a gallon of Oil leaked into hull

[safetydave]

Hi fellow boaters.
My hull is full of injector oil and I can't find the fix.

I have a 2003 Seadoo Sportster LE. I bought it new, that year.
First trip the motor blew. Took 2 hours to tow me back. Called dealer..They told me it was a friday build. Sorry for your luck.
I've had it rebuilt again 6 years ago.
I love this little toy except it has continuous issues but.....it's a 13' boat that gets me up to 60 MPH on the water.
Yesterday I was headed out on the water but first I went to add oil (it's a Bombardier Rotax 947 2-stroke).
My oil reservoir was empty except for 1".
Then I noted all the oil is in the hull. All 9 liters pretty well.
I have searched the entire oil area. No sign of leakage. Reservoir and all connections clean. No oil trails where it could be running.
Even the line that goes down under the engine to the filter appears intact.
I know there is more line to the oil injection entry point but I can't see that area.
I know this boat has to go to a shop to repair. (I'm no handyman, I'm a paramedic)
Any suggestions on how to clean up this mess in my hull?
I's like to do it on the lift because it's an half hour TOW to get it on my trailer.
Long post...Sorry.
Dave

 

[Seadeals]

Sorry for your trouble Dave. What are your plans after you clean out the oil on the lift? It may be better to first add more oil and find the leak. Losing all your oil may have you looking at the tow and trailer no matter what. It would be a lot easier to clean the hull out then (and safer for the environment). It would suck to clean it all up just to have another gallon drain into your freshly cleaned hull. Definitely need to catch the leak in action to know how bad the fix may be (loose line versus cracked block for example).

 

[safetydave]

Sorry for your trouble Dave. What are your plans after you clean out the oil on the lift? It may be better to first add more oil and find the leak. Losing all your oil may have you looking at the tow and trailer no matter what. It would be a lot easier to clean the hull out then (and safer for the environment). It would suck to clean it all up just to have another gallon drain into your freshly cleaned hull. Definitely need to catch the leak in action to know how bad the fix may be (loose line versus cracked block for example).

Very wise advice indeed. The worst thing with these types of traumas is our rash reactions.
I'm on it tomorrow.

 

[safetydave]

To continue this saga....I have a broken brass barb on my tiny oil pump. (The barb the oil line connects to).
It snapped off where it meets the pump.
My mechanic has it out and searched for a week. Said they aren't available NEW anywhere he's searched.
He said he can find a used one on Ebay for @$100. US plus shipping.
He's not a fan of used because it's such an important unit.
I've got it now and my son said he wants to give it a go.
He said his buddy at work is a master welder when it comes to anything, including brass.
He will show it to him and see what he thinks.
Maybe you guys on here have connections for parts?
Please help.
Thank you.

 

[Beachbummer]

Any chance a new barb can be pressed in place? Threaded tube inserted? If they are not made anymore, I agree with your line of thought that repairing yours is likely better than a used one.

 

[safetydave]

I won't know for sure until Buddy gets a peak.
It's such a small pump and getting the broken end of the "pressed in" barb out may present an issue.
I'll keep things posted as they progress.

 

[anmut]

Why don't you just get rid of the oil injection and do a premix instead?

 

[safetydave]

Thanks for the constructive advice Anmut.
No worries.
My son tapped out the broken piece, welded it back together under guidance of his welder friend, pressed it back into place with some JB weld then soldered it in place. I think I'm good to go. Yahoo!

 

[Priceisright]

Anyone else use a bilge tampon?