DRock3d
Jet Boat Lover
- Messages
- 94
- Reaction score
- 57
- Points
- 67
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2013
- Boat Model
- Limited S
- Boat Length
- 24
I have a 2013 242 Limited S that I've begun the audio upgrade journey on. My wife hates loud music but I'd like to be able to hear music when I'm on my floatie drinking beer; zone control will be important. My factory head unit likes to reboot itself when the volume is high so I'm looking to make some moves this season. Last season I swapped the factory polks with Kicker KM614Ls and I have a pile of audio gear that came with the boat to utilize in addition but I have a few questions before I proceed.
1. I would like to replace the head unit with a Fusion RA210, is it worth an $100 to go to the RA670 and what should I do about the transom remote? My remote is round but fusions are usually rectangular.
https://www.amazon.com/Fusion®-MS-RA210-Marine-Stereo-Garmin/dp/B082FQBVS5
2. I have a Polk DB4000.4 Amp, is this too much power for the Kicker KM614Ls I have installed?
PA D4000.4 - Super Efficient Class D Bridgeable 4-Channel Mobile Audio Amplifier | Polk - US
3. How are the speakers wired from the factory? I have only swapped them but the wiring is a mystery to me, should I pull fresh wire?
4. Would it be better to put the amp in the battery compartment or behind the helm? If behind the helm, what is the best route for cables and what gauge/length should I use?
5. The boat came with 4 tower speakers, Polk MM1 6x9s, if I decide to put them back up I'd probably only put two up because they are giant. Would I be able to power the bow and tower tweeters from the head unit and use the amp to power the rear 4 speakers and the two tower speakers? Would it be best to wire all of the speakers in parallel to the amp to have a 2ohm load on all 4 channels?
6. Is my tower hollow all the way through so I can pull wire through it? The previous owner just ziptied the speaker wires to the tower and it looked terrible and collected dirt. I have seen some 242s where they have to bypass a solid section of the tower but I don't think that is the case for all years.
Thank you in advance for any input you may have, I've been out of the audio game for a long time so I need all the help I can get!
1. I would like to replace the head unit with a Fusion RA210, is it worth an $100 to go to the RA670 and what should I do about the transom remote? My remote is round but fusions are usually rectangular.
https://www.amazon.com/Fusion®-MS-RA210-Marine-Stereo-Garmin/dp/B082FQBVS5
2. I have a Polk DB4000.4 Amp, is this too much power for the Kicker KM614Ls I have installed?
PA D4000.4 - Super Efficient Class D Bridgeable 4-Channel Mobile Audio Amplifier | Polk - US
3. How are the speakers wired from the factory? I have only swapped them but the wiring is a mystery to me, should I pull fresh wire?
4. Would it be better to put the amp in the battery compartment or behind the helm? If behind the helm, what is the best route for cables and what gauge/length should I use?
5. The boat came with 4 tower speakers, Polk MM1 6x9s, if I decide to put them back up I'd probably only put two up because they are giant. Would I be able to power the bow and tower tweeters from the head unit and use the amp to power the rear 4 speakers and the two tower speakers? Would it be best to wire all of the speakers in parallel to the amp to have a 2ohm load on all 4 channels?
6. Is my tower hollow all the way through so I can pull wire through it? The previous owner just ziptied the speaker wires to the tower and it looked terrible and collected dirt. I have seen some 242s where they have to bypass a solid section of the tower but I don't think that is the case for all years.
Thank you in advance for any input you may have, I've been out of the audio game for a long time so I need all the help I can get!