Advice for setting up a new trailer?

[msavold]

Got a new aluminum trailer (Venture Commander 5600) to replace the painted one we got with our 2012 SX240 that was falling apart thanks to salt water and am soon going to pull the boat off the lift for the winter.

Dealer said "put the boat on and see how it looks" - which seems a little vague!

Would appreciate any advice on setting it up for first use! I know about checking the tongue weight and adjusting the bow stop to suit but I'm a bit lost about the bunks... Not sure about the bunk spacing (I've measured the ones on the current trailer - the new ones are a bit farther apart). The other part that has me baffled are the target bunks. On delivery, they came set as low as possible. On my current trailer, they (roughly) match the top of the "main" bunks so I'm wondering - put the boat on and then adjust them up, adjust them up to the same level as the mains - or something in between?

Here's a picture of the trailer (with target bunks set as from the factory) I lifted from the web - no idea where the pictures I took of mine have gone!

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Betik]

Dealer is kind of right, but it could have been more helpful.

Looks identical to mine just with different stickers lol
I also own a 2012 sx240 double LOL

I can send you a more detailed pictures tomorrow but the bottom line is that you trailer is now set up for an outboard and it will be superheavy on the tongue . You can move your axle very easily and even with the boat loaded . On mine I moved the rear axle infront of the front axle and it balanced the boat right away. Until you move you axle you can move your post way back to balance your boat.

Your rear bunks are probably right it, but I envision your center bunk will have to move a bit.

I am not sure about the material of your bunks; looks fancy. Mine is carpet which is installed myself.

Do you want me to take soMe measurement for you ?

 

[Betik]

 

[Betik]

This what your boat will look Iike with the current axle configuration and properly balanced. What you see here I have transformed it to fit a 24 foot garage.

 

[Betik]

Oops forgot the link

 

[Ratket]

Best to loosen the front bunks so they rock side to side, once you load the boat the front bunks will “ settle into place with the weight of the boat” then synch them down.
I by no means am a professional but it’s what I would do. I would honestly load it on the trailer and slowly pull it out of the water to see where it sits on the rear bunks and start taking measurements and making sure everything looks right, but I’ve screwed enough things up that I don’t mind taking extra time to make sure everything is “ perfect/ or as good as it is going to get” lol

I don’t know how I feel about the rear bunks being vertical, but again that’s prolly just personal preference.

Keep us posted.

 

[msavold]

@Betik thanks! One thing that's obvious is the bow roller is much lower - I figured I had to lower it to suit the dip in the bow of our boats but didn't think it would be quite that far! (Should have measured height on old trailer before getting rid of it!) Would you mind giving me height from trailer frame to roller center bolt when you get a chance? Might not be exact but a good starting point. Also get your point about moving axles - hadn't considered that option before. I think I'll start by pulling the boat with everything as is and see what the numbers look like - maybe even pull the boat with the bow about a foot back of the roller and check tongue weight... Easier to get it up a little farther than push it back! Fancy stuff on bunks is some sort of slippery plastic. Not sure why they'd do that in their high-end model based on people's experience with plastic covered bunks and not crazy about it - thinking of swapping it for carpet but may have to wait until next season's launch at this point.

@Ratket thanks for confirming what I was thinking - the load of the boat will be on the main bunks so "loose" fronts would find their own place. I've also had the same concerns about the rear bunks but... Venture uses flat bunks only on their lightweight (under 3000# load) trailers and vertical on everything else uo to 18,000#/35' boats.

 

[Neutron]

I would rather those upright 4x6 vertical bunks than the crappy 2x6 horizontal bunks that are on my shorlandr
Those wont flex and hard to crack

 

[msavold]

@Neutron - I get your point but picture is a bit deceptive... more like a (true) 2x6 on end. Flex NOT an issue but perhaps at the same time more of a point load than a spread load on the hull?

 

[Betik]

I will measure tomorrow and let you know. Try for the delay crazy busy at home

 

[Betik]

before I forget you have to be real careful because the keep comes without a couple of inches from the most forward crossmember. You know the one that is real close to the post

 

[swatski]

Fancy stuff on bunks is some sort of slippery plastic.

I'm sure you know to keep the winch strap/hook tight on the bow U-bolt when launching with those nice new slippery bunks...


--

 

[msavold]

I'm sure you know to keep the winch strap/hook tight on the bow U-bolt when launching with those nice new slippery bunks...

There's actually a warning printed on them as a caution! I'm curious to see just how slimy they are.

 

[Betik]

The center ( bolt) of the bow roller is at 23.5 from the center of the frame ( no the side aluminum sides). Please notice that my trailer set up a bit different from that video.

Notice also how the keel is 2.5 inches from the frame

 

[Cambo]

The trailer pictured looks like the front bunks are to low and if you try to load it it will drag the keel on the trailer cross frame. Get a tape measure and take measurements off the old trailer and try to match it up before you try the first load. For the last 25 years I have been measuring and designing kitchens its not a kitchen but the concept is the same a tape measure is your friend for this project. For the rear bunks you need to miss the ribs on the bottom of the hull I would load it align it then peel the carpet back take an electric planer and shape the bunk to the hull. This will allow more surface area to support the hull. Galvanized staples can be used to re attach the carpet from the sides of the bunks . Post up some pics of the boat loaded up

 

[Betik]

There is a danger about hiring the crossmember but if you bring the center bunks closes then you will be fine. I can measure mine if you think you want to do that

 

[msavold]

@Cambo I like the plane idea! That was one of my concerns with the vertical vs horizontal bunks - that if not right the whole load could conceivably be on the corner/edge of the bunk rather than spread out across the (relatively small) surface of the bunk. The bunks are already angled in a bit so step 1 will be to load and have a look at it. Fingers crossed... I'm also going to raise the front bunks. I found a picture of the of the old Shoreland'r trailer and the front bunks are at pretty much the height of the back ones.

@Betik thanks for your help and the photos!

Got a plan: Step 1 is I'm going to measure the bunk spacing on the boat lift and then I'm going to head over to the local Yamaha dealer (he's about 20 minutes from here) and measure a trailer with a 240 on it. That should put me *very* close to the right position, I'd think.

 

[Cambo]

If your going to check measurements bring a piece of cardboard and a small level try to make a template of the hull were the back bunk sits on the hull. Reverse it and you can check the opposite side.

If the trailer is sitting level you can determine how much the bunk needs to be shaved by the electric planer, cheap and great tool to have around

 

[msavold]

Alright, boat's on the trailer and I'm not happy.
First of all, made all the adjustments I could and could not stop thinking 'IDIOTS SHOULD NOT HAVE ACCESS TO IMPACT WRENCHES'. Four u-bolts with cross threaded nuts - one per bolt, of course!
Got the main bunks set and actually quite pleased with how the hull is sitting on them. Bow ones were a total FAIL at the first attempt! 3.5"gap between boat and bunks at the front when out of the water, back of front bunks was keeping boat off front of main bunks!
Some quick adjustments at the ramp and it's sitting much better.
BUT...
First load and I could lift the hitch without trying hard! Actually, I'd say almost perfectly balanced! (Yeah, not good.)
Moved the winch and post as far forward as I could (used back bolt holes and it's sitting on the frame now (with spacers under it front and back).
So now, moved boat forward and with a half tank of gas I'm getting about 200# of tongue weight - better but IMO not enough? Thoughts? (PS: boat weight full tank 3298# according to Yamaha, aluminum trailer is 950#, gas (full) 314# for a total of 4562# plus other crap that may be on board.)

 

[msavold]

And here's what I don't really like the look of - trailer recommended according to load (OK, I agree with that - I'm about 1k# below max) and length 'from bow eye to transom' max of 22'
But I don't like the overhang at the back - and I don't know how I can increase tongue weight!
See pics - I think adding fuel may be neutral at best or maybe make things worse because of where the tank is in relation to the axles.

Can the winch be placed with the front u-bolt ahead of where the side frames meet?

I'm thinking I need to call the dealer about replacing with a COM-6000 (Venture Trailers Commander Line Premium Boat Trailers Built for the Long Haul) - but I'll probably have to leave the boat on this trailer through the winter.