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2022 195s Sound System install thread! PIC HEAVY!!!

TXtraumaRN

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tldr: Love my JBL install. Sound test to come. Specs start about half way down.

The intent was never was to install a whole "party" type sound system into my brand new 2022 195s, yet here I am doing a write up on my install...
Starting with my maiden voyage back in December when I couldn't hear the stock speakers at 100% while at 3/4 throttle, I knew I had to do something. I read somewhere that someone said all you have to do is put a small amp on the stock speakers, and I thought "what the hell, may as well switch them out for JBL's as well. Then the wife said (yes seriously) "are you gonna put Tower Speakers on too"? Well, hell yes! And of course, those needed a Larger Amp. And that amp also had a 5th channel for a subwoofer so I bought a Subwoofer.
I've done installs before, mostly on cars, never on a boat. And the fine gentlemen here on JBN helped me realize that I had no idea what the F I was doing. I quickly realized my towers were way under powered, my cabins were way over powered, and I didn't have nearly the power I needed for my sub.
Here's the interesting part... I bought a single kicker 10" sub in a tube, but I bought the wrong one (I needed 2ohm vs 4ohm). Tried to return the 4ohm within the 30 day window, and although within my rights, eBay seller gave me grief. Decided to buy the 2ohm off Amazon while waiting on this doofus, and in the process, the eBay seller offered to swap out the 4ohm for a 2ohm."F it, why not?" so now I have 2 10" kicker subs and had to buy Another Amp. So, 4 blown cabin speakers, and 10x's more money than intended later... Here we are. My JBL install...

4 - 6" JBL cabin speakers powered by a JBL 400w marine Amp running at 70w RMS x4 ch.

2 - JBL 8" Tower speakers powered by a JBL 1800w marine Amp. Towers are getting 130w RMS bridged x's 2.

2 - Kicker 10" enclosed tube subs. One sub is getting 500w RMS from the above mentioned 1800w JBL Amp, and the other is getting 500w RMS from a Kicker 500w mono block marine amp.

The cabin speakers sound phenomenal. Even at full speed with the volume only half way up I can hear them clearly.
The Towers I am impressed with so far, but haven't had a chance to test it from a distance (sand bar, wake boarding etc). The front facing woofers give great mids while providing clarity with some highs, but they also have rear facing tweeters as well so you get full sound all the way around. As a bonus (requirement in my book) they also swivel 360* so you can turn the woofers towards the party. They do also have RGB LED rings, but I haven't even hooked those up yet.
The 2 subs provide quite the punch. Once I switched to 2ohms at 500w RMS you could definitely hear the difference. The second sub was unplanned, and although they sound great, it's not quite the "Jurrasic Park* type bass I was hoping for. But I'm pleased with it.

All wiring for the cabin speakers was kept stock and spliced in using 12awg speaker wire. The towers were mounted and 12awg marine speaker wire run through the tower and any exposed wire was covered with mesh cable wrap. And the same marine speaker wire was run to the subs respectively. I have about 3 feet of 2awg wire run to a fused power block, then 4awg running to each Amp (less than 18" run to ea). All in all the whole system is mounted on two separate pieces of 3/4" plywood wrapped in Grey all weather carpeting to match. The lines, cables, and speaker wires are all long enough to be able to pull the entire sytem out independently to fix, change, or work on it but it is still firmly mounted in place so that it doesn't bounce or move around. There is also a 120A fuse with a manual trip/reset before the power block. This is to disconnect all power for storage.

Things to do, fix, change...
- Wedge blocks for the board mounts. The boards lie against the port wall and a block on the floor will be used to wedge them in place.
- Re-run lines to the tower speakers. I mistakenly ran the lines to the middle of the tower instead of to each speaker. I don't like the exposed wire.
- Install the "add-a-battery* kit and charger. Currently everything is run off the stock battery (already have all parts and battery to do this).
- Install switch panel at the helm for independent control of the amps.

Once it warms up I'll get a sound test posted. As of now, I have no issues with the system. Ran her for about an hour the other day when family was in town and amps didn't even get warm. 👍

A special thanks to @Farny @212s @Daddy Fat Sacs
@jocolo21 and all those who helped! This forum is a wealth of knowledge.

JBL Cabins
20220313_171348.jpg
Tower Rear view
20220313_164756.jpg
Tower front
20220313_164728.jpg
Subs
20220312_165203.jpg
Mounted and ready
20220303_163703.jpg
 
Last edited:

TXtraumaRN

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JBL - Marine Series 8" 2 Way Tower Speaker

JBL 180W, 6.5 Marine Speakers
MS 6520 | 6" Coaxial, 180W Marine Speaker

JBL - 4-channel marine amplifier

JBL - 5-channel Marine Amplifier

KICKER 10 Inch Ultra Deep Subwoofer Tube,

MTX - 500W RMS Mono Block Marine Amplifier
 

Farny

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Wow you’ve really got a floating boom box. I’ll know you are on lake Conroe when I see the catfish floating to the top stunned from the music thump!

Looks good! Can’t wait to hear it!
 

Pedrazaj1

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tldr: Love my JBL install. Sound test to come. Specs start about half way down.

The intent was never was to install a whole "party" type sound system into my brand new 2022 195s, yet here I am doing a write up on my install...
Starting with my maiden voyage back in December when I couldn't hear the stock speakers at 100% while at 3/4 throttle, I knew I had to do something. I read somewhere that someone said all you have to do is put a small amp on the stock speakers, and I thought "what the hell, may as well switch them out for JBL's as well. Then the wife said (yes seriously) "are you gonna put Tower Speakers on too"? Well, hell yes! And of course, those needed a Larger Amp. And that amp also had a 5th channel for a subwoofer so I bought a Subwoofer.
I've done installs before, mostly on cars, never on a boat. And the fine gentlemen here on JBO helped me realize that I had no idea what the F I was doing. I quickly realized my towers were way under powered, my cabins were way over powered, and I didn't have nearly the power I needed for my sub.
Here's the interesting part... I bought a single kicker 10" sub in a tube, but I bought the wrong one (I needed 2ohm vs 4ohm). Tried to return the 4ohm within the 30 day window, and although within my rights, eBay seller gave me grief. Decided to buy the 2ohm off Amazon while waiting on this doofus, and in the process, the eBay seller offered to swap out the 4ohm for a 2ohm."F it, why not?" so now I have 2 10" kicker subs and had to buy Another Amp. So, 4 blown cabin speakers, and 10x's more money than intended later... Here we are. My JBL install...

4 - 6" JBL cabin speakers powered by a JBL 400w marine Amp running at 70w RMS x4 ch.

2 - JBL 8" Tower speakers powered by a JBL 1800w marine Amp. Towers are getting 130w RMS bridged x's 2.

2 - Kicker 10" enclosed tube subs. One sub is getting 500w RMS from the above mentioned 1800w JBL Amp, and the other is getting 500w RMS from a Kicker 500w mono block marine amp.

The cabin speakers sound phenomenal. Even at full speed with the volume only half way up I can hear them clearly.
The Towers I am impressed with so far, but haven't had a chance to test it from a distance (sand bar, wake boarding etc). The front facing woofers give great mids while providing clarity with some highs, but they also have rear facing tweeters as well so you get full sound all the way around. As a bonus (requirement in my book) they also swivel 360* so you can turn the woofers towards the party. They do also have RGB LED rings, but I haven't even hooked those up yet.
The 2 subs provide quite the punch. Once I switched to 2ohms at 500w RMS you could definitely hear the difference. The second sub was unplanned, and although they sound great, it's not quite the "Jurrasic Park* type bass I was hoping for. But I'm pleased with it.

All wiring for the cabin speakers was kept stock and spliced in using 12awg speaker wire. The towers were mounted and 12awg marine speaker wire run through the tower and any exposed wire was covered with mesh cable wrap. And the same marine speaker wire was run to the subs respectively. I have about 3 feet of 2awg wire run to a fused power block, then 4awg running to each Amp (less than 18" run to ea). All in all the whole system is mounted on two separate pieces of 3/4" plywood wrapped in Grey all weather carpeting to match. The lines, cables, and speaker wires are all long enough to be able to pull the entire sytem out independently to fix, change, or work on it but it is still firmly mounted in place so that it doesn't bounce or move around. There is also a 120A fuse with a manual trip/reset before the power block. This is to disconnect all power for storage.

Things to do, fix, change...
- Wedge blocks for the board mounts. The boards lie against the port wall and a block on the floor will be used to wedge them in place.
- Re-run lines to the tower speakers. I mistakenly ran the lines to the middle of the tower instead of to each speaker. I don't like the exposed wire.
- Install the "add-a-battery* kit and charger. Currently everything is run off the stock battery (already have all parts and battery to do this).
- Install switch panel at the helm for independent control of the amps.

Once it warms up I'll get a sound test posted. As of now, I have no issues with the system. Ran her for about an hour the other day when family was in town and amps didn't even get warm. 👍

A special thanks to @Farny @212s @Daddy Fat Sacs
@jocolo21 and all those who helped! This forum is a wealth of knowledge.

JBL Cabins
View attachment 173858
Tower Rear view
View attachment 173859
Tower front
View attachment 173860
Subs
View attachment 173861
Mounted and ready
View attachment 173862
Hello @TXtraumaRN nice set up, I have one of those 10" kicker subwofer at 400rms just like the book said to set them to. how is the subwoofer handling the 500rms on your so far?
 

TXtraumaRN

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Hello @TXtraumaRN nice set up, I have one of those 10" kicker subwofer at 400rms just like the book said to set them to. how is the subwoofer handling the 500rms on your so far?
They seems to be doing fine. I haven't had much time with them yet, but no distortion or overheating. I read reports of people pushing closer to 700 RMS through them with no problems, but I'm not that brave.
 

Stealth

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Do the subs rattle the boat where they are placed?
 

kgower

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TXtraumaRN

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Do the subs rattle the boat where they are placed?
So far, no. But...
a) I haven't had a chance to use it much yet, and
b) there isn't much to rattle in those areas.

Having said that, with them being in closed compartments, it does dampen the bass some.
 

TXtraumaRN

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I have thought about angling my equipment like this, can you share some detail on attachment points et cetera.
I should be putting the wedging blocks in tomorrow. Nothing fancy, just small pieces of wood wrapped in the same carpeting, screwed into the ground. The boards I have everything mounted on are wide enough that they sit angled against the port wall, but there is enough play at the top between the wall and the lip of the storage opening that allows it to be lifted just enough to remove them without unscrewing the wedge blocks.
Originally the plan was to just have them lay flat in that storage, but when I realized they could lay against the wall securely, it freed up a little more space.
I can measure out some dimensions of the boards if you'd like.

Screenshot_20220322-131210_Samsung Internet.jpg
 

Farny

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I should be putting the wedging blocks in tomorrow. Nothing fancy, just small pieces of wood wrapped in the same carpeting, screwed into the ground. The boards I have everything mounted on are wide enough that they sit angled against the port wall, but there is enough play at the top between the wall and the lip of the storage opening that allows it to be lifted just enough to remove them without unscrewing the wedge blocks.
Originally the plan was to just have them lay flat in that storage, but when I realized they could lay against the wall securely, it freed up a little more space.
I can measure out some dimensions of the boards if you'd like.

View attachment 173925
Just a thought on this method- there is actually a lot of room above your amps- any thought of making the boards a bit taller to reclaim a bit more storage.

I like your concept Because storage is so valuable to me (fatsacs, pump, extra towels, tool kit bungies, boat bag shoes, flag pole etc) - that’s why I mounted on the rear wall behind the batteries.

Also - do you have the tops of the boards secured somehow to avoid banging around? Or are the blocks going to prevent that?
 

kgower

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I should be putting the wedging blocks in tomorrow. Nothing fancy, just small pieces of wood wrapped in the same carpeting, screwed into the ground. The boards I have everything mounted on are wide enough that they sit angled against the port wall, but there is enough play at the top between the wall and the lip of the storage opening that allows it to be lifted just enough to remove them without unscrewing the wedge blocks.
Originally the plan was to just have them lay flat in that storage, but when I realized they could lay against the wall securely, it freed up a little more space.
I can measure out some dimensions of the boards if you'd like.

View attachment 173925Yes
Yes, measurements would be great
 

Farny

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TXtraumaRN

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Just a thought on this method- there is actually a lot of room above your amps- any thought of making the boards a bit taller to reclaim a bit more storage.

Also - do you have the tops of the boards secured somehow to avoid banging around? Or are the blocks going to prevent that?
The boards are about as tall as is reasonable. Right now if keep them as-is, the boards are about an inch from the top with a 15-20 degree lean. That allows for them to be removed without the use of any tools (i.e. Removing the wedges). As far as lateral movement at the top... There IS about 1" of lateral play at the top. It's not optimal, but necessary if I want ease of access. I could float another wedge up there if it becomes a problem, but I don't think it will be. You could also make the boards about a half inch to an inch taller to make them touch floor to ceiling, but then it would require tools to remove them if you are going to make them secure. Currently as it sits I have enough room for about 16-20 kilos during my runs, but you know how the cartel operates, they push for 25 kilos 🙄.
(I have all parts łincluding a brand new battery for the Add-a-battery kit, I just haven't found the time to do it yet.)
 

Farny

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The boards are about as tall as is reasonable. Right now if keep them as-is, the boards are about an inch from the top with a 15-20 degree lean. That allows for them to be removed without the use of any tools (i.e. Removing the wedges). As far as lateral movement at the top... There IS about 1" of lateral play at the top. It's not optimal, but necessary if I want ease of access. I could float another wedge up there if it becomes a problem, but I don't think it will be. You could also make the boards about a half inch to an inch taller to make them touch floor to ceiling, but then it would require tools to remove them if you are going to make them secure. Currently as it sits I have enough room for about 16-20 kilos during my runs, but you know how the cartel operates, they push for 25 kilos 🙄.
(I have all parts łincluding a brand new battery for the Add-a-battery kit, I just haven't found the time to do it yet.)
Makes sense. I like the idea of putting something at the top to avoid banging. Conroe gets rough at times. Again looking forward to hearing the punch from your system
 

TXtraumaRN

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Yes, measurements would be great
Here you go brother. The main board is 32"x14" and i also added two 10"(2"x4"'s) on the bottom as feet. The other board(not pictured) is 20" long by 14" wide. Combined they run the span of the storage with about 3" at each end and 6" in between. I don't know that you could do a single piece that spans the entire length because it wouldn't be able to fit angle-wise in through the storage access.
20220329_132755.jpg
 

kgower

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Here you go brother. The main board is 32"x14" and i also added two 10"(2"x4"'s) on the bottom as feet. The other board(not pictured) is 20" long by 14" wide. Combined they run the span of the storage with about 3" at each end and 6" in between. I don't know that you could do a single piece that spans the entire length because it wouldn't be able to fit angle-wise in through the storage access.
View attachment 174523
Much appreciated.
 

TXtraumaRN

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After dragging my feet on doing the second battery install, all is complete. I still have a decent amount of storage space. Thinking about placing plexiglass over the top of the amps that way people can just toss their shoes and stuff in.
20220416_135828.jpg20220416_140014.jpg
 

212s

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After dragging my feet on doing the second battery install, all is complete. I still have a decent amount of storage space. Thinking about placing plexiglass over the top of the amps that way people can just toss their shoes and stuff in.
As long as they have some air space to let them cool above them, it should work great to keep the connections safe. You should get some boots to put over the positive battery terminals in the event someone tosses a metal item in there and it hits the battery posts. Or battery box covers.

I was going to ask what that odd bracket was until I realized you put in a Kicker tube. How do you like the sound with the seat down?
 
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