2016 AR/SX 240 50hr service

[MrMoose]

As an ex-quality engineer, it comes down to weighing the impact of failure against the expected failure rate and the cost of preventing the failure from happening (i.e. preventive maintenance). Considering that an impeller duct bearing failure can be really expensive to fix, can strand you if you only have one engine, and can ruin your vacation, pulling the cone and checking for water annually seems to be a reasonable thing to do.
The unknown in all of this is the expected failure rate, but it is important to consider that it is likely similar to that of a prop shaft... and the prop industry checks for water ingress annually.

As an aside, it's much easier to grease the pivot points (nozzle, gate, steering) when they are disassembled, which is required in order to remove the cone.

 

[swatski]

Let's not be the guy who has been eating his hamburgers raw all of his life, and tells everybody he knows that it's safe to do so.

That's why I call it beef tartare!

But in all seriousness, not sure I would compare the impeller hub to the outboard lower unit...

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[Mainah]

My number piece of advice to add to this thread is know exactly how everything is operating before performing maintenance. Many a problem have been tougher to track down because someone did not try running the boat/car/computer etc first.

 

[Bennie]

@Britboater - That was a great step-by-step informative write-up. I would recommend everyone know exactly how much the grease gun they are using displaces with every pump.

You may also want to check all screws on the boat.. yes ALL. My doors and seat hinges were getting loose. Also inspect your fuel filter and at least once a year pull off the top and inspect your fuel cell. Never want a surprise from that area of the boat.

One last thing I would like to add is to implement your trailer inspections at this time as well. At least once a year (and prior to any long trips) I would recommend checking the trailer, brakes and brake lines, wiring/lights and greasing your hubs. If you boat in salt water work those lug nuts... you don't want to wait till you're on the side of the road with a flat to find out that the nuts/studs are seized.

IMHO (20 years mechanic experience)

 

[haknslash]

Now at every 50hrs or 12 months the bearing needs 6.0-8.0cc (0.20-0.27oz), this is confusing as cc is volume and oz is weight.

The owner's manual is referring to fluid ounces (volume) and not weight. For reference 1 fl oz is 29.5735 cc.

Nice write-up BTW!

 

[Grover70]

Great write up. Thank you! My only hesitation on this is greasing my bearing carrier for the first time at 10 hours. Would you have any suggestions on making this work right the first time? Of course, the recommendation is the dealer go ahead with this at the 10 hour mark, but I'm not averse to doing it myself unless there is a high risk the first time.

 

[swatski]

Great write up. Thank you! My only hesitation on this is greasing my bearing carrier for the first time at 10 hours. Would you have any suggestions on making this work right the first time? Of course, the recommendation is the dealer go ahead with this at the 10 hour mark, but I'm not averse to doing it myself unless there is a high risk the first time.

Do exactly what @Britboater says. And you must use a teaspoon, LOL.
You will be fine, just don't forget to take that little black cap off of the grease zerk:


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[Grover70]

Got it.
Zerk? Love that name. Sounds like an 80's video game bad guy.

 

[jameskeller76]

Got it.
Zerk? Love that name. Sounds like an 80's video game bad guy.

I dropped one cap when taking it off so I won't have to worry about taking it off in the future.

 

[Grover70]

That's a good way of looking at it.
Got my grease gun today and the Yamalube should be here any day. Hitting the oil change today and just mounted the transducer under the jet nozzle near the articulated keel. Hoping for a positive result. It's a DIY boat maintenance day.

 

[LeeFlan7]

Great resource @Britboater, gotta ask...does your screen name imply you are British?

 

[rsg1963]

Good walk through. Thank you for taking the time to do this, I know this is a great example of what drew me to this site initially. It also spawned other good replies which can be equally helpful.

 

[Britboater]

Great resource @Britboater, gotta ask...does your screen name imply you are British?

I sure am but since everyone around this part of the world seems to be getting more insular, I'm a Brummie, then English, living in Wales, mostly British, occasionally a U.K. Citizen but definitely not European! .

 

[Grover70]

Do exactly what @Britboater says. And you must use a teaspoon, LOL.
You will be fine, just don't forget to take that little black cap off of the grease zerk:
View attachment 53044

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Good afternoon,
I finished the 10 hour service. Oil change was pretty easy, if not messy. Used a K&N filter. I greased the pivot points and the throttle cable. The grease gun fit on the zerk nipple. I did not see any grease drops on the floor below the bearing carrier before I pumped. I proceeded to pump three times with the gun and felt slight resistance so I stopped there. I'm assuming there should be the appropriate amount in there already from the manufacturing process? Afraid to overfill it.

 

[Grover70]

Disregard...I pumped 41 times. 40 times = 1 oz. on this grease gun. The resistance I noticed was just due to my inexperience with the lever pull weight. I read more threads and figured out my error. No grease came out of the bearing at pull 41 which leads me to believe I did not oevrfill. It's funny how this is kind of a subjective service. I guess that's why they recommend the dealer do this.

 

[swatski]

I guess that's why they recommend the dealer do this.

Right. But who do you think does it, over there...

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[Grover70]

One guess? The guy who charges $100 an hour to do the same thing??!! Do I win?

 

[Bennie]

Your guy only charges $100/hr!!!!

lucky you