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Any midwest concrete folks out there... Question?

GiddYupJoe

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I know nothing about replacing my blacktop driveway from 1974 with nice new concrete... Just got a quote and it includes 4000PSI 4" fiber reinforced concrete and my Dad is telling me to spend the extra and find someone that will do rebar instead of fiber. Not that I don't trust my Dad... but is it worth the extra cost and necessary in Ohio? Quote is attached just for reference on what is all included. Don't need a comment on price as I understand that that could vary from market to market. More worried about what I am getting. Also... saw cut vs trawled joints... any opinions on that?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Liveto99

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Blacktop lasted 45 years why don’t you just redo it. Throw a topcoat on it they can bring out the sides if you want it wider, save 10 grand. In theory Fiber works great. In reality if you look at driveways that have been in for 20 years number three rebar is the best way to go. I know you have heard this before, listen to your dad. Roll out wire mesh works also but rebar is definitely the way to go for longevity. 5” thick
 

Dixie Highway

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Another consideration is taxes. In many states concrete square footage adds to your tax bill. Asphalt is not considered a “permanent” construction, where concrete is.
 

Looper7

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Had a driveway done with fiberfill and it was terrible my new concrete guy who has done a patio and garage floor told me fiberfill is more for controlling shrinkage rebar is way better
 

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Agree, rebar is the way to go.
 

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@Speedling

We have had it done few years back, finished in aggregate, I don't think we have had rebar done, I must say your estimate looks very reassonable! pricewise. But I'm wanting to hear "WWSD" - what would @Speedling do.

--
 

GiddYupJoe

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Blacktop lasted 45 years why don’t you just redo it. Throw a topcoat on it they can bring out the sides if you want it wider, save 10 grand. In theory Fiber works great. In reality if you look at driveways that have been in for 20 years number three rebar is the best way to go. I know you have heard this before, listen to your dad. Roll out wire mesh works also but rebar is definitely the way to go for longevity. 5” thick
Blacktop lasted 45 years why don’t you just redo it
That was the first thought... but we have decided to stay in this house for the long haul and I really like the look of a concrete driveway. And you are right... I should always listen to dad! But you all are a close second!

Another consideration is taxes. In many states concrete square footage adds to your tax bill. Asphalt is not considered a “permanent” construction, where concrete is.
Never thought of that. I will look in Ohio but I have never heard that before.

@Speedling

We have had it done few years back, finished in aggregate, I don't think we have had rebar done, I must say your estimate looks very reassonable! pricewise. But I'm wanting to hear "WWSD" - what would @Speedling do.

--
Thanks for tagging @Speedling I am assuming he will say the same as everyone else but am curious...
 

Wayloncle

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I have no advice but am curious to know how long your driveway is?
 

Speedling

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@Speedling

We have had it done few years back, finished in aggregate, I don't think we have had rebar done, I must say your estimate looks very reassonable! pricewise. But I'm wanting to hear "WWSD" - what would @Speedling do.

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Rebar>mesh>fibers. You can do fibers over mesh or rebar as well.
I actually work in masonry not concrete. The base is far more important than what you choose to go over it. Concrete, blacktop, or my favorite, pavers, in our climates 12" base is absolute minimum. Very much depends on your ground under it as well.
You almost want to remove, cut, and do gravel and drive on it for a year before you keep going but then you risk contamination of the gravel. But then you know that the weight of your vehicle won't be causing dips in the blacktop or pavers down the road.
Concrete, the thicker the better obviously aa well.
Concrete done right is usually expensive enough to force people to do blacktop.
Pavers need to be a good quality like unilock and if it wvwr shifts or moves is easy enough to lift a brick and sprinkle a touch of crushed under it. Diy maintenance instead of ripping it all out. After it geta really bad you pull paver, touch up and reinstall.
Mesh with fibers is probably a good middle ground.
 

Liveto99

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Look into stamped concrete, some are out of this world looking like cobblestones or bricks.
 

Speedling

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Look into stamped concrete, some are out of this world looking like cobblestones or bricks.
True! We have a company by us that does only high end stamped and they put pictures on Facebook that are unreal!
 

GiddYupJoe

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BrentEB

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Do it right! Here u go like this. View attachment 105099
Where are the trucks? Haha
A Legion will knock that driveway out in a few hours. They'll take your livestock, though.

A great thread. I've never had to explore different roadbeds before. Some years ago I heard of using prestressed concrete panels, but the beds under had to be perfect.
 
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ACRDSPORT14

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I just did my driveway that is 33' x 68' . I didn't have to tear anything out, and i formed it, which was super easy, I compacted it my self too. The base had been driven on for 4 years, and was put in knowing i would concrete it someday. I had lots of gravel put in when I built the house.

I Paid 2800 for labor and 4800 for concrete, 40 yards worth. The guy came back the next day and saw cut it. I had approx. 350$ in metal stakes and wood 2x6's. 300$ in sealer. Your quote is for a little under 20 yards of concrete. I only used fiber in my driveway. No rebar into existing garage. My subbase isn't going anywhere it's 6-7 inches of concrete at the garage entrance and 5-6 inches everywhere else.

I got quotes for 7k-9.5k for blacktop, i got 4 quotes. I went to the semi diy route with concrete and costs were reasonable for the sq footage I needed done.

Seems like the going rate is 6-8$ a sq. ft. for concrete. You need to remove the existing blacktop too.
 
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