2008 AR230 HO Starboard Engine Issue

[jwkoers67]

Good morning, I am having an issue with my Starboard Engine. I had the boat out yesterday and both motors started just fine. I let it warm up and when I started to cruise, I hit 8000 RPM and the Starboard motor died. I started it again and the same thing happened. After the 4th time, it would not start anymore. Does anyone have any insight as to what I should check? Thank you in advance!

 

[Babin Farms]

Did you check the oil level? Check spark plugs? Water coming out of pissers? Any alarms? Recently serviced?? Any other work recently performed? How long have you had the boat?

 

[jwkoers67]

Oil is full. I just ordered new spark plugs, oil and oil filters. Water wouild come out of the pissers. No alarms went off. The last service was the yearly service Nov 2019. I bought the boat April 2019. The engine would just die instantly. No sputter or anything.

 

[Babin Farms]

Just so we're on the same page, you checked the oil level after it was warmed up? After running is the oil milky? Is the air filter saturated with oil? Does the port engine get to 10k rpm's?

 

[Beachbummer]

Check the rear clean out hatch switch. Turning off on its own and not starting points to the hatch switch that kills the engine and keeps the engine from cranking, located under the clean out hatch.

Does it crank and not start? or not crank at all? If it cranks and does not start, it might be your safety lanyard switch too. The safety switch can fail only on one side. Don't think because one engine works that it cannot be this switch.

Best of Luck!

 

[Beachbummer]

This might help.

 

[jwkoers67]

I checked the oil right before I launched. The oil was full. It was not milky at that time. I did not check the oil when I put the boat back on the trailer. The Air filters on both engines were changed last year and they both look brand new. The Prot Engine runs perfectly and does get to 10 RPM's. I taked to my mechanic and he instructed me to see if the wires connected to the kill lanyard are secure and not loose. He alsoinstructed to see if I am getting a spark on the plus for that engine. I will have to check that this week. I am hoping it is something that easy. I have never had an issue with the motors.

 

[jwkoers67]

Check the rear clean out hatch switch. Turning off on its own and not starting points to the hatch switch that kills the engine and keeps the engine from cranking, located under the clean out hatch.

Does it crank and not start? or not crank at all? If it cranks and does not start, it might be your safety lanyard switch too. The safety switch can fail only on one side. Don't think because one engine works that it cannot be this switch.

Best of Luck!

Thank you! I am definitely going to check those.

 

[Babin Farms]

If the oil level is full and you hadn't even started the engines then you have too much oil in the engine. To properly check the oil level you need to have it running a minute or 2, shut it down and then check. Not getting to 10k is an issue beyond kill switches

 

[jwkoers67]

If the oil level is full and you hadn't even started the engines then you have too much oil in the engine. To properly check the oil level you need to have it running a minute or 2, shut it down and then check. Not getting to 10k is an issue beyond kill switches

Thank you for the info. I did not rea;ize that. I will be doing an oil change in the next week or so. I will make sure to over fill the oil. I ordered the oil kits from Jetboatpilot.

 

[Babin Farms]

Check this out for more info on your boat. Very informative.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/known-issues-for-boat-years-2003-2009-with-mr1-engines.15464/

Also check the FAQ

https://jetboaters.net/faq/

 

[Beachbummer]

Hatch Closed:
White to Black Open (interrupted Circuit) - Engine can Spark (same as safety lanyard)
Brown to Brown Closed (Connected Circuit) - Engine Can Crank (same as neutral safety switch)


Hatch Open:
White to Black Closed ((Connected Circuit)) - Engine cannot spark. Spark disabled(same as pulling lanyard)
Brown to Brown Open (interupted circuit) - Engine cannot crank (same as neutral safety switch - Not on Neutral behavior)

 

[jwkoers67]

Check this out for more info on your boat. Very informative.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/known-issues-for-boat-years-2003-2009-with-mr1-engines.15464/

Also check the FAQ

https://jetboaters.net/faq/

Great info!!

 

[Impelled]

Any engine problems like you described are typically fixed with a spark plug change....90% of the time. May as well replace all 8 if it hasn't been done lately~

 

[WREKS]

Could it be fuel pump issue? Swapping harnesses would require removing fuel tank cover.

 

[jwkoers67]

Yesterday I was able to go look at the boat. I opened the rear hatch and inspected the 2 kill switches. The Port side kill switch was secure. The Starboard kill switch was loose and had dropped down enough to not engage with the rear hatch. I tightened the plastic nut and checked the height of the switch. I ran the engine on the water hose and the engine ran perfectly. I appreciate everyones help and guidance. Thank you!

 

[Beachbummer]

That switch and the lanyard are the weak links of the set up. If the boat ever in the future not start as expected, bypass the lanyard to test, even if it's only one engine doing it. Both the lanyard and this safety cleanout switch failed within 2 years of each other for me. Worst case it could be bypassed while on the water to save the day.

Glad you got it resolved!

 

[Big_O]

What’s the part number for the rear hatch kill switch? I need to replace the plastic nut. Thx.

 

[zipper]

What’s the part number for the rear hatch kill switch? I need to replace the plastic nut. Thx.

For your listed 2015 AR 240... 2015 Yamaha AR240 HIGH OUTPUT (SAT1800AP) Electrical 3 | Yamaha Sports Plaza

Part # 17.

 

[Big_O]

Thanks!!