A few hard learned but good boating lessons

[Ronnie]

I like it @BigAbe75 especially since as located it doesn’t add much if anything to the trailer’s footprint. I may go with a smaller version as the biggest and heaviest thing in there should be a bottle jack (a floor jack would be better but the size makes it a non starter). It’s a next season upgrade for sure unless I decide in the interim to store my trailer stuff in the boat instead.

On a related note I spoke to the trailer repair guy about upgrading from 14” to 15” tires. He advised me to just move from 205s to 215s to get a bigger foot print while avoiding the cost of new rims. I’m on the fence about this but if I see a deal on 15” rims that I can’t pass up I won’t.

 

[Ronnie]

Hey @Ronnie ...Call Orlandi Trailer down in San Jose by Valley Fair Mall. I take my trailers down there every two years for bearing & brake service. They also give the trailer a general look-over for safety. I was totally shocked after 2 years on my old MFI when they replaced the bolts holding the springs on...they were worn about 2/3 way through already. They upgraded the bolts and I never had a problem with them again.

Thanks for the referral but I’m already locked in with pacific trailer, I like them best because they are closest to me. I’ve already put about 150 miles on my disabled trailer so i want to minimize the miles going forward to the minimum it will take to get back to the trailer repair shop.

 

[BigAbe75]

I like it @BigAbe75 especially since as located it doesn’t add much if anything to the trailer’s footprint. I may go with a smaller version as the biggest and heaviest thing in there should be a bottle jack (a floor jack would be better but the size makes it a non starter). It’s a next season upgrade for sure unless I decide in the interim to store my trailer stuff in the boat instead.

That green tote you see in the pic does have a floor jack in it. I had to shop around a bit, but did find one at Home Depot that matched my desired dimensions. As well as my 4way lug wrench, the yellow tool bag, a mini grease gun and a couple mini tubes of grease.

 

[BigAbe75]

I like it @BigAbe75 especially since as located it doesn’t add much if anything to the trailer’s footprint. I may go with a smaller version as the biggest and heaviest thing in there should be a bottle jack (a floor jack would be better but the size makes it a non starter). It’s a next season upgrade for sure unless I decide in the interim to store my trailer stuff in the boat instead.

On a related note I spoke to the trailer repair guy about upgrading from 14” to 15” tires. He advised me to just move from 205s to 215s to get a bigger foot print while avoiding the cost of new rims. I’m on the fence about this but if I see a deal on 15” rims that I can’t pass up I won’t.

Oh, and you’re right. It doesn’t add anything to the footprint as it is inside the width of the boat further back. I really liked my setup, if I could just make whatever modifications to make it water proof.

 

[Ronnie]

Always read your posts Ronnie for years, Did you happen to have a picture of the ratchet straps installed

Here are a few more pics of the current jury rig for anyone who may unfortunately find themselves in the same situation down the road. Again the goal being to raise the axle and spring on the bad side of the trailer up so that they don’t drag while trailering. Also pictured are the 2”x4” studs that were put between the top of the axle and the bottom of the trailer frame to give the remaining wheel more clearance from the fender. My trailer repair guy installed the first one and I put another one in to help me clear the curb in front of my boat storage area. The key with these blocks is to tape them in place and not to make them so big that they don’t allow the suspension to move at all.

 

[BDOne]

Thanks for all of the great information and ideas in this thread. I've been "lucky" so far. A couple of blowouts over the years, but nothing else yet. I can see I need to step up my game on trailering preparedness.

 

[Jebinok]

I carry a Dewalt 20vdc cordless 1/2 inch impact when i travel also.

 

[Ronnie]

To close this out, Pacific Trailer in Fremont, CA just finished repairing my trailer. The total cost was about $1,200 ($250 for the axle, $350 for the brakes, another $100 for miscellaneous parts and roughly $500 for labor including a tip.

The tech, Hoa really did a great job and went above and beyond when he advised me on the phone as I was waiting for a tow truck and by putting a block of wood in damaged area to give the remaining tire more clearance from the fender. He even put new lug nuts on all four rims. He went on to recommend that I stay away from aluminum trailers and rv shops for marine trailer repair.

The kicker though is that this location will be closing at the end of this week so if you want to work with a pacific trailer shop the only remaining option is in Anaheim, CA in Southern, CA.

Here are two pics, the axle is square not round, it is also galvanized like the original axles are/were before I painted them with truck bed liner paint.