Anyone make and sell parts with a 3D Printer?

[1BadTundra]

I need a pair of saddles made to finish a mount for my light bar to my tower... Does anyone have a 3D printer to make these?

 

[zipper]

I know @Bruce has one and makes steering bushings for sale.

 

[Beachbummer]

That's not a big part. shipping will be more expensive than the part. For quick and easy idea of price, you can make your shape in TinkerCAD and check on

https://www.fiverr.com/categories/graphics-design/product-design-services/prototyping-3d-printing

to get an idea of what an arm's length transaction will do.

Where are you located? Anyone with a 3d printer could help you, but the part needs to get to you.

Part color can be achieved by painting, but best if the material used already matches your desired color. I have White and Black on hand on PETG which is reasonably sturdy material for outside use, and can be coated with a UV proofing spray.

 

[Beachbummer]

Here's something in line with what you are looking for:
3D design Light Bar Frame | Tinkercad

Just a few minutes of tinkering.

 

[2kwik4u]

Xometry can print and ship you anything you want. They're reasonable and I've worked with them in the past. They'll even make you an aluminum one and anodize it black if you want. Cost a little more, but would look baller and last much longer than a 3D printed piece.

www.xometry.com

Here's what your part looks like:

I added 0.030 flats on the tips of your radius there. Will help with manufacturing, and you don't want those sharp edges anyway.


STEP file you'll need for quoting through Xometry is attached.

 

[Wake_Dude]

Don't forget to do a radius compensation in your drawing, if not already done so. In other words, it is not wise to make your bracket's radius the EXACT same as the tower's. It probably won't fit correctly, depending on the tolerances of the printed or machined part. If that bracket is going directly on the tower with no gasket in between, I would oversize the radius by 0.005-0.010. If you are running a rubber gasket or such in between, the radius will definitely need to be compensated for as well. I.e. if you are running 0.062" thick rubber between the bracket and tower, the radius on the bracket should be at least 1.012. As a machinist, I have to constantly have the engineers fix their drawings because they can't understand this simple concept.

 

[Bruce]

@1BadTundra, what color are you wanting?

 

[2kwik4u]

Don't forget to do a radius compensation in your drawing, if not already done so. In other words, it is not wise to make your bracket's radius the EXACT same as the tower's. It probably won't fit correctly, depending on the tolerances of the printed or machined part. If that bracket is going directly on the tower with no gasket in between, I would oversize the radius by 0.005-0.010. If you are running a rubber gasket or such in between, the radius will definitely need to be compensated for as well. I.e. if you are running 0.062" thick rubber between the bracket and tower, the radius on the bracket should be at least 1.012. As a machinist, I have to constantly have the engineers fix their drawings because they can't understand this simple concept.

As an engineer, I'm curious why you're OVER sizing the radius instead of UNDER sizing it. Genuine question, not being a dick.

In theory you never get perfect line to line contact. I get that.

Over sizing makes a single line contact, under sizing gives two lines of contact. Assuming rigid (metal) components of sufficient strength.

I would much rather have two lines of contact as compared to one line of contact. If the materials are not of the same relative stiffness, then one will deform slightly. If you are undersized, then the "legs" will flex and give the theoretical line contact you want.

 

[Bruce]

PETG will flex enough to allow for an exact or slightly undersized radius. For example this head rest clamp mount is undersized by 1mm.



PLA which is the most common 3D printing material might crack if undersized but also would not hold up to the sun exposure.

 

[oramac]

For 3D printing, consider checking with your local public library or any community makers spaces. Our public library has a 3D printer for member use.

 

[Wake_Dude]

As an engineer, I'm curious why you're OVER sizing the radius instead of UNDER sizing it. Genuine question, not being a dick.

In theory you never get perfect line to line contact. I get that.

Over sizing makes a single line contact, under sizing gives two lines of contact. Assuming rigid (metal) components of sufficient strength.

I would much rather have two lines of contact as compared to one line of contact. If the materials are not of the same relative stiffness, then one will deform slightly. If you are undersized, then the "legs" will flex and give the theoretical line contact you want.

Drill and ream a 0.250 hole, then try to put a ground 0.250 dowel pin in it. Did it go in easy? More likely a press fit. Why? Because it was "on size". Clamping scenarios are the same when working on Radii. This is why they are oversized slightly. Just like dowel pins are slightly undersized or holes are reamed slightly oversized. Notice I said 0.005-0.010 over? That isn't even noticeable (5 to 10 thousandths). Just enough to let it slip on. Another reason to do this is so you don't mar the shit out of your tower tubing when tightening (especially if using a metal part). For this application, you would never undersize the bracket. When the bracket is tightened, it will flex that tiny amount and give 100% contact. In your example of on size, or undersize, the more the part is tightened, the more surface area is lost at the open ends of the bracket.

 

[Wake_Dude]

OP, if you'd prefer aluminum and you are willing to wait 1-2 weeks, I have recently brought anodizing in house and am awaiting a new tank and dye for black anodizing (if that's the color you want). I currently have blues and grey on hand. If no color wanted, throw some solid dimensions at me, and I could send these brackets to you with a raw machined look much quicker. If interested, let me know and I'll work up a figure for you.

A sample of some anodized parts I just shipped to a custom boat builder:

 

[1BadTundra]

Xometry can print and ship you anything you want. They're reasonable and I've worked with them in the past. They'll even make you an aluminum one and anodize it black if you want. Cost a little more, but would look baller and last much longer than a 3D printed piece.

www.xometry.com

Here's what your part looks like:

I added 0.030 flats on the tips of your radius there. Will help with manufacturing, and you don't want those sharp edges anyway.
View attachment 176700

STEP file you'll need for quoting through Xometry is attached.

Thank you, this is awesome!!

 

[1BadTundra]

@1BadTundra, what color are you wanting?

Either Black or blue

 

[1BadTundra]

OP, if you'd prefer aluminum and you are willing to wait 1-2 weeks, I have recently brought anodizing in house and am awaiting a new tank and dye for black anodizing (if that's the color you want). I currently have blues and grey on hand. If no color wanted, throw some solid dimensions at me, and I could send these brackets to you with a raw machined look much quicker. If interested, let me know and I'll work up a figure for you.

A sample of some anodized parts I just shipped to a custom boat builder:

View attachment 176724

I appreciate that... Machine work and aluminum may be a bit expensive for just 2 filler pieces like these.

 

[1BadTundra]

For 3D printing, consider checking with your local public library or any community makers spaces. Our public library has a 3D printer for member use.

Thanks, I didn't even think of that.

 

[1BadTundra]

Here's something in line with what you are looking for:
3D design Light Bar Frame | Tinkercad

Just a few minutes of tinkering.

Yea, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I didn't know there was a place that had a 3D print database like this.

 

[Bruce]

Either Black or blue

How many do you need?

This has a 1.2 x 1 inch rectangular base with a 0.25 inch thickness below the 1.9 inch radius. Printed out of PETG it will hold up to the sun and have enough flexibility to match the bar if it needs to.

I have black and blue PETG and could mail them on Monday.

 

[1BadTundra]

That would be awesome!!! I sure appreciate that. I need 2 of these. I'd like them in black (tough decision). if you have enough material. I'll PM you..
Can the center hole accommodate an 8mm bolt?

 

[Beachbummer]

Maybe room for the screw head so it does not protrude? Worst case heat the screw and it will butter in... Just a thought!