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A new member with a new project : 2008 Yamaha AR230

kamaro

Active Member
Messages
14
Reaction score
25
Points
32
Location
Qatar
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
Hi guys, I'm a new member to this great community, I already posted a thread in the "welcome" section that has some info about my boat and myself :


In this thread, I will document all the work I do in the boat. In summary, its a 2008 AR230 that I bought used, the owner thought that it needed a major engine overhaul because of low compression, I went a head and took a risk buying it. before doing anything, I took all the plugs off and fogged the cylinders really well with WD40 and turned the engine for few seconds, I repeated that every day for like 3 days.
Today, I downloaded the PDF file of the service manual, and I did the compression test procedure exactly as it was described in the manual, first let the engine idle for around 10 minutes, with a garden hose attached of course, then I turned it off and began taking the measurements, I was surprised that the low compression cylinder came back to 170 psi!, actually I got 170, 165,170,170 for the 1 to 4 cylinders. thats a very good news! .. then all of a sudden, the compression of the 4th cylinder shoot to 250 psi, when I removed the gauge I noticed the gauge tube was full of oil, for some reason the oil got into the cylinder and I also noticed the oil tank was way over filled. I think I over filled the the oil tank by checking it with the engine cold, and that over fill may caused the oil to go past the intake and into the cylinder. I'm not sure about my explanation, its my first time to work on a 4 stroke marine engine (I only worked on 2 strokes in the past). I'm including a youtube link of the engine idling which seems running OK.


My next task will be to change the oil and filter for both engines.
 
Hi guys, I'm a new member to this great community, I already posted a thread in the "welcome" section that has some info about my boat and myself :


In this thread, I will document all the work I do in the boat. In summary, its a 2008 AR230 that I bought used, the owner thought that it needed a major engine overhaul because of low compression, I went a head and took a risk buying it. before doing anything, I took all the plugs off and fogged the cylinders really well with WD40 and turned the engine for few seconds, I repeated that every day for like 3 days.
Today, I downloaded the PDF file of the service manual, and I did the compression test procedure exactly as it was described in the manual, first let the engine idle for around 10 minutes, with a garden hose attached of course, then I turned it off and began taking the measurements, I was surprised that the low compression cylinder came back to 170 psi!, actually I got 170, 165,170,170 for the 1 to 4 cylinders. thats a very good news! .. then all of a sudden, the compression of the 4th cylinder shoot to 250 psi, when I removed the gauge I noticed the gauge tube was full of oil, for some reason the oil got into the cylinder and I also noticed the oil tank was way over filled. I think I over filled the the oil tank by checking it with the engine cold, and that over fill may caused the oil to go past the intake and into the cylinder. I'm not sure about my explanation, its my first time to work on a 4 stroke marine engine (I only worked on 2 strokes in the past). I'm including a youtube link of the engine idling which seems running OK.


My next task will be to change the oil and filter for both engines.
Overfilling is a common occurrence on these engines. It has been shown to rob power.

Awesome compression numbers! Not only are they good on a standalone basis, but they are very balanced from one cylinder to another.
 
If you got a great price, you ended up with a gem! Another testimony how these MR-1 engines are bullet proof. These motors (motor cycle engines) get babied (never red lined) in these boats.

Get the YDS (Yamaha Diagnosis Software) it will give you some confidence regarding the state of the engines. You have some sources here.

I look forward to your updates. Looks like an interesting project! You came to the right place for advise and suggestions.
 
Buy a YDS diagnostic tool to view the ecu's
 
I'll second the YDS diagnostics program. It is well worth the money. For a little extra money, you can get tablets that already have the program installed, which I almost went with, but since I've got an old laptop just sitting around, I went that route. If you haven't yet, look at the model specific forum, and read the list of "commonly known issues" for these boats. They're overall very reliable, but I'd recommend educating yourself on what to look for. One big item that's too cheap and easy to not take care of is the scupper. If you don't have a stainless scupper, change it. Well worth the time and money. And keep up with the cleanout plug maintenance. They're priceless when you need them, and I'd hate to be dead in the water without the ability to remove them.
 
Are there signs of oil spray inside the air filter case?
 
Thanks guys for all your valuable inputs, things that I have ordered so far:

1- YDS interface
2- oil filters
3- steering and reverse cables
4- stainless steel scubber

one thing that I have noticed when I started the engines with the garden hose, there is no water coming from the side port, only water is coming out through the pump, is that normal?

Are there signs of oil spray inside the air filter case?

I didn't notice that, I'll check them tomorrow morning, what does that indicates to?
 
Yes, particularly when you have lower water pressure, very common when running on hose not to have water out of the pissers.

Do you have an oil sucker? If not, you will want one (and to pull off any of that extra oil right away, before it gets onto the air filter, etc.).

Any evidence of frothing in the oil? Another reason for surprise high oil level can be that there is a leak into the oil from cracks in the block (water gets into the oil, causing froth, but also raising the oil level).
 
@kamaro Overfilling with oil is evidenced by overflowing out of the top of the oil tank into the oil separator and up the breather tube connected to the air filter box where it saturates a filter under the throttle bodies.
 
Guys, whats the best and safest method to wash these dirty engines? is it safe to spray them with degreaser them use a pressure washer? .. also I have noticed there is a fuel leak in the starboard engine right at where the hose coming from the tank is connected to it, that makes me feel that I need to replace all the fuel hoses just to be safe, what kind of hose its recommended to be used? I know it should be EFI rated (high pressure) hose, but I'm not sure if there is a marine specs for it.
 
@kamaro Is this the connection? Fuel hose holder The clamp that gets compressed on both sides is a one time use. Often, while still clamped, the hose will get pulled off the tube and then later pushed back on. That stretches the hose and it leaks from then on. The hose is probably long enough to cut off the stretched part and re clamp. That has worked for me.
 
@kamaro Is this the connection? Fuel hose holder The clamp that gets compressed on both sides is a one time use. Often, while still clamped, the hose will get pulled off the tube and then later pushed back on. That stretches the hose and it leaks from then on. The hose is probably long enough to cut off the stretched part and re clamp. That has worked for me.

yes thats it. I will try to cut off 3/4 inch or so of its end to connect it again. But honestly, I get paranoid when ever I see a fuel leak and would rather always to play it safe. thats why I want to replace all the fuel hoses.
 
Wow, my 2008 SX230 looks and runs brand new! Amazing how an abuser can destroy a boat. Good luck with the refresh!
 
Some update with my project :

I started by fixing the fiberglass that was broken in the keel of the boat, a friend who is doing that for a living came to my place to helped me with that, it turned back as it was new, I only paid for the consumables and a nice dinner! , here are before and after pics :

IMG_20210110_152532(1).jpg

IMG_20210116_135002.jpg

IMG_20210118_230427.jpg


Then I started cleaning off the engine bay, a TON of dirt came out! :
IMG_20210122_161209.jpg

IMG_20210203_155559.jpg


Then it was the time to replace the scupper valve with a stainless steel one from Attwood, the original one came out in a very good shape, no signs of any crack, but its a good upgrade anyway, I cut a sheet of 1/8 in aluminum to form a wrench to tighten the new valve, worked like a champ! :
IMG_20210206_123634.jpg

IMG_20210207_165841.jpg


I also replaced both the steering and shift linkages with brand new ones from SBT, I know they are not as good as the OEMs, but thats what I found and hopefully they will serve me good.

The only task that I failed to fulfill is to remove the clean-out plugs, I tried every trick in the book to pull them up with no success, just as the previous owner glued them in!, I even tried pulling them with a floor jack and a strap, but I was affraid I'm going to break the T handle, I also tried removing the 8 screws and left the upper part only with no luck, I can see the aluminum taps were recessed and not engaged to the jet tube, but still it wouldn't budge!
IMG_20210123_150906.jpg
 
How about filling cleanouts with dish soap solution, letting it set for a day or two, and tapping the t-handle gently from above. I always pull them out after boating and let them sit on top the cleanout tray. I also lithium grease them before reinserting them. Of course you know the round button must be depressed to release them.
 
How about filling cleanouts with dish soap solution, letting it set for a day or two, and tapping the t-handle gently from above. I always pull them out after boating and let them sit on top the cleanout tray. I also lithium grease them before reinserting them. Of course you know the round button must be depressed to release them.

I tried soaking them with WD40 everyday for 4 days in a row, and then I drowned them in the WD40 oil and kept them for another few days, no luck!

I'm now thinking about just destroying them by drilling/cutting them out and then get a pair of new ones and call it a day.
 
I have had luck backing my boat up against a tree with a big branch and using a ratchet strap from the tree branch to the clean out plug and getting it out that way.
 
@kamaro Are they locked or unlocked?
 
Have you tried tapping around the perimeter of the plug with a wooden 1x2, for example?
 
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