2021 275 SD - Fogging Engines for 5 month Winterization

[Fish]

Not sure where you got the idea that fuel injection motors are sealed. Moist air can very easily enter the cylinder through the intake and exhaust via open and partially open valves same as a carbureted engine - can cause corrosion on both cyclinders and valves. The benefits of fogging can definitely be debated based on how long you leave the engine sit. As well as the down side of spray fogging oil in through the intake mucking up the sensors in there (I only ever spray directing in the cylinders and roll the engine over a few times to slosh the oil around the cylinder and up into the values as much as possible). But as far as needing or not needing protection from moist air and corrosion, the reasons are not that much different between a carbureted engine or a FI engine that I can see.

True @biffdotorg, I also I heard from my mechanic that the engines typically stop at a point where the (I think) #2 cylinder is partially open. Anyone else heard this?

 

[Bill275]

thank you all for the great info on winterizing the engine. I will be storing my Boat for a few months with Sub zero temps. totally get the fogging and lube points but I see nothing in the manual or heard anyone talk about how you winterize the fresh water tank, and pump or how to winterize the bilge pump. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[biffdotorg]

I see nothing in the manual or heard anyone talk about how you winterize the fresh water tank, and pump or how to winterize the bilge pump. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Don't over think it. The bilge pump does not hold water, as it runs until it cannot push any more water. Anything that would gather in that pump will easily dry, its that small of an amount. Worst case, dump some RV antifreeze in the hull until the pump turns on. Then you know you have Antifreeze in the pump. But I have never heard of anyone doing that, as the pump is dry within 24hrs of leaving the lake, unless you failed to pull your hull plug. (that's a law in MN)

As far as the fresh water tank, treat it like an RV. If you never used it, nothing to worry about. If you did, flush some RV antifreeze through it. Game over. We never use our fresh water tank, so I don't touch it.

 

[Fish]

True @biffdotorg, I also I heard from my mechanic that the engines typically stop at a point where the (I think) #2 cylinder is partially open. Anyone else heard this?

@biffdotorg I have heard the same thing from my mechanic about the engine always stopping in the same place so the cylinder is exposed to the outside air from an open valve. I thought it was the #3 cylinder but I could be wrong. Point being, "yes" I've heard that before

 

[Bill275]

Don't over think it. The bilge pump does not hold water, as it runs until it cannot push any more water. Anything that would gather in that pump will easily dry, its that small of an amount. Worst case, dump some RV antifreeze in the hull until the pump turns on. Then you know you have Antifreeze in the pump. But I have never heard of anyone doing that, as the pump is dry within 24hrs of leaving the lake, unless you failed to pull your hull plug. (that's a law in MN)

As far as the fresh water tank, treat it like an RV. If you never used it, nothing to worry about. If you did, flush some RV antifreeze through it. Game over. We never use our fresh water tank, so I don't touch it.

Very helpful thank you!