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Thanks for the ideas.
When I say “runs” it’s turning over with some combustion but not enough to idle. So I’d be surprised if it was the ignition switch, but I can give it a shot.
The lanyard and hatch switch I’m sure it’s not. It won’t even turn over with those open.
Only partially true about the switches. But anyway, best of luck with figuring it out. I’m sure it’s a simple fix, just hard to figure out what’s causing it.
Dang it!!! Sorry to hear that. Years ago, I had a stuck exhaust valve that required me to pull the engine and have some head work done. The big difference though was that mine was due to storage and lack of use causing a valve to stick. Hopefully if yours is valve related, nothings seriously damaged and you can get it looked at and fixed soon.
Ps, if you end up wanting to pull the motor, I do have a lot of pics and step by step instructions.
Dang it!!! Sorry to hear that. Years ago, I had a stuck exhaust valve that required me to pull the engine and have some head work done. The big difference though was that mine was due to storage and lack of use causing a valve to stick. Hopefully if yours is valve related, nothings seriously damaged and you can get it looked at and fixed soon.
Ps, if you end up wanting to pull the motor, I do have a lot of pics and step by step instructions.
Depending on how hands on you want to be, or are able to do yourself. Pulling the engine yourself and tearing it down to asses the damage would give you an idea of what your up against and wouldn’t cost much if you have access to a few specific tools, time and the space to work on it. I’d do everything possible (within financial reason) to save the original engine over an SBT replacement.
Best of luck with the repair, I hope it all works out for you.
Depending on how hands on you want to be, or are able to do yourself. Pulling the engine yourself and tearing it down to asses the damage would give you an idea of what your up against and wouldn’t cost much if you have access to a few specific tools, time and the space to work on it. I’d do everything possible (within financial reason) to save the original engine over an SBT replacement.
Best of luck with the repair, I hope it all works out for you.
I know enough about engines to be dangerous but not to rebuild one. Also, I don’t have a shop or garage I can pull it into. I’m open to talking to other mechanics if anyone knows someone in central Florida. I’m even willing to help, just not sure it’s something I want to try doing myself.
Yes. The whole unit can be pulled out. Remove the fuel line and the 10 or so bolts. I use blue threadlocker when re installing.. there is a screen on bottom you will be able to see if it has junk on it.
You could unhook fuel line at engine and turn key on and see if the fuel.flow is good before doing all the above. Have a helper catch fuel , it will.blast out if fuel pump is good.
Make sure you do some research on here and other forms as well about SBT. A lot of people had very bad luck with the Yamaha engines from SBT. I just rebuild 2 engines in my ar210. Machine shop decked the head surface and bored cylinders .050 over. I bought all new gaskets for everything and all said and done it cost me about $4500 for both. $500 less than it would have cost to buy complete engines from SBT. I did go with the SBT head exchange program through, rather than rebuilding the heads. There’s a lot of parts in the head and if I was to have rebuilt both it would have cost more.
I know enough about engines to be dangerous but not to rebuild one. Also, I don’t have a shop or garage I can pull it into. I’m open to talking to other mechanics if anyone knows someone in central Florida. I’m even willing to help, just not sure it’s something I want to try doing myself.
Pulling the engines was very simple. Get yourself a service manual. I used a good strong tree branch and a chain hoist to remove the engines. Worked like a champ. Have done that with a lot of boat engines