2021 275 SD - Fogging Engines for 5 month Winterization

[wschrade]

Good afternoon,

Question about fogging a 2021 275 SD for winter storage in Hampton Roads, VA (not usually a bitterly cold climate). I have watched several YouTube videos that are a a few years old about fogging for other Yamaha jet boats. Basically they say get the boat in a maintenance stand, remove the air filter, run the engine with hose water, and spray fogging oil into the air intake in short bursts. The engine will cough, and eventually stall. Immediately stop the water, replace the air filter then you are done. I think that is basically how it goes.

Anyway, I started to do that with my 2021 275 SD after changing the oil. I was surprised to see that the air filter is screwed in, and that the work area is quite tight to get all three screws out of the air filter. So I stopped before I regretted getting too far into the job before I asked some advice.

Does the above procedure sound right to everyone? Should I continue to pull the air filter out? I have read enough of the fogging posts to get the jist that some people don't fog. Why not? Thanks for any advice you are willing to give.

 

[Miitch]

you can pull your spark plugs, spray some fogging oil in each of the cylinders, turn the engine over with no spark plugs a few times and be good to go. No need to spray directly into the air intake with the engine running. Myself and plenty of others have done this method with no issues come summer time

 

[Michal]

Good afternoon,

Question about fogging a 2021 275 SD for winter storage in Hampton Roads, VA (not usually a bitterly cold climate). I have watched several YouTube videos that are a a few years old about fogging for other Yamaha jet boats. Basically they say get the boat in a maintenance stand, remove the air filter, run the engine with hose water, and spray fogging oil into the air intake in short bursts. The engine will cough, and eventually stall. Immediately stop the water, replace the air filter then you are done. I think that is basically how it goes.

Anyway, I started to do that with my 2021 275 SD after changing the oil. I was surprised to see that the air filter is screwed in, and that the work area is quite tight to get all three screws out of the air filter. So I stopped before I regretted getting too far into the job before I asked some advice.

Does the above procedure sound right to everyone? Should I continue to pull the air filter out? I have read enough of the fogging posts to get the jist that some people don't fog. Why not? Thanks for any advice you are willing to give.

Do a little more research on fogging. You have supercharged engines, I believe that for those you want to spray directly into the port via the sparkplug hole. From what I understand is that you do NOT want to get that oil into your supercharger! On a side note, I'm only just a bit south of you and I do not fog my engine.

 

[WV Hillbilly]

Can open. Worms all over the place….

I’ll just address winterization in general, there are many threads on this topic and opinions are like elbows, everyone has a couple.

I wouldn’t choke the engine off with fogging and then shut the water down. I would want to blow water out of it at least. That being said, these boats are pretty much self draining and the rounded chambers in the exhaust and other areas do not lend themselves well to freeze cracking, in other words, even if you have some water left there is ample room for it to expand without breaking anything.

Being overly cautious and needing to escape some of my honey do list, I ran RV antifreeze through mine (to make me feel better for five bucks worth of “protection”). I then blew it out just like I do after every use. Once done I pulled the plugs and squirted a bit of fogging oil in the cylinders, bumped it over a couple of times, replaced the plugs and called it good.

I probably did more than needed in the eastern panhandle of WV (think a little cooler than DC or about like Winchester VA or Hagerstown MD) but I am also the guy that puts Yamaha additives in the gas tank at every top off or fill up. Again probably more than you “need” to do.

everyone else can chime in now…. ?

 

[Miitch]

@Michal bought up a good point... It slipped my mind that your engines are supercharged.. Which means anything you spray in your air intake is going to pass through your superchargers.

Big no on the fogging in the air intake method in my books.

 

[wschrade]

A big thank you to all of you and this forum in general!

So just to make sure I get the procedure if I choose to move forward:

While I change my spark plugs I should "spray" a little fogging oil straight into the cylinder. How long a squirt from an aerosol can of fogging oil? I think I have read a 3 second burst? that seems kind of a long squirt.

Anyway after squirting in each plug hole, then I crank the engine without the plugs in by pressing the engine start/stop button enough for the engine to crank ( a second or two)?

After cranking the engine over, then another short squirt of fogging oil.

Finish by replacing the spark plugs.

Can I start the engine for short period after putting the plugs back in to ensure it starts? or would that neutralize the fogging oil?

Thanks all.

 

[Michal]

@wschrade All that sounds good, the only thing I would probably do differently is put the old spark plugs back in for storage. I would replace next season after you burn the oil out.

 

[WV Hillbilly]

@wschrade All that sounds good, the only thing I would probably do differently is put the old spark plugs back in for storage. I would replace next season after you burn the oil out.

I agree.

One change:
I wouldn’t start it after squinting the fogging oil, I rolled mine over with a towel over the plug holes with the lanyard pulled so there would be no spark and then put the old plugs in.

 

[biffdotorg]

Again, the biggest reason Yamaha does not use the term Winterization in their manual is because you are not preparing it for cold. Their annual service and long term storage recommendations are well defined.

If you have run your engines and blown out water, you have done all you need to do for cold weather. In your manual, it states what you should do for "long term storage" ie: Stabilize fuel, lubricate, etc etc. Fogging and how to do it is listed for engines that it should be performed on and how to do it.

So as the others have said, this has nothing to do with cold, but rather how long the engine will sit. you are minimizing corrosion, and keeping things lubricated with fogging. Stabilizing fuel for phase separation and possible condensation. As far as the plugs, do as your manual states and change them when you reach a certain amount of hours, or you see a drop in RPM's. But never change them before burning off fogging oil, if you so choose to fog your motor. You just fouled the new plugs you put in (potentially)

And if you choose not to fog, understand that your plugs may not need to be changed anytime in the near future. Enjoy!

 

[MidnightRider]

What's been said...
- spray some fogging oil in all the cylinders
- pull the lanyard
- crank the engine(s) over for a few seconds to slosh some oil around and hopefully up into the valves
- put the old spark plugs back in
- change the plugs after the first tank of gas in the spring

I do make sure I either tape the spray can "straw" or hold on to the straw so you don't blow it into the cylinder - ask me how I know. -_-

 

[Trm1765]

I don't understand the whole fogging intention, what are we trying to accomplish? These fuel injected engines are basically sealed, unlike the older carbureted engines that we had in the past that had a benefit to fogging. I worked in the emergency medical field for many years, and over the years seen many interventions performed that had no benefit except to make the provider feel better that they did something, but had no benefit to the patient.. I see fogging as the same thing, makes the owner feel good that they did something,, but no benefit to the engine. There are new boats sitting in dealers all over the place, none of them are fogged, and none of the Yamahas are winterized with antifreeze or all the other interventions that make the owner feel good. My boat is a 2012. It sits for 6 months or more every year in my fabulous climate. I have never fogged it, it still runs like the day that I bought it in 2012. And no antifreeze, even thought it gets to -20 F every year. But that is just me.

 

[MidnightRider]

I don't understand the whole fogging intention, what are we trying to accomplish? These fuel injected engines are basically sealed, unlike the older carbureted engines that we had in the past that had a benefit to fogging. I worked in the emergency medical field for many years, and over the years seen many interventions performed that had no benefit except to make the provider feel better that they did something, but had no benefit to the patient.. I see fogging as the same thing, makes the owner feel good that they did something,, but no benefit to the engine. There are new boats sitting in dealers all over the place, none of them are fogged, and none of the Yamahas are winterized with antifreeze or all the other interventions that make the owner feel good. My boat is a 2012. It sits for 6 months or more every year in my fabulous climate. I have never fogged it, it still runs like the day that I bought it in 2012. And no antifreeze, even thought it gets to -20 F every year. But that is just me.

Not sure where you got the idea that fuel injection motors are sealed. Moist air can very easily enter the cylinder through the intake and exhaust via open and partially open valves same as a carbureted engine - can cause corrosion on both cyclinders and valves. The benefits of fogging can definitely be debated based on how long you leave the engine sit. As well as the down side of spray fogging oil in through the intake mucking up the sensors in there (I only ever spray directing in the cylinders and roll the engine over a few times to slosh the oil around the cylinder and up into the values as much as possible). But as far as needing or not needing protection from moist air and corrosion, the reasons are not that much different between a carbureted engine or a FI engine that I can see.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Have to agree with @MidnightRider I fog my engines so that moisture won't cause corrosion. It may or may not occur, but I would rather go the extra mile. Moist air can make it's way into your cylinders and valves.

 

[Pete B]

Love the information. But, I am not sure why no one is suggesting having the dealer service the boat before and after the season. I don't think it's crazy to think that if I am going to spend $100,000 on a boat, that I will have qualified personnel maintain it. It may be easy to do the work, but I don't trust myself and don't want to ruin or damage the boat to save a few bucks. I don't have my boat yet, but every other boat I have owned have been dealer serviced with fabulous results. It may cost a few bucks more, but I know that the work is done to Yamaha specifications. Just my 2-cents for what it's worth.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Pete B

Really no point in having the dealer service them, other than it gives you a sense of comfort, or you don't feel comfortable or don't have the skillset. Some don't have the time either to do work on their own boats, which I get. On the Yamaha's it is quite simple. Also I personally will do a much better and thorough job of servicing my own watercraft for most things. Just by going to a dealer doesn't mean that their technician or staff will do a good job. You can see the various dealer results here on the forums from Excellent to down right negligent. I have spoken with service tech's and was dismayed at times of their lack of knowledge. No guarantee anything is done specifications. Also there isn't much to do for winterization nor for preseason.

There will come a time when you will have to work on your own boat, perhaps in an emergency. Also some dealers have super long lead and wait times to get boats in. 4-6 weeks or more. With boating season short here in Michigan, I like being prepared to deal with just about anything I will encounter during the boating season and need to troubleshoot or fix.

Whatever makes someone comfortable is what I suggest.

 

[Pete B]

Great point about the competence levels of the dealer service staff. Actually one of the reasons I joined the forum was to find out how to properly maintain and service my boat on my own. I will keep reading posts and and doing my homework before I do any work, though. I want to feel 100% confident that I won't ruin anything. I do appreciate all of the great information.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Pete B

You will be fine. Oil Changes, Filter Changes, minor adjustments, spray lubricant on hinges, spark plug changes including verifying gapping and fogging and grease the bearings is really all you ever need to do. That is the entire maintenance routine. With a few tools you are pretty much good to go. Also trailer maintenance, lubrication and grease your bearings.

A lot of people on this forum to help.

 

[biffdotorg]

Great point about the competence levels of the dealer service staff. Actually, one of the reasons I joined the forum was to find out how to properly maintain and service my boat on my own. I will keep reading posts and doing my homework before I do any work, though. I want to feel 100% confident that I won't ruin anything. I do appreciate all of the great information.

For that exact reason is why I will not allow any local dealers do any form of annual maintenance on my boat. Here in MN, as soon as the air cools and docks are pulled, the dealerships have lots full of boats waiting for Winterization. Literally hundreds at each dealership. You know they are shoe-horning those boats and PWC through at mach speed. And the chance of doing something wrong, or missing something are far too great.

That and the fact that we would be forced to use a Yamaha waverunner service center. I don't need that stress of drop off/pick up and my boat sitting out in the elements while it waits. Nope, I will do it myself.

 

[HangOutdoors]

While I change my spark plugs I should "spray" a little fogging oil straight into the cylinder. How long a squirt from an aerosol can of fogging oil? I think I have read a 3 second burst? that seems kind of a long squirt.

When I winterize, I don't change the plugs for fresh ones when I fog. I prefer, in the spring, to burn off the tank off the fogging oil and tank of fuel that I had winterization chemicals in (Stabil Storage Fuel Stabilizer) first with the old plugs. Then once that is done, I do a complete oil change and then change to new plugs at the same time.

 

[biffdotorg]

When I winterize, I don't change the plugs for fresh ones when I fog. I prefer, in the spring, to burn off the tank off the fogging oil and tank of fuel that I had winterization chemicals in (Stabil Storage Fuel Stabilizer) first with the old plugs. Then once that is done, I do a complete oil change and then change to new plugs at the same time.

Best advice yet. The most common way to foul a spark plug. 1. not allowing an engine to warm up before shutting down 2. Engine fogging oil, or any oil for that matter in the cyclinder. (why two strokes fouled plugs annually)

Best bet is to swap spark plugs on the recommended interval, or when you notice a decrease in RPM's.