2017 242 Limited SE complete stereo upgrade

[TSX1017]

Hi, and thanks for any questions that will be answered. We are upgrading the stereo on our boat. We went with a mild build: 6.5 inch MB Quarts to replace the factory speakers, two tower speakers, 12 inch RF M1 sub, and two Stinger marine amps(4channel/5channel).

The question was about install:
-Do you use the factory wires to the (6) 6.5 inch speakers? I’ve seen people use factory and some that run new wire.
-Where do you place the amps, and how do you tie everything into the connext unit.
-We were thinking of using the factory tower tweeter wires that are already on the tower from factory, for the tower speakers. If not how do you hide the new wire up to the tower.

 

[Miller92063]

Hi, and thanks for any questions that will be answered. We are upgrading the stereo on our boat. We went with a mild build: 6.5 inch MB Quarts to replace the factory speakers, two tower speakers, 12 inch RF M1 sub, and two Stinger marine amps(4channel/5channel).

The question was about install:
-Do you use the factory wires to the (6) 6.5 inch speakers? I’ve seen people use factory and some that run new wire.
-Where do you place the amps, and how do you tie everything into the connext unit.
-We were thinking of using the factory tower tweeter wires that are already on the tower from factory, for the tower speakers. If not how do you hide the new wire up to the tower.

You’ll want to run new wire for the speakers. Most make and amp board and mount it behind the helm. You’ll also find the stand alone stereo unit back there with your RCA outs to plug you amps into.
Use a wire snake or puller to feed through the tower after you locate you speaker can location and drill the hole.

 

[212s]

-Do you use the factory wires to the (6) 6.5 inch speakers? I’ve seen people use factory and some that run new wire.

As @Miller92063 said it's probably easier to run new wires...on some boats the stock wiring is normal with one speaker per channel, but others have some of the speakers wired in series which doesn't work as well when you install or upgrade your system and cuts power output in half. The stock wiring in my boat is 14awg which was perfect but my cockpit and rear speakers were wired in series which meant re-wiring to run them properly. My bow speakers are on their own channels and I could use the stock wiring, but running new wire to the bow is so easy it wasn't worth the hassle to locate the stock wires in the harness, pull them out and connect to my amp.

Some boats have an amp behind the helm with all the stock wiring there, and those may be an easier option to save running new wires. But my boat didn't have an amp and I wanted it beside the batteries and switches so I just ran new speaker wires as needed and connected the amp through the house switch so it was not energized when not using the boat (along with an inline ANL fuse for safety). The blue remote wire is used to turn the amp on/off when the radio is used.

-Where do you place the amps, and how do you tie everything into the connext unit.

You can place the amp where it's convenient for you...some put it behind the helm and run power wires for the amps if needed (some boats have amps behind the helm already so it's a good location for those units). I put mine beside the switches so I didn't have to run heavy power wires and RCA cables all the way to the helm.

The Connext is a "remote" for the stereo. All your pre-amp outputs to wire into the amp come out of the actual radio head unit, not the Connext. 2021 and newer boats may have the radio features in their Ennovation Connext units though which is another issue. For my boat, I just needed to run RCA cables from the Fusion head unit in the stern up to the batteries to connect to my amp. I can't remember, but I think your 2017 has the radio at the stern too?

-We were thinking of using the factory tower tweeter wires that are already on the tower from factory, for the tower speakers. If not how do you hide the new wire up to the tower.

You can use the tweeter wires if they're heavy enough - 16awg or heavier (lower number means thicker) is fine for the tower speakers and would save you fishing the wire through the tower tubes and into the sides of the boat.

 

[tdonoughue]

Just to hear from another county...

Yes, you probably should re-run your speaker wire, but in part for me that depended on how much of an 'upgrade' I was doing to the sound system. I replaced crap speakers in the tub with Polks (only) but did put in a JL 600/6 amp. I kept the stock wiring. I am sure that is not optimal, but it works fine for me for now.

As to amp location, conventional wisdom (and several amp manufacturers) will tell you to put the amp close to the batteries in order to minimize the length of the power run (which can create some significant draw). For me (my head unit is up at the helm), that would have definitely meant rerunning all of the speaker wires, plus finding a spot by the batteries for the amp (which was already crowded with stuff). I opted for the helm compartment for the amp, but I kicked the power wire up a notch (I think I put 1 gauge) for the long run.

Moral of the story: there are lots of things you should do, but many things you can get away with anyway.

Good luck and let us know how you decide to go. Hint: we like pics.

 

[redthumper9]

Your 2017 is set up a little different than mine. I ran all new speaker wire because I had to run led wire to each speaker anyway..... But, I would have no problem in your case tapping into the factory wire "if" you were only doing a mild/moderate upgrade and you can easily get to a place to tap in to all them in one convenient spot. I personally like to put the amps behind the helm where they remain high and dry. Using the tweeter wire for tower speakers would depend on the quality /thickness of the wire.

 

[TSX1017]

thank you everyone!

Where is the high level speaker wire input? Behind the touchscreen or at the Polk amp? We see the outputs on the Polk amp and SXM.

Another question, is this pictured tower hollow. Thinking about fishing the wire up our tower on the aft tower bar by drilling, sealing, and putting a rubber ring around the drilled holes. I see where we could fish up the forward tower bar, but that seems like it has a lot of the solar/light wires running up it. I don’t want to fray or puncture any of those wires.

 

[TSX1017]

This is our Polk amp, it’s in the cockpit dry storage by the batteries.

 

[TSX1017]

As @Miller92063 said it's probably easier to run new wires...on some boats the stock wiring is normal with one speaker per channel, but others have some of the speakers wired in series which doesn't work as well when you install or upgrade your system and cuts power output in half. The stock wiring in my boat is 14awg which was perfect but my cockpit and rear speakers were wired in series which meant re-wiring to run them properly. My bow speakers are on their own channels and I could use the stock wiring, but running new wire to the bow is so easy it wasn't worth the hassle to locate the stock wires in the harness, pull them out and connect to my amp.

Some boats have an amp behind the helm with all the stock wiring there, and those may be an easier option to save running new wires. But my boat didn't have an amp and I wanted it beside the batteries and switches so I just ran new speaker wires as needed and connected the amp through the house switch so it was not energized when not using the boat (along with an inline ANL fuse for safety). The blue remote wire is used to turn the amp on/off when the radio is used.

You can place the amp where it's convenient for you...some put it behind the helm and run power wires for the amps if needed (some boats have amps behind the helm already so it's a good location for those units). I put mine beside the switches so I didn't have to run heavy power wires and RCA cables all the way to the helm.

The Connext is a "remote" for the stereo. All your pre-amp outputs to wire into the amp come out of the actual radio head unit, not the Connext. 2021 and newer boats may have the radio features in their Ennovation Connext units though which is another issue. For my boat, I just needed to run RCA cables from the Fusion head unit in the stern up to the batteries to connect to my amp. I can't remember, but I think your 2017 has the radio at the stern too?

You can use the tweeter wires if they're heavy enough - 16awg or heavier (lower number means thicker) is fine for the tower speakers and would save you fishing the wire through the tower tubes and into the sides of the boat.

We do have the Polk radio on the port side stern on the swim deck. Is that where the input or RCAs may be? We found the Polk amp in the cockpit dry storage by the batteries.

 

[TSX1017]

This is the set up we ended up going with.

 

[212s]

We do have the Polk radio on the port side stern on the swim deck. Is that where the input or RCAs may be? We found the Polk amp in the cockpit dry storage by the batteries.

Most likely there, but since you have an amp, see if there's RCA inputs at the amp - saves you digging in the back.