AMP suggestions without breaking the bank?

[David Analog]

Okay, here we go with the specification thing again.
A typical unregulated amplifier will produce 25% less power with a 12.6 volt supply than it will at the rated 14.4 volt supply. And the output power continues going down as the supply voltage goes down. You can't get a 14.4 volt supply in a boat. Not even close.
CEA2006 ratings are also taken at one frequency only....1 kHz. You can expect another 10 to 15% drop in power across the entire audio bandwidth.
You can expect another 10% power loss with all channels driven versus being tested one channel at a time.
So you might get 60% of the CEA2006 14.4V @ 1 kHz rated power under real world conditions.
If you are going to live by specs then you should also know a little about the qualifications. Without a little understanding you are simply prey to the manufacturer with the most liberal spec sheet.
Poly Planar would have no idea what the amplifiers really produce. They just know what China tells them they produce. They buy the amplifier from a catalog and slap on their own logo and maybe tool up proprietary end caps.
Then we get to the distortion thing. That's a complete different bag of qualifiers. Testing a Class D analog switching amplifier and getting a true distortion reading is nearly impossible. They can basically rate anything they want and you cannot test it, verify it or dispute it. And there is no governing body to keep these specs honest. In fact, the certifications and birth sheets are created by the importing company, not some independent third party.
So look, the Poly Planar has value. It is a good power per dollar ratio by industry standards. I'll give you no negatives or try to steer you in another direction.
But don't compare it to something like a JL Audio based on such a simple formula of unsubstantiated and misunderstood specs.
A JL Audio XD amplifier, for example, will definitely cost more. And it deserves to cost more. There's also great value in the JL Audio at a much higher price. Why?
More features and versatility on the input section.
All terminations along one side.
Sealed chassis.
Better build quality. Better components.
Class D analog switching at TWICE the speed = more top end bandwidth and significantly lower top end distortion.
Proprietary technology. Domestically engineered by the best in the biz...veterans from the days when Precision Power, Xtant, Phoenix Gold, and Rockford Fosgate where American brands. Not just built to spec good on paper. But to perform good in real world operation.
When independently tested, the JL Audio XD amplifier produced 35% more than its rated output, maintained its 14.4 V rated output even with a 12.6 V supply, exceeding that on the sub channel due to some regulation, and produced 97% of its 1 kHz rating over the entire audio bandwidth. And because the JL Audio will actually meet or exceed spec under all conditions, you can tune the amplifier below the clipping threshold with a simple disc and volt meter, something you cannot do with another brand of amplifier.
And I could go on.
Again, both products have real value and a definite place with consumers. But you just can't compare the two. You are not getting more for less despite the lure of fat specs and low price.

 

[kthrash]

well I guess that settles that on the topic of specs...

With all that said, I still like my RF amps and equipment.. they do what I want, how loud I want..

 

[subysti]

OK @David Analog can I assume you work for JL, you seem to know a lot about the inner workings of Poly Planar and the industry? You don't have a boat listed either, just asking. Also why do you say you cant get 14.4V on a boat? My current 1996 boat gives me 13.8VDC at the fuse block. I'm hoping my new AR240 will give me at least the same.

 

[David Analog]

subysti,
Nope, I do not work for JL Audio. Nor have I ever. I did work in the consumer electronics industry for many years and now I am retired for the past several years. But I do know the industry very well and remain involved as a hobby.
A brand new fully charged lead acid battery rests at 12.7 volts once any charging voltage has dissipated, such as your stators or a shore charger. A stator will generate 13.8 volts just as you stated. But that is close to the limit for chargers, stators and alternators. You are measuring the static voltage at the fuse block without a substantial load, such as the amplifier at full power. To get a true reading related to your amplifier performance you would measure the voltage across the amplifier primary terminals while driving the amplifier, a few other electrical components and placing the supply under load. You will see that voltage sag as current consumption increases. Once you have enough of a load to collectively draw the 30 amps or so that is equal to your twin stator outputs then you will see that voltage drop accordingly to around the battery level. So a static voltage measurement without much of a load really isn't an indication of what an amplifier will get when you are railing on it. Your amplifier will never get a 14.4 volt supply.
Back to the subject of brands....let me reiterate. The Poly Planar, or Rockford Fosgate, or JL Audio and so on and so on may all be good products. There is absolutely zero reason to avoid any of those brands mentioned here. And budget may dictate a preference for any one of them. That's all good. My point is there is a lot more to comparing value than a simple formula of specs divided by price. Specs are not always qualified, or accurate, or even relevant to the real world performance. Plus there are many other qualities that determine performance and value beyond a few specs in an on-line brochure. Historically there may be little to no difference between the specs of the cheapest to the most expensive in anything. Home electronics, cars, you name it. A $200 Boss amplifier may have remarkably better specs than a $1000 Audison amplifier. Yet based on performance it may be the Boss amplifier that is over-priced.