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110HP block is interchangable with the 160HP block.....

Stuck with both halves of the cases together. I forgot to order a new oil pan gasket. :( Anyone want to pick one up from a deal and overnight it too me? LOL The closest one is about 3 hours away, and I don't have the time to get it!
 
Ouch!
 
WOW, that's terrible. Hopefully you'll have it back together again ASAP.
 
ITS ALIVE......AGAIN...... LOL I first started it last week Wednesday. I ran it for about ten minutes on the hose. Last night I brought it to the lake and left it on the trailer. I ran it for over 20 minutes. All seems to be good with the engine. The engine seems a touch quieter than last time. I don't know if that had anything to do with the bad valve or not.

I also replaced the intermediate bearings. That didn't help the noise that I am hearing. I am wondering if it is in fact one or both of the bearings on the back side of the impeller. I will probably pull of the pump tonight. With the pump off, and a quick run of the engine I will know if the noise is gone. I really thought it was the intermediate bearing!!!!

The plan is to bring it to the cottage on Friday night. I am hoping to get some good time on it this weekend and make sure the engine is sound. I plan to have the bearing "noise" remediated by Friday.

So, the sleeve was a great success. I don't remember if I got to that part yet or not. But these block are NOT nikasil coated. Despite what everyone on the internet thinks. Sleeves run about $80. The labor to put it in will probably be 2-3X that amount. But either way, the engines seem very repairable across the board.IMG-20140529-WA0001.jpg
 
Outstanding!
 
2 hours on the engine! All is going well! I just have to figure out why the No Wake Mode is not working on the new engine side. I ran into @JERRY TERRONES on the lake.
 
Ryan, glad to see it is working good for you! For everyone else looking at this post. Ryan must has missed his calling as a Yamaha mechanic, when I opened up his engine compartment and looked at what he accomplished it looked as perfect as mine does with 69 hours on it, no wires out of place nothing. Hats off to Ryan, there are very few of us that would tackle what he did. For everyone else, there is nothing wrong with being frugal and saving a few bucks and doing what you can yourself and not go to the `stealership` again very nice job Ryan!

p.m. me when your are going back up to the lake.
 
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That's awesome @Ryan Vogels glad that your back in action.
 
Hey I am new to this site as well but I wanted to sign up to chime in on this topic as I have also built the several of these franken motors at the shop that I work at in Fort Walton Beach Florida. JetWerks
What I dont understand about your particular build is what differences in bolt size for the oil cooler are you talking about because I had no similar problem. Are you speaking about the exhaust mount that needs to be drilled and tapped for the 160 exhaust to mount to the 11o case? I did however have the same issue with the cooling pipe I just left it as was and plump it accordingly. I also wanted to touch on the subject about compression ratio differences between the two motors as I am still in the process of figuring this out myself...the real complication comes when you realize that the 160 head gasket is a 3 ply and the 110 gasket is a 2 ply gasket. which makes the 160 gasket thicker but that motor still manages to have a higher compression ratio. so that much leave the combustion chamber volume as the differences and if thats true the heads are not the same. If none of this makes any sense my apologies as im in a bit of a hurry.
 
Also would like to note that I believe you made the right call on using the 160 rods as they are stronger to deal with the higher compression ratio and RPMs
How many hours you have on the motor now?
 
@Joe Current
The 160 rods are different than both the vx 110 and the fx 140. I can't note the strength portion. But there was a big difference in weight between the the 110 and 160. The 160 was much lighter, as were the pistons.

As for the oil cooler bolts, I must have misworded that. It was the mount for the exhaust. While I could have used the smaller bolts from the 110 i thought it safer to have the larger stronger bolts. The cooling pip was only a matter of heat up the block a bit and pulling it out. This kept both engines looking identical.

As for the head..... The valves are the same. The valve guides are the same. There are a ton of parts that are the same exact part number for the 110 and 160. I know the cams are very different. This makes me think the molds are the same. If you have a head from your existing 160 engine, this shouldn't be a worry. You can use that head. I wish I did have a good answer for compression ratio. Maybe they mill the head at the factory?
 
Ryan
I believe there has to be some kind of difference in the head (likely being that the 160 has been decked at the factory)
The heads have different letter designations stamped on them for different HPs
All the heads start with the letter designation of 60E10
But the 110 ends with Y-4
the 140 is Y-2
and the 160 is stamped Y-1
I plan on getting a volume measurement of each of the combustion chambers as soon as I find some time, as this just doesnt sit right with me not knowing where there getting the increased compression ratio.
Any ways how many hours you got on her now? Still running smooth?
 
@Joe Current

Thing runs great. I think it is about time I see all of the extra parts that I have (gear reduction, stator, damaged 160 block, etc.) It's a shame I didn't get it out that much this year. I took on to many other projects. Was flipping tow vehicles so I could have something a little nicer to tow it with.

Now that I know what to expect, I would do it again in a heart beat. I alone had the engine out of the boat in about 2-2.5 hours.
 
So I started my research on the differences. The bore and the stroke of the engine are exactly the same. This meant that the crank, pistons, and rods were all the same size. But, the compression ratio was lower. The 160HP engine runs an 11.9 compression ration. The Jetski engine is 11.4 if I remember correctly. This was a bit concerning because I couldn't figure out why there was a difference. The bottom end of the engine utilizes the same sized parts, had the same displacement, and had the same bore and stroke. To this day I do not know exactly why there is a difference. It may be in the head or head gasket.
I'm no engine mechanic, but as an engineer and just thinking about the physical mechanics, doesn't Bore and Stroke being the same mean that ONLY the crank and pistons are the same. Rods could be different but still have the same bore and stroke. Different rod lengths would change the compression ratio, but not the displacement. Right?
Ryan
I believe there has to be some kind of difference in the head (likely being that the 160 has been decked at the factory)
I plan on getting a volume measurement of each of the combustion chambers as soon as I find some time, as this just doesnt sit right with me not knowing where there getting the increased compression ratio.
Certainly, different volume combustion chambers would change the compression ratio. But if the heads are the same volume, then compression ratio can be changed with rod lenght. Right?

There is a lot to read here and I may have missed it. All I saw was mention that the rods in the different engines are only different in strength. But I didn't see mention of their length. It was implied in the first post that the rods are the same "size". But I would think thats not true. All other things being equal wouldn't the rods need to be longer in the higher compression engine?

Again, I am far from any sort of expert on engine design. I'm just trying to learn based on engineering classes (mechanical and electrical) way back in college.
 
I believe they were the same length. I should have both rods at home that I can inspect this further.
 
Yes to my knowledge rod length, gasket thickness, piston height, deck height, and combustion chamber volume should be our only variables. I do know we can check head gasket off the list as the 160 gasket is actually thicker than the 110 and will in turn decrease compression ratio.
 
FYI, to put sleeves into the block is fairly simple if you feel hillbilly enough to do it. I did this for my 2 smoke exciter:
First, Get the grill rockin. Clean it up. Stick the block in there. Get it nice and hot. No campfires, that's not controlled enough. You should have had the sleeves frozen in the deep freeze last night.
The block expands, the frozen sleeves slide right in. Use a GOOD flat device to make sure it stays flush as you put them in. Use oven mitts or welding gloves. You will have about 8 seconds to adjust it before it's locked into place.
Gluck.
 
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