2018 210 FSH - Steering cable gone already

[Foobar]

I took the boat out today for sea trials to get it ready for the season. The steering was brutal to turn. Got home, check the cables, and the rubber grommet on one of the cables has a gap in it. I am sure the salt from last season did a number on it. I have like 20 hours on this boat. Amazing.

I am not even going to bother with that dealer warranty crap. I can already hear them saying "corrosion is not covered". Yeah, it wouldn't be corroded if you didn't sell me a boat with a piece of shit cable.

If anyone has some aftermarket part numbers, please share.

 

[Ehren]

Have the same issue with my 2017 FSH 190 with less then 20 hours on it. Haven't brought it into the dealer yet for warranty work, didnt think they would deny replacing the cable...

 

[swatski]

Yeah, those rubber "boots" are completely useless.
I have found that soaking the cables in CRC656 (or similar) helps a lot, I do that basically after every outing, and move the AK side to side, repeat several times - spray and move. It keeps the cables from freezing up, for now, it's been 3.5 seasons and they work like they did new.
I started buying that stuff in gallon size jugs, go figure, lol.

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[swatski]

@Bruce figured out the maker of the OEM cables, those can be had for much lower price, aftermarket.

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[Leonidas514]

Foobar

Any pics? I'm not very well versed with these boats, is it where it connects under the center console or somewhere else I need to be looking?

 

[Bruce]

Part numbers are here

https://jetboaters.net/threads/seastar-teleflex-steering-systems-and-cables.10706/

I am guessing that your cable is the same as a 210.

 

[Liveto99]

100 hours on mine salt water 95 of them. Wash and hit with Sea Foam Deep Creep. spray down all the outside medal with it except the zinks.
no problem as of yet. And I leave it in a week at a time in the winter on vacation 4 weeks total. Ill put of a pic of it when I get to my iPad.

 

[Foobar]

Thanks all for the replies. I am going to call around tomorrow and try to source a set. Mine are pretty rough to turn, I think it might be prudent just to replace them in the event they became frayed from all the grinding. They just get worse the more I turn them. I spent the afternoon trying to force oil into them. No change.

@Bruce - Not too sure about that one. Only thing listed for the 210 is the reverse cable. I might give Seastar a call. Maybe they will know.

 

[Bruce]

@Foobar, the 210 and 212 are the same hull.

In most instances the ends are the same, only the length differs. Let me know what you use and I will update the chart.

I absolutely would change both steering and shift cables while you are at it.

 

[Foobar]

@Bruce - my bigger question is how the hell do you get that bolt off? There is almost no room in there. I am going to try that "through socket" set from Lowes. Hope it works.

 

[Liveto99]

Is your dealer that bad? Then just have him order and give you the cables. If it will take a lot of time have him get them put ones that you get on and save them for next time. When I got it back from 100 hour service they were covered with a brown grease. they put that grease all over every swivel joint on the steering also.

 

[Beachbummer]

You can try oiling/greasing them. If the rust is superficial they may come back right away.

 

[Foobar]

My dealer charges $350 for an oil change and basic maintenance. Per engine. So, $700 to change the oil, a filter, grease some cables, and put in some grease with a grease gun. They do things incorrectly, or half assed. Their "inspection" and delivery of the boat was a joke. I had to go over the entire boat correcting numerous flaws and oversights on a brand new boat. Some items were part of the dealer prep. Total fail.

They take weeks and months to turn around boats on simple issues. They did a carb job for a friend. They forgot to put the jets back in. Knew one guy that took in a Mule for service. Came back leaking oil, and I don't mean a little bit. Another guy needed some standard (easy to get) bearings replace. Took them 52 days. They also did the bearing install incorrectly.

So, yes, they are that bad. Most of them are. Because of Yamaha's dealer practices they are also the only dealer for about 200 miles. If you are half way mechanically inclined, can read, and can afford $50 for the service manual for your boat, you are better off doing everything yourself.

 

[Foobar]

You can try oiling/greasing them. If the rust is superficial they may come back right away.

Already did that.

 

[NateKurtz]

Already did that.

Did you try the method done by people on this thread?
https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-luber.9755/
Think I might try this for preventative maintenance on my 210.

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce - my bigger question is how the hell do you get that bolt off? There is almost no room in there. I am going to try that "through socket" set from Lowes. Hope it works.

Is that the nut where the cable passes through the transom? I believe I used a large pass through socket.

 

[Foobar]

Did you try the method done by people on this thread?
https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-luber.9755/
Think I might try this for preventative maintenance on my 210.

Yes, but I am going to try again with a thinner oil before I move to changing the cables.

 

[Foobar]

Is that the nut where the cable passes through the transom? I believe I used a large pass through socket.

Yeah, that is what I was gong to try. It just looks like pure hell getting some leverage on it.

 

[Bruce]

Yeah, that is what I was gong to try. It just looks like pure hell getting some leverage on it.

I do not remember that nut being an issue. The massive volume of sealant on the inside of the hull was a pain.

 

[Foobar]

I do not remember that nut being an issue. The massive volume of sealant on the inside of the hull was a pain.

I literally touched my "silicone ball" and it just fell off the hull.