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2017 212 Limited S Sticking Values

SeaDawg

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2017
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I bought the boat new in May 2018 and have had zero issues up until the end of June. I have done all of my own maintenance at or before the recommended intervals. I took the boat out twice in early June and it ran great. The last weekend in June I took it out for the 3rd time of the season and made the mistake or running with all three battery switches in the on position. I ended up with a two dead batteries about 3/4 miles from the boat launch. I was towed at very low speed back (knowing there was a risk of water getting in the engines if towed too fast) to the launch. I charged both batteries overnight and the house battery was bad. The next morning was able to start the starboard engine on the other charged battery without issue. The port engine however would just turn over, but wouldn't fire. Unfortunately because of the location where the boat was stored it was difficult to get a new battery that weekend. The following day I pulled the plugs and the safety lanyard. I turned over the starboard motor without the plugs installed and no water came out, so I figured I had not hydro locked the engine. I checked the oil and found no water. I also removed the safety lanyard switched and switched the connections with the starboard engine. The port engine still started without issue, but not the starboard.

The next weekend I replaced the bad battery and made sure the other was fully charged. On the first attempt the port engine started, but I only let it run 6-8 seconds because I did not have a hose ready to hook up, so I killed it at the key. It wouldn't start again. After a few other diagnostic tests that didn't work, I let it sit over night. The first cold start the next morning, it started, but sputtered out after 3-5 seconds, then wouldn't start again the rest of the day. I did some more troubleshooting, including replacing the second battery, but over the next two weeks it would only occasionally, on the first attempt of the day start and run for a few seconds and die within 3-5 seconds. From reading other posts about older engines it sounded like I might have as sticky exhaust value, but doing this kind of troubleshooting was getting a little out of my mechanical comfort level.

The local dealer told me they could not get me in for 5 weeks, so I called other dealers within a few hours drive and found one who could get me in right away. After a week the service manager called and told me there was no water in oil, but "moisture" in the engine and "3 or 4 sticking values." He asked me several time if I was sure the engine was not hydro locked, which I don't believe it is (which at this point is just an educated guess). He told me they could send it to a local shop for a valve job, but that could quickly take the repair to $3.5-4K.

I asked with the boat being a relatively new (I have owned for only 38 months) if this would be covered by warranty. He was not very clear on the details, but said it would not be covered. I did not purchase the additional YES warranty, as the research I did before purchase showed these engines are usually very reliable. I plan to call Yamaha directly today. I have also only used Yamaha lubricants and tracked my oil changes on the Yamalube advantage site (does this warranty actually cover anything?).

Any thoughts or recommendations on how I should proceed (or other considerations)? $4k seems high for a valve job, but ultimately I need to get the boat running again! And wounding what the changes are the engine is also hydro locked...? Suggestions for working with Yamaha direct?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

Beachbummer

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With the fact that the engine always spun when cranked, if you had any water it wasn't very much. Have you tried replacing the spark plugs? I expect compression would show low if an exhaust valve was open. Did they tell you what diagnostic they used to reach their "stuck valve" conclusion? Justification for a valve job requires much more than a phone voice stating "3 or 4 valves are sticking"

EDIT: I don;t know which direction it would be stuck on I would think the spring closes it and the cam opens it? if so compression check and leak down test should help anyway in detecting this as a problem.
 
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AZMark

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Agree with @Beachbummer that sounds a little fishy.

I’d have started by sucking out the fuel in the tank and starting fresh on that along with new spark plugs.
 

SeaDawg

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Sorry... Yes low compression on 3 or 4 cylinders (I don't remember the exact number quoted by the service manager). Plugs were changed very early on in the diagnostic I did.
 

AZMark

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Sorry... Yes low compression on 3 or 4 cylinders (I don't remember the exact number quoted by the service manager). Plugs were changed very early on in the diagnostic I did.
Ugh that really sucks.

I’d take the boat directly to someone that could do the work vs going through a dealer that passes it off to someone else.
Could you pull the head(s) yourself? That would probably reduce the cost a lot.
 

Beachbummer

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Give Seafoam Intake Valve Cleaning a shot before giving in?
 

2kwik4u

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If you have time/effort available. Pull the valve cover and LOOK at the valves. You should be able to do this where the boat sits without removing the head or the engine complete. GENTLY tap the valves with a small brass hammer/mallet, and if possible put a little Marvel Mystery Oil on them as you're doing that. Should get them to move just a slight bit, and release any "stuck" portion of them. From there pull the plugs and rotate the engine a few times by hand while watching the valves. Take note of any that don't move, and focus there on the tapping and MMO application.

If the valves are BENT, then they will need to be replaced, which requires removing the head. If they just have oil residue/buildup on them then this tapping/MMO application should free them. Once they are all free and moving, if you get that far, button the engine up and run it on the hose. If it runs well here, put it on the water and run it for a bit. Getting it good and warm.

From there you should be good to go, with only a plug change and oil change again to clear the MMO out, and unfoul the plugs.

I've done similar processes on a number of junkyard engines to bring them back to life. Works well on old rotary engines that have been sitting for years as well with carbon deposits on the apex seals.
 

SeaDawg

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I like this idea, but I was just looking at a pic someone posted who had taken the cover off and the pics in the service manual. I'm not sure I would be able to see the valves. I can' t imagine how I would see the valves with the overhead cams in the way, let alone hit them with a brass mallet. Definitely possible there is something I am missing here or not able to imagine looking at schematics...
 

2kwik4u

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I like this idea, but I was just looking at a pic someone posted who had taken the cover off and the pics in the service manual. I'm not sure I would be able to see the valves. I can' t imagine how I would see the valves with the overhead cams in the way, let alone hit them with a brass mallet. Definitely possible there is something I am missing here or not able to imagine looking at schematics...
Agreed. might have to use a brass punch tap from a slight angle to get past the cams. Whatever you use, make sure it's softer than steel. You don't want to damage the cam lobes or the valves themselves. GENTLE taps to start as well. She's a lady and takes a soft touch :D
 
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