2015 VR243

[Eric Feyer]

Hey all, new jet boater here. Just bought a 243 VR in Late april. Love the boat, buying experience was good from dealer. Used it almost every day/weekend for the first two months. On June 10 I heard a noise while making a loop to pick up a skier and after that the port side engine would not start. We got the boat on the trailer and called the dealer. He said to bring it on up(we're about an hour and a half away) and he would jump on it. 4.5 weeks later and missing our first 4th of July with the boat we got it back with a new port side engine and new supercharger. The service was terrible from the dealer. No communication unless I pestered them to death. No explanation of what they found. When I would call to find out progress all they would say is "we're working on it". I once asked the manager to get me more specifics and he said they were working on it "50 yards away" and he didn't know where or what they were doing. I got the boat back filthy. Grease on floor. Found 3 screws today. Not sure what they go to... Very bad experience.
The reason for my post is, they told me to not exceed the rpms for breakin in the Manual(6-7k rpms) . Today I got two fault codes and was just wondering what anyone here thought before I dealt with this dealer again. I really don't want to bring it back there. We are planning on taking boat to Lake Gaston next week so don't want another service visit. The codes are P013F and P013A. Any thoughts are very much appreciated. Thanks again!
Eric

 

[BobJohnson]

Check out this post from just yesterday. Same error code. https://jetboaters.net/threads/check-engine-chap-223.10389/#post-177810

Sorry you had such a bad experience with your dealers service. I would write a letter to the owner of the dealer. Do you have any other dealers you can move to for service?

 

[blackhawkpilot]

@BobJohnson - Thanks for quoting my post. @Eric Feyer - I have the same issue (less than 30 hours), except I only have the P013A code with the Check Engine light flashing in my face. I've found this http://www.autocodes.com/p013f.html and this http://www.autocodes.com/p013a.html for you. They both reference the O2 sensor.

I've discovered the owner's manuals for these boats are CRAP!! They might as well have given me a manual for a 1993 Bayliner 195. But anyway...I called the dealer yesterday and spoke with the service department about it. I'm also about an hour and a half away, so a phone call is much better than a drive for me. He confirmed that it is the O2 sensor but is also nothing to worry about (immediately). He has them on back order and said he would call me when they come in so I can get it replaced. Mine still runs like a champ even with the fault codes, so I'm going to take his word for it and get back out on the water while waiting for them to come in. You "should" be OK as well, but don't take my word for it.

 

[JetTech72]

P013A & P013F are related to slow response of the 2nd O2 sensor, which is basically used as a diagnostic device to monitor the 1st O2 sensor.
They most probably have been contaminated with water, ask dealer to inspect your catalyst housing seals.
Such faults will not affect the engine operation, except having the annoying check engine light on.

 

[smashedheadcat]

Absolutely. An o2 sensor downstream of a catalytic converter is simply present to monitor catalyst efficiency. They do not adversely affect engine operation.

 

[Joatmon]

P013A & P013F are related to slow response of the 2nd O2 sensor, which is basically used as a diagnostic device to monitor the 1st O2 sensor.
They most probably have been contaminated with water, ask dealer to inspect your catalyst housing seals.
Such faults will not affect the engine operation, except having the annoying check engine light on.

I know this is an old post, but I have the same P013F fault. Now that I know what is causing the fault did you do anything to prevent the fault from reoccurring?

Thanks

 

[JetTech72]

The dealership tech said improvement were introduced starting 2017 to the Rotax Catalytic exhaust system to prevent such repetitive issue.
From what he was told the system is not yet perfect, but WAY better. Some O2 sensors failure can still occurs once in a while on boat that are used in salt water & not flushed regularly.

 

[Joatmon]

That could explain it. My 2017 Scarab has engines manufactured in 2014 and I boat in saltwater. I don't always flush thoroughly. I will see if I can find the sensor and see if I can clean.

Thanks

 

[JetTech72]

Is your exhaust system unpainted or painted?
If need be you could always by O2 sensors online : BOSCH # 0258006956 or BRP # 707600872

 

[Joatmon]

Unpainted. Thanks for the information.

 

[Jet Boat Brant]

Is your exhaust system unpainted or painted?
If need be you could always by O2 sensors online : BOSCH # 0258006956 or BRP # 707600872

Are these the same part numbers for a 2014 Scarab 215 HO Impulse? Do we have to have the CanDoo tool to clear the codes after we replace the sensors?

 

[JetTech72]

Are these the same part numbers for a 2014 Scarab 215 HO Impulse? Do we have to have the CanDoo tool to clear the codes after we replace the sensors?

Yes the O2 sensor are the same for all Rotax engines. The code should healed itself after 3 driving cycles

Best deal for O2 sensor Amazon Bosch #15894

 

[Joatmon]

Yes the O2 sensor are the same for all Rotax engines. The code should healed itself after 3 driving cycles

Best deal for O2 sensor Amazon Bosch #15894

It was my understanding there are two basic type of O2 sensors outputs. Digital (on/off) only and analog or linear to vary to output signal. The Rotax engines use the analog. Is this true?

 

[Jet Boat Brant]

Yes the O2 sensor are the same for all Rotax engines. The code should healed itself after 3 driving cycles

Best deal for O2 sensor Amazon Bosch #15894

The P013A and P013F codes are for the o2 sensor that I drew the red arrow on there correct?

 

[waternutt]

Anyone have any suggestions on removing this O2 sensor that is corroded/stuck in place? I have the proper wrench and replacement sensor but I cannot get that thing to budge.

 

[Joatmon]

I suggest spraying the sensor threads with a penetrating oil or WD40 and let soak for 30 minutes then try.

 

[Joatmon]

Once you get the sensor to move work it back and forth (unscrew and screw in) while adding more fluid to the threads.

 

[Shawn Weatherly]

Ok, the trick is to spray it with Kroil or a 50/50 mix of ATF and kerosene, and let it soak for 15 minutes then heat it up by either starting it or using a torch like a benzomatic. Then once it starts cooling down spray it again. It will come out easily