2007 sx210 over heat problem

[Street glide]

Hey everybody was out on the boat Sunday. And after we ran for abt 45 mins or so at 7500 rpms the over heat alarm tripped . I had just checked the pissers prior to it going off and they were both working fine . So we stopped I checked the clean outs and put a mask on and looked up in the jet nozzle and didn't see anything. Waited a few mins and cranked it back up no light . Ran again and after abt 30 or 45 mins it did it again . I just put brand new thermostats and plugs in last week . Do y'all think maybe it's a bad sensor any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Babin Farms]

@WREKS might be able to help with this issue.

 

[WREKS]

@Street glide @Babin Farms I would run on the hose in No-Wake mode for about ten minutes to see if the engine(s) overheats. If it does, I would get a infrared thermometer (Harbor Freight) and, take temperature readings on the cylinder walls right below the exhaust manifolds. If the temperatures approach 200 degrees F. on any cylinder, there is an internal blockage in the cooling system. If the engine does not overheat, there may have been a temporary clog from sand/whatever from running in shallows that may have flushed out.

 

[Street glide]

Ok thanks I ordered a new temp sensor and engine adnodes just in case I will try that and see again thanks f0rmthe help

 

[WREKS]

@Street glide There is probably nothing wrong with the temp sensor. In fact, I do not think it is tied into the overheat alarms. Replacing it is a pain because it is behind and under Exhaust Manifold #2. Checking the engine cylinder temperatures as stated above is easy compared to replacing the switches. The Engine Thermoswitch and Exhaust Thermoswitch are the switches that trip the overheat alarms. I think the Engine Temperature Sensor is an analog device that just records the Engine Temperature for engine diagnostics. Having Yamaha Diagnostic System would be helpful for you.

 

[Street glide]

I bought the one that is on the exhaust pipe but going to do what u said first

 

[Scottintexas]

what did you old thermostat look like,?

without having it on the trailer the debris that can cause an overheat can be very small,

a tooth pick in the impeller
a piece of plastic bag caught on the intake grate causing a disruption of flow

just to many possibilities, pull the impellers, the fact that it is intermittent would lead me to guess debris or even a damaged impeller,

You've got to look at the physical stuff before you go buying parts, Do you have a YDS to monitor temps in real time ? Did you check with at thermo temp to compare the engines when in overheat ? spend your money on tools rather than guessing with parts,



.

 

[Street glide]

what did you old thermostat look like,?

without having it on the trailer the debris that can cause an overheat can be very small,

a tooth pick in the impeller
a piece of plastic bag caught on the intake grate causing a disruption of flow

just to many possibilities, pull the impellers, the fact that it is intermittent would lead me to guess debris or even a damaged impeller,

You've got to look at the physical stuff before you go buying parts, Do you have a YDS to monitor temps in real time ? Did you check with at thermo temp to compare the engines when in overheat ? spend your money on tools rather than guessing with parts,



.

The thermostat had some stuff on it put new ones in and then cleaned the housing and made sure the lines were clean I do have the yds . Didn't see anything in the intake grate or in the jet nozzle when I looked up in there getting a thermos gun this week only ordered those other parts because I was ordering something else would rather have it and not need than have to wait on it . Can always send back

 

[Street glide]

@Street glide @Babin Farms I would run on the hose in No-Wake mode for about ten minutes to see if the engine(s) overheats. If it does, I would get a infrared thermometer (Harbor Freight) and, take temperature readings on the cylinder walls right below the exhaust manifolds. If the temperatures approach 200 degrees F. on any cylinder, there is an internal blockage in the cooling system. If the engine does not overheat, there may have been a temporary clog from sand/whatever from running in shallows that may have flushed out.

Did what you said last weekend and it tripped the over heat Alarm I picked up a heat temp gun from harbor freight and check the cylinder and u were right they were like 195 . So I figured I must have a internal blockage like you said. So I pulled the exhaust manifold and like you said the cooling jackets were all clogged up . So I cleaned them out and the ones on the manifold. My new gaskets should be here n a day or two . Thanks for all the help

 

[WREKS]

@Street glide My overheating problem, diagnosed the same way, required removing the engine, then the cylinder head to get to the cylinder water jackets. That is where the cooling system was blocked. Hopefully, that is not your issue. However, once the blockage is removed, it can be prevented from reoccurring. Drying out the cooling system after flushing is the key. And that depends on many things, such as where you store your boat, the climate you live in, how often you use it, just to name a few. Any time water/water vapor remains or is introduced into the cooling system, other than when on the water, invites long term trouble.

 

[Scottintexas]

if the cooling manifold was blocked up I'd guess the exhaust pipe is also, it has the same small water passages and will causes intermittent overheats, we had a thread with a picture of the ports but I can't find it at the moment,

I might try to put it back together and see if that was enough to get you running, if so I would strongly consider crankygypsy's closed loop flush before you took the head off (unless your comfortable doing that)

https://jetboaters.net/threads/closed-loop-flush-of-mr-1-with-marine-descaler.8443/

.

 

[Street glide]

if the cooling manifold was blocked up I'd guess the exhaust pipe is also, it has the same small water passages and will causes intermittent overheats, we had a thread with a picture of the ports but I can't find it at the moment,

I might try to put it back together and see if that was enough to get you running, if so I would strongly consider crankygypsy's closed loop flush before you took the head off (unless your comfortable doing that)

https://jetboaters.net/threads/closed-loop-flush-of-mr-1-with-marine-descaler.8443/

Yea I saw his video and am going to do tht aswell




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[Street glide]

Sorry for the late post got the boat back together couple weeks ago but weather and work has keep me from taking it out. But we went out last Saturday and didn't have any issue ran for almost 45 mins at 7500 rpms and no alarms. Then ran for another hour at same rpms and still nothing so maybe with me cleaning it out and now probably flushing better than previous owner maybe I'm good to go

 

[David Martin]

Start with the basics: Fuel, spark, compression. Then onto fuses, relays, and safety switches.

Your port motor was in Neutral, right? Maybe double-check that there's not an issue with the N detent area?

@Street glide @Babin Farms I would run on the hose in No-Wake mode for about ten minutes to see if the engine(s) overheats. If it does, I would get a infrared thermometer (Harbor Freight) and, take temperature readings on the cylinder walls right below the exhaust manifolds. If the temperatures approach 200 degrees F. on any cylinder, there is an internal blockage in the cooling system. If the engine does not overheat, there may have been a temporary clog from sand/whatever from running in shallows that may have flushed out.

Hey guys WREKS brings up a vary good diagnosis's point.....I would like to add to it hopefully helping someone. I purchased a Service Manual (online) and printed it out. Like WREKS I took temp reading (10 location on each motor and exhaust) and wrote them down in the service manual on a picture of the motor. I recorded these temps as a base line reading and will repeat every year during maintenance to see heat trends. I also recorded temps on the exhaust water, (135) thermostat exit water(140)

Hope this helps