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@Foobar I've been chasing cathodic protection in our boats, and have found none of the cables are bonded, nor lots of other things. I suspect that is part of the cause of the quick death of your cables. I haven't proven it out, but I grounded mine under the helm to see if it helps. Now when I put an ohm meter on the cables at the back of the boat to the anode, I get 0 ohms. This should help protect the cables via the anode sacrifice.
I recently did a 100 hr service at 120 hrs. During the service I forced oil through the thrust control cables. Although they didn't seem tight, they were even smoother afterwards, meaning there was some deterioration. Limited salt water exposure though, 3 weeks every day in brackish water, and 1 week in saltwater. I still, with many bonding tries haven't gotten my boat to 0.8 volts as a fiberglass boat with aluminum jet drives should be.
Ok, chalk me up for a bad steering cable as well. Unfortunately, just started a three week vacation in Destin and the boat is in the water. Hoping I can live with it for the vacation duration providing it doesn't get much worse. Only 120 hours, garage stored, always washed down and well lubed or so I thought. Guess not. Last trip out was in Lake Michigan roughly a year ago. (stupid Covid) Put lots of hours on it there with zero problems. It must not have liked sitting in the garage all winter and most of the summer.
@Bruce - my bigger question is how the hell do you get that bolt off? There is almost no room in there. I am going to try that "through socket" set from Lowes. Hope it works.
I used one of those pass-thru socket sets. I believe I had to order a 7/8", 1" or 1 1/8" socket from Sears. (Sorry don't remember which, but you can measure it.)
@Tom maser I just replaced my steering cables, just under 100 hours on my 2020 AR210. Was easy. This is what I used. I ordered one, but also found one local Auto Parts store. I have two now.....