagory ) and 50% petroleum.

 

[Crlos16]

Well looks like I will be sticking to yamalube, because is what my boat has used since new.

My biggest concern was or still is Yamaha suggest for us to use 10W-40 on the MR1's HO, now the motor head in me tells me I should use a 0w-40 because these motors are high RPM motors. Last boat I owed had a mild performance 5.0 liter motor and my engine builder suggested to stick with 0w-40 motor oil due to the constant high RPM's and that motor would red line at 6,000 RPM's, and now Yamaha is suggesting to use 10W-40 on a 10,000 RPM motor!